lm scared

l have removed the balancer pulley bolt using the motorcarman method with a 4' extension.

lve cleaned out the M8 threads with a tap.

The concern i have is with the ''button'' in my universal puller, because its a cone im worried it may flare the end of the crank. ls this Ok to use? Would it be better to find a socket or something that is just smaller that the ID of the crank?

Sorry about the ''scale '' object.




Also, what about a little bit of blue spanner to help it out?

Thanks ,

 

Put another way, which face is it safe to apply pressure too, 1 or 2?

Thanks

 

The collar (split cone) will follow the damper for a bit. Then you SMACK the assy and the damper will dislodge from the tapered collar.
The part you push against is 2. (the end of the crankshaft)

 

If you can find a socket that will sit right on top of the end of the crank, then run that pointy cone into the hole on the ratchet receiving end of the socket that would cancel the possibility of the cone damaging the threads at the outermost section of the crank - makes sense!!!! Honestly, I think yours is a GREAT observation and careful step. Lol, wish i was as thoughtful. I have a habit of making work for myself for by NOT paying attention like you have. jus say'n

 

OR get a M8 8.8 bolt that is just a bit longer than the crankshaft threads are deep so that the bolt hits the bottom of the crank snout. Grind the threads off just enough so the bolt slides into the hole. Used this to for the puller point to push against. Also helps to drill a shallow hole in the bolt head to give the puller point something to set into.

I have used this many times.

 

One other thing I forgot to mention.

Be very careful about how deeply you drive/turn the bolts into the threaded holes in the damper. If not careful and not aware, the bolts can and will thread thru and poke right thru the thin aluminum of the timing belt/chain cover. That ain't no fun... The aluminum of the large cover plate is amazingly fragile if mishandled. And, as tempting as it might be, do not put anything between the balancer and the TChain cover and try to 'pry' the balancer to give it a nudge off the crank using the plate as the pry/lever point. That can crack the TChain cover plate as well. Ask me how I know...lol...

Omg these cars.

 

Thanks for the details MCM thats really helpful. Without wanting to come across as rude i ive seen you post that PDF you have kindly posted many times. The problem is unless you actually HAVE the adapter, its pretty useless, no dims, no indication of what face is safe and whats not

 

..Thats very kind, but its only smart if it works, which so far it hasn't. All ive managed to do so far is wreak one of the supplied (garbage) bolts im sure somethings not right.

lve found a long socket with a midway taper to a smaller dim which now sits, im assuming a little like the legendary ''button'', im hopeing that will do it. But thats for tomorrow. Or the next day, may have to leave it alone, at the end of the day i was leaning over it with a pry bar looking for safe places to leaver against about to get violent.

 

............................i have a couple of your escapades bookmarked, one i remembered stopped me pry bar in hand

 

Thanks for that Lanny
Funny enough i was thinking along those lines at the end of the day, i found this one i have to double check that this one is long enough to bottom out. Drilling a pilot hole is a grand idea!

 

HEAT!!

In the end the only thing that got it off was a fair amount of heat. With the pulley under tension apply heat until you see it creep forward slightly, then its plain sailing. l believe if you are tearing up bolts you are either binding or you are better off applying the blue spanner.

.........................took longer to get that off than the rest of the work to get to the heads

 

It is a pain... But sometimes there's nothing to fear but fear itself... The hardened steel used to craft those cranks would never mushroom out as you suggested in the first post. Then, I think if you took that pointy bit that's to fit in the end hole of the crank I'm pretty sure it would never reach the threads to do damage. If you look at the crank bolt (from memory) I don't think it's threaded to the end, I think the section closest to the bolt head is blank, meaning the threads start fairly deep into the shaft... Now on to the scary note,,,,

Many dampers (not sure about the xk8) have a vulcanized rubber sleeve that is essentially GLUED to the inner bolted section and the outer ribbed section the belt rides on. It doesn't like heat,,, not the kind produced by a torch, map or propane... Then, there is a seal, usually a resin (I could be wrong about the composite) cloth-ish combination or, rubber or silicone. Also doesn't like heat much. I am not sure about the inner crank seal but there is an outer most seal (replace it!!!) that fits between the crank shaft and the crank aluminum cast timing chain cover. Hopefully MCM will read this and prove me all kinds of wrong on these points, but heat may not be your friend here...

The way he instructed was/is spot on. As the balancer pulls even the smallest amount forward a good crack with a hammer should send the balancer BACK towards the engine thus weakening/decompressing the cone pull pinch and separating the cone and the pully.

How hot did you get it and what part did you apply most of the heat to? Just wondering

 

l wrote a 4 paragraph in depth reply and realized if i have created that much confusion in this post it must be my style of writing that makes me appear a idiot so that got binned.

Please dont judge me by your own (mechanical) measure im not the one winding bolts through cases or think they are suitable for leverage . Dont confuse my asking questions with stupidity im pushing sixty been turning spanners since i could walk and own around 40 cars bikes tractors etc that all work, we Ok mostly most of the time some of its 100 years old +and i loath damage due to being too proud to ask. l will endeavor to change my style of writing as im obviously coming across a little half assed, apologies, i had a little to much on my mind to get temp readings for the post.

What exactly do you think i used.......................do you think i attacked it with a cutting torch dayum.

 

Good Morning, Brother...

Hey Man. If I came off as rude, arrogant or like a know it all, I'm sorry. Really, I apologise. It wasn't my intention... Sometimes, writing on my lil phone, I just jibber jabber about some of the first things that pop into my mind. I need to be more careful. I know how it can be when I am on the receiving end of wise-***-ery... I don't like it and need to remember others don't either.

I say great work and glad ya got her done...!
Be well and respect,
Jay

 

lts all good, the only i do this is to try and fill the gaps in info i cannot find.

For future reference. here is a picture of the balancer and blue spanner. You can see where the localized heat was applied. How hot, shaft tip not hot enough to burn you but too hot to hold for more than a couple of seconds. Balancer, you could handle the back. Theres a big ole mass of metal there the heat transfers very quickly

Think about you post, in order to generate the kind of heat you are talking about waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay before you even start to bother any rubber in the balancer due to the slots the cover seal is on FIRE lol, it would puking out all kinds of smoke, now, if you still carry on then well you are doomed.

Please PLEASE revisit your philosophies on cranks and hardening especially the threads, i say this with the greatest respect and only because ive read enough of your posts to know that you like me are a bit attached to your machines.