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The CD-Changer in my S-Type is in the boot on the left. It is blocking proper access to the "dust flaps" (seen here behind the aperture). Hence, I used a bit of wire (the arrow points at it) to guide a thin bit of electric cable past those dust flaps. A fairly thin cable does not disturb those dust flaps too much. If the cable is too thick, it holds the flaps open and you'd get more dust into the boot.
The CD-Changer in my S-Type is in the boot on the left. It is blocking proper access to the "dust flaps" (seen here behind the aperture). Hence, I used a bit of wire (the arrow points at it) to guide a thin bit of electric cable past those dust flaps. A fairly thin cable does not disturb those dust flaps too much. If the cable is too thick, it holds the flaps open and you'd get more dust into the boot.
0 2023/09/11 00:30:20
SO this is the thin cable fed thru the dust flaps. I soldered the cable into the "T10" connector of the side indicators and then covered this with shrink tube.
SO this is the thin cable fed thru the dust flaps. I soldered the cable into the "T10" connector of the side indicators and then covered this with shrink tube.
0 2023/09/11 00:30:22
Matching bolt & nut for the 5mm hole.
Matching bolt & nut for the 5mm hole.
0 2023/09/11 00:30:24
Due to the extremely restricted space behind the bumper on my left rear (this is because of the CD changer), I had to come up with an idea of how to hold the nut in position while I insert the bolt: See above: As there is not enough space to hold the nut with 2 fingers, I taped the nut to ONE finger. That worked out alright. ON the right rear there is more space.
Due to the extremely restricted space behind the bumper on my left rear (this is because of the CD changer), I had to come up with an idea of how to hold the nut in position while I insert the bolt: See above: As there is not enough space to hold the nut with 2 fingers, I taped the nut to ONE finger. That worked out alright. ON the right rear there is more space.
0 2023/09/11 00:30:26
Side indicator positioned
Side indicator positioned
0 2023/09/11 00:30:28
I used a short strip of chrome moulding (30mm wide) and black silicone to cover the gap.
I used a short strip of chrome moulding (30mm wide) and black silicone to cover the gap.
0 2023/09/11 00:30:30
The moulding strip was guided into the correct position over night with a bit of duct tape
The moulding strip was guided into the correct position over night with a bit of duct tape
0 2023/09/11 00:30:32
Done. And I checked, which two cables connect to the indicator bulb in the rear light. I spliced those 2 cables and connected them to the thin cable that goes to the side indicator. Polarity does not matter as there is obviously a rectifier incorporated into the LED side indicator,
Done. And I checked, which two cables connect to the indicator bulb in the rear light. I spliced those 2 cables and connected them to the thin cable that goes to the side indicator. Polarity does not matter as there is obviously a rectifier incorporated into the LED side indicator,
0 2023/09/11 00:30:34
Action. Obviously, I did the same on the other side (you see it in the reflection in the X-Type).
Action. Obviously, I did the same on the other side (you see it in the reflection in the X-Type).
0 2023/09/11 00:30:36
And this is the replacement for the ugly orange S-Type side indicator. Don't worry about the "blue" - that is just a protective foil.
And this is the replacement for the ugly orange S-Type side indicator. Don't worry about the "blue" - that is just a protective foil.
0 2023/09/11 00:30:38
0 2023/09/11 03:33:20
Step 2: Smearing a layer of black roof silicone onto the other side and let it dry over night at least.
Step 2: Smearing a layer of black roof silicone onto the other side and let it dry over night at least.
0 2023/09/11 23:58:34
Step 1: Reconnection of the ripped pieces on the side facing the tyre with black heat-glue.
Step 1: Reconnection of the ripped pieces on the side facing the tyre with black heat-glue.
0 2023/09/11 23:58:37
Step 3: Revisiting the side with the black heat glue and melt it again to make it look nicer - more evenly looking.
Step 3: Revisiting the side with the black heat glue and melt it again to make it look nicer - more evenly looking.
0 2023/09/11 23:58:41
Like that - better than ripped apart...
Like that - better than ripped apart...
0 2023/09/11 23:58:44
0 2023/09/12 00:31:13
0 2023/09/12 00:31:14
0 2023/09/27 05:59:41
0 2023/09/27 06:03:53
The front bumper looked might poor, when I bought the 2.5L X-Type 6 month ago - it definitely needed new paint (just like the right frt. fender, the roof, the trunk-lid, the left sill and the left mirror. I started on the bumper properly with primer.
The front bumper looked might poor, when I bought the 2.5L X-Type 6 month ago - it definitely needed new paint (just like the right frt. fender, the roof, the trunk-lid, the left sill and the left mirror. I started on the bumper properly with primer.
0 2023/09/27 06:03:57
HGZ Jaguar metallic racing green & clear coat
HGZ Jaguar metallic racing green & clear coat
0 2023/09/27 06:04:00
I removed a bit of plastic above the oval aperture with a cutting disc and I brought cable zip tie mounts, attached them with liquid nails and later another layer of black roof and gutter silicone, which I should have taken to start with.
I removed a bit of plastic above the oval aperture with a cutting disc and I brought cable zip tie mounts, attached them with liquid nails and later another layer of black roof and gutter silicone, which I should have taken to start with.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:02
What is red here is the protective film on the double sided 3M clear sticky tape.
What is red here is the protective film on the double sided 3M clear sticky tape.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:04
I cut off small bits of the stainless steel mesh inserted them into the cable ties and...
I cut off small bits of the stainless steel mesh inserted them into the cable ties and...
0 2023/09/27 06:04:06
...made sure that the wire bits all poke nicely thru the mesh, which I had cut to size, and then I laboriously bend over all the ends.
...made sure that the wire bits all poke nicely thru the mesh, which I had cut to size, and then I laboriously bend over all the ends.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:09
That's the OE plastic insert. Normally it is not made possible to remove that part - but I found a way to remove those 4 rivets with a heat gun without causing much damage, which did not matter anyway, as it was fixed to the upper lip (above the oval), which I had to cut off anyway.
That's the OE plastic insert. Normally it is not made possible to remove that part - but I found a way to remove those 4 rivets with a heat gun without causing much damage, which did not matter anyway, as it was fixed to the upper lip (above the oval), which I had to cut off anyway.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:11
But I still need the lower section, which has its home under the oval. A cutting disc is your friend.
But I still need the lower section, which has its home under the oval. A cutting disc is your friend.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:13
Obviously I had to come up with a new way of fixing this cut off section to the rear of the front bumper. I applied plenty of black roof and gutter silicone and I put the 3 bolts in place, which come from under the bumper (when fixed to the car later) to make make sure, that the insert will sit in the correct position.
Obviously I had to come up with a new way of fixing this cut off section to the rear of the front bumper. I applied plenty of black roof and gutter silicone and I put the 3 bolts in place, which come from under the bumper (when fixed to the car later) to make make sure, that the insert will sit in the correct position.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:15
And then in with the upper insert as well. I fixed the leaping Jaguar with bolts from the back and with clear roof and gutter silicone (from the back - i.e. not visible).
And then in with the upper insert as well. I fixed the leaping Jaguar with bolts from the back and with clear roof and gutter silicone (from the back - i.e. not visible).
0 2023/09/27 06:04:18
And as mentioned above already: I did the same kind of redesign already on my S-type a few month ago. Note that the X-Type does not yet have its bonnet leaper and its headlight chrome bezels as seen on the first picture on the top.
And as mentioned above already: I did the same kind of redesign already on my S-type a few month ago. Note that the X-Type does not yet have its bonnet leaper and its headlight chrome bezels as seen on the first picture on the top.
0 2023/09/27 06:04:20
0 2023/09/27 07:26:13
Normally I have for cases of limited space access and for cases of firmly corroded bolts my ratchet, where the mechanism is "locked" as it is all welded together. But even that ratchet did not allow access to the filler plug. But I had a broken 3/8 extension, which I modified with a cutting disc.
Normally I have for cases of limited space access and for cases of firmly corroded bolts my ratchet, where the mechanism is "locked" as it is all welded together. But even that ratchet did not allow access to the filler plug. But I had a broken 3/8 extension, which I modified with a cutting disc.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:38
So I then had a very short bit with 3/8 on one side and with a surface to attach an 8mm spanner on the other side. Using this with a spanner made it easy to remove the filler plug.
So I then had a very short bit with 3/8 on one side and with a surface to attach an 8mm spanner on the other side. Using this with a spanner made it easy to remove the filler plug.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:40
This is the filler plug: On the left before cleaning and on the right after cleaning. The magnet on there collects many metal particles.
This is the filler plug: On the left before cleaning and on the right after cleaning. The magnet on there collects many metal particles.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:44
I created such a useful tool once before, when I did the diff oil change on my S-Type. I could not find it anymore, hence I made a new one. This "suction tip" is a cut-off from an old TV or Radio roof antenna. I cut it in such a way so that the longer side just reaches the bottom inside of the diff after pushing it thru the filler hole - and it just fits.
I created such a useful tool once before, when I did the diff oil change on my S-Type. I could not find it anymore, hence I made a new one. This "suction tip" is a cut-off from an old TV or Radio roof antenna. I cut it in such a way so that the longer side just reaches the bottom inside of the diff after pushing it thru the filler hole - and it just fits.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:47
To enable the clear tube to slide over the "suction tip" it needed to be widened up a bit. I used long nose pliers, which I pull apart, while holding them in front of a hot air gun, which I hold between my knees.
To enable the clear tube to slide over the "suction tip" it needed to be widened up a bit. I used long nose pliers, which I pull apart, while holding them in front of a hot air gun, which I hold between my knees.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:49
So this goes into the diff filler hole. Any attempt to use a flexible hose and to stuff it into that filler hole will be pretty futile, as it will not be possible to convince any flexible hose to "go" to the bottom of the diff inside, and if the suction point is not at that bottom, it will not be possible to remove nearly all of the old diff oil.
So this goes into the diff filler hole. Any attempt to use a flexible hose and to stuff it into that filler hole will be pretty futile, as it will not be possible to convince any flexible hose to "go" to the bottom of the diff inside, and if the suction point is not at that bottom, it will not be possible to remove nearly all of the old diff oil.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:51
"Suction tip" inserted.
"Suction tip" inserted.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:53
Most of the old diff oil can be removed with a transfer pump as seen here. After having seemingly remove nearly all of the old diff oil that way, it pay to wait 30 minutes or so until gravity pulls down more oil to the bottom of the diff and then you can pump out a bit more.
Most of the old diff oil can be removed with a transfer pump as seen here. After having seemingly remove nearly all of the old diff oil that way, it pay to wait 30 minutes or so until gravity pulls down more oil to the bottom of the diff and then you can pump out a bit more.
0 2023/09/28 04:25:55
But I wanted to be really thorough: I used a grass jar, put 2 holes into the lid, put 2 hoses thru there and used black hot glue to seal the 2 holes with the 2 tubes in there. The tube, which goes to the bottom of the jar is the one coming from the suction tip in the diff. The other tube will remain closely under the lid - and I also placed a hanging bottle cap under this shorter tube to protect it from fluid splashes (it is hanging there on a wire).
But I wanted to be really thorough: I used a grass jar, put 2 holes into the lid, put 2 hoses thru there and used black hot glue to seal the 2 holes with the 2 tubes in there. The tube, which goes to the bottom of the jar is the one coming from the suction tip in the diff. The other tube will remain closely under the lid - and I also placed a hanging bottle cap under this shorter tube to protect it from fluid splashes (it is hanging there on a wire).
0 2023/09/28 04:25:58