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Peter_of_Australia
August 13, 2022
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New gasket.
New gasket.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:49 Peter_of_A
Clean...
Clean...
0 2023/08/17 06:41:47 Peter_of_A
Dirty...
Dirty...
0 2023/08/17 06:41:45 Peter_of_A
I simple drove those 2 very large bolts from the compressor back in - and the sump was held in the prefect position to get a "hair"-cut... - a cylinder-cut.
I simple drove those 2 very large bolts from the compressor back in - and the sump was held in the prefect position to get a "hair"-cut... - a cylinder-cut.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:42 Peter_of_A
But this was not the end of all dramas: The sump was now perfectly loose, but it did not fall out - it was wedged in between transmission and subframe. That utterly useless downward cylinder extension had to go (1mm cutting disk, plus sanding disc to create a smooth edge...
But this was not the end of all dramas: The sump was now perfectly loose, but it did not fall out - it was wedged in between transmission and subframe. That utterly useless downward cylinder extension had to go (1mm cutting disk, plus sanding disc to create a smooth edge...
0 2023/08/17 06:41:40 Peter_of_A
Thus, I could drill not that perfect hole, and it suited my 13mm socket perfectly and I removed the hidden bolt without any more dramas.
Thus, I could drill not that perfect hole, and it suited my 13mm socket perfectly and I removed the hidden bolt without any more dramas.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:38 Peter_of_A
Hence, I went back and bought the 17mm hole saw. I would have bought a M12 1.25 pitch bolt with it, but the hardware-shop had only 1.5 pitch. But as I had to "loose" most of the thread anyway (to fit it thru the hole saw, the short section of pitch 1.5 did the trick as well. I then stiffed a bit of aluminium pipe (a cut off from an old TV antenna) over the bolt - it fitted perfectly and the outer diameter of the alu-pipe was 12.5mm - perfect. Note all the aluminium bits on the ground! Make sure
Hence, I went back and bought the 17mm hole saw. I would have bought a M12 1.25 pitch bolt with it, but the hardware-shop had only 1.5 pitch. But as I had to "loose" most of the thread anyway (to fit it thru the hole saw, the short section of pitch 1.5 did the trick as well. I then stiffed a bit of aluminium pipe (a cut off from an old TV antenna) over the bolt - it fitted perfectly and the outer diameter of the alu-pipe was 12.5mm - perfect. Note all the aluminium bits on the ground! Make sure
0 2023/08/17 06:41:35 Peter_of_A
Then I ran out of bigger drill bits and I had to realize that you can't just walk into a hardware shop hoping to find a 18mm drill bit. But I did find 17 and 19mm hole saws. Initially I thought, 17mm would be too small and I bought the 19mm bit: As my hole was already 12.5mm the normal auger for it with the little pilot drill bit would not have help me. But when I tried to drill that hole I was afraid that the hole would get too bit and possibly damage the transfer box...
Then I ran out of bigger drill bits and I had to realize that you can't just walk into a hardware shop hoping to find a 18mm drill bit. But I did find 17 and 19mm hole saws. Initially I thought, 17mm would be too small and I bought the 19mm bit: As my hole was already 12.5mm the normal auger for it with the little pilot drill bit would not have help me. But when I tried to drill that hole I was afraid that the hole would get too bit and possibly damage the transfer box...
0 2023/08/17 06:41:33 Peter_of_A
REMOVE that one massive bolt that attaches the transfer box, where the hidden bolt is under. - Without thinking it thru, how I would drill a 17mm hole, I just started with what I had. First - VERY IMPORTANT - mark the spot, where you want to drill. Mark twice, drill once and not mark once and drill twice. That way I positioned the first little hole with my "pilot drill" right bang centre, followed by 10mm and 12.5mm drill bits.
REMOVE that one massive bolt that attaches the transfer box, where the hidden bolt is under. - Without thinking it thru, how I would drill a 17mm hole, I just started with what I had. First - VERY IMPORTANT - mark the spot, where you want to drill. Mark twice, drill once and not mark once and drill twice. That way I positioned the first little hole with my "pilot drill" right bang centre, followed by 10mm and 12.5mm drill bits.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:31 Peter_of_A
SO I need a socket size 13mm to remove that hidden bolt. Obviously I want to drill a hole as small as possible. Note that 13mm sockets are definitely not all the same. Find one with the smallest outer diameter - that would be one with an outer diameter of just shy of 17mm.
SO I need a socket size 13mm to remove that hidden bolt. Obviously I want to drill a hole as small as possible. Note that 13mm sockets are definitely not all the same. Find one with the smallest outer diameter - that would be one with an outer diameter of just shy of 17mm.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:29 Peter_of_A
...simply turn the bracket upwards to get it out of the way.
...simply turn the bracket upwards to get it out of the way.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:26 Peter_of_A
Remove that bracket on from the catalyst. On its big bolt on the top simply remove the nut only and then...
Remove that bracket on from the catalyst. On its big bolt on the top simply remove the nut only and then...
0 2023/08/17 06:41:24 Peter_of_A
Remove that bracket.
Remove that bracket.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:21 Peter_of_A
Apart from that silly bolt - these are the items on the to do list: Remove extra long bolts that fix the compressor to the sump - and note that the 2 bolt fixing the sump upwards next to those very long bolts are also quite a bit longer than all the other bolts fixing the sump upwards.
Apart from that silly bolt - these are the items on the to do list: Remove extra long bolts that fix the compressor to the sump - and note that the 2 bolt fixing the sump upwards next to those very long bolts are also quite a bit longer than all the other bolts fixing the sump upwards.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:19 Peter_of_A
That is what all the hype is about that bolt, which is that hidden (under the transfer box) that it is hardly visible. There is something called a "distributor wrench" - interesting tool, but I found it only in size 9/16 inch and not 13mm - not that that would have made any difference, because there is just no room there at all to rotate this tool at all.
That is what all the hype is about that bolt, which is that hidden (under the transfer box) that it is hardly visible. There is something called a "distributor wrench" - interesting tool, but I found it only in size 9/16 inch and not 13mm - not that that would have made any difference, because there is just no room there at all to rotate this tool at all.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:17 Peter_of_A
Exhaust section removed.
Exhaust section removed.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:14 Peter_of_A
That section then can be removed by lowering it on it's end facing the rear, the pull it off the catalyst.
That section then can be removed by lowering it on it's end facing the rear, the pull it off the catalyst.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:11 Peter_of_A
And two more nuts on the other end of that exhaust section.
And two more nuts on the other end of that exhaust section.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:07 Peter_of_A
First you need to get a section of the exhaust out of the way: The short bit which attaches to the front catalyst - open the nut on that clamp.
First you need to get a section of the exhaust out of the way: The short bit which attaches to the front catalyst - open the nut on that clamp.
0 2023/08/17 06:41:04 Peter_of_A
The rubber in the bigger bush is broken... I need to fix this somehow....
The rubber in the bigger bush is broken... I need to fix this somehow....
0 2023/08/14 22:12:49 Peter_of_A
0 2023/08/14 15:54:10 Peter_of_A
This is what you find, if you search for a "valve core remover", e.g. in ebay. It costs less than AU$2.
This is what you find, if you search for a "valve core remover", e.g. in ebay. It costs less than AU$2.
0 2023/08/12 15:58:41 Peter_of_A
0 2023/08/12 03:22:12 Peter_of_A
0 2023/08/12 03:22:08 Peter_of_A
Thus spoiler alert: This is what the kit for the rear calipers looks like (I will write a DIY guide about it).
Thus spoiler alert: This is what the kit for the rear calipers looks like (I will write a DIY guide about it).
0 2023/08/11 16:35:14 Peter_of_A
And right again.
And right again.
0 2023/08/11 06:22:02 Peter_of_A
...thus this would be the one one the right.
...thus this would be the one one the right.
0 2023/08/11 06:21:59 Peter_of_A
I think this was the caliper on the left.
I think this was the caliper on the left.
0 2023/08/11 06:21:56 Peter_of_A
That's what the actual ELV/ESL looks like on a Jaguar S-Type.
That's what the actual ELV/ESL looks like on a Jaguar S-Type.
0 2023/08/08 15:50:20 Peter_of_A
That's where the ELV/ESL is located on a Jaguar S-Type.
That's where the ELV/ESL is located on a Jaguar S-Type.
0 2023/08/08 15:50:17 Peter_of_A
That's what a ELV/ESL looks like on a Mercedes.
That's what a ELV/ESL looks like on a Mercedes.
0 2023/08/08 15:50:15 Peter_of_A
Thus, if I cannot make the pin on the wire narrower, I have to make pin 15 of the octopus a bit bigger in diameter. I heated up a soldering ion and each time before I used it to apply a tiny bit of solder onto that pin 15
Thus, if I cannot make the pin on the wire narrower, I have to make pin 15 of the octopus a bit bigger in diameter. I heated up a soldering ion and each time before I used it to apply a tiny bit of solder onto that pin 15
0 2023/08/06 05:10:12 Peter_of_A
With that connector-pin pushed out, I could connect it now one its own to its opposing pin in the black connector-base of the ABS-unit (octopus). Purpose of that was, to get a feeling for how it sits on that pin - and it was very loose. Trying to bend that pin on the wire was a no go.
With that connector-pin pushed out, I could connect it now one its own to its opposing pin in the black connector-base of the ABS-unit (octopus). Purpose of that was, to get a feeling for how it sits on that pin - and it was very loose. Trying to bend that pin on the wire was a no go.
0 2023/08/06 05:10:08 Peter_of_A
I use here the needle on my multimeter-"feeler" to push back the blue tiny latch that holds the hollow connector-pin in position 15 and I press with a tiny screwdriver against that connector-pin to push it out.
I use here the needle on my multimeter-"feeler" to push back the blue tiny latch that holds the hollow connector-pin in position 15 and I press with a tiny screwdriver against that connector-pin to push it out.
0 2023/08/06 05:10:06 Peter_of_A
The black back cover also comes off very easy after pushing in the two latches with a very small screwdriver.
The black back cover also comes off very easy after pushing in the two latches with a very small screwdriver.
0 2023/08/06 05:10:04 Peter_of_A
Having traveled now that deep into CRAZY-LAND, I just proceeded one step further: Taking the big blue connector apart: That purple cover lifts off quite easily when poking with a very small screwdriver into those 3 latches with the black clips. The front right speed sensor connects to pin 15 and pin 16.
Having traveled now that deep into CRAZY-LAND, I just proceeded one step further: Taking the big blue connector apart: That purple cover lifts off quite easily when poking with a very small screwdriver into those 3 latches with the black clips. The front right speed sensor connects to pin 15 and pin 16.
0 2023/08/06 05:10:01 Peter_of_A
Perfect contact, as you can see...
Perfect contact, as you can see...
0 2023/08/06 05:09:58 Peter_of_A
To be able to measure and confirm, where the wire goes, I taped a needle to the red measuring end of the multimeter, which stuck nicely in the connector. Hence, questionable red-brown wire replaced... AND ABS PARTY LOIGHT Again after 2k's....
To be able to measure and confirm, where the wire goes, I taped a needle to the red measuring end of the multimeter, which stuck nicely in the connector. Hence, questionable red-brown wire replaced... AND ABS PARTY LOIGHT Again after 2k's....
0 2023/08/06 05:09:54 Peter_of_A
Next drastic measure: bypassing red/brown wire from where the connector was before to just before the big blue connector (I measured and I confirmed in the electric diagram, that red brown wire goes to pin 15 in the big blue connector)
Next drastic measure: bypassing red/brown wire from where the connector was before to just before the big blue connector (I measured and I confirmed in the electric diagram, that red brown wire goes to pin 15 in the big blue connector)
0 2023/08/06 05:09:52 Peter_of_A
I gave that connector the boot, i.e. I kicked it out and I soldered in 2 bits of wire of the same length to replace it... Guess what: Good for another 2k's until the ABS light went into party-mode again... BTW: Whenever I fixed it, I confirmed that there are those 600-700 Ohms on the connector to the speed-sensor / and whenever the ABS light was back in party-mode, there was again unlimited resistance on that same connector. So I knew I was digging at the right spot, but somehow I was missing th
I gave that connector the boot, i.e. I kicked it out and I soldered in 2 bits of wire of the same length to replace it... Guess what: Good for another 2k's until the ABS light went into party-mode again... BTW: Whenever I fixed it, I confirmed that there are those 600-700 Ohms on the connector to the speed-sensor / and whenever the ABS light was back in party-mode, there was again unlimited resistance on that same connector. So I knew I was digging at the right spot, but somehow I was missing th
0 2023/08/06 05:09:49 Peter_of_A
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