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With the remaining parts installed, it looks like it had always been that way - plus it is a coloour-match to the rest of the wood-veneer in the XJ8.
With the remaining parts installed, it looks like it had always been that way - plus it is a coloour-match to the rest of the wood-veneer in the XJ8.
0 2022/11/21 15:35:01
As you may see, I used 6 little bits of wood more than originally planned to make it perfect. I also created those 2 tiny wodd inserts in the front of it, replacing the original plastic there
As you may see, I used 6 little bits of wood more than originally planned to make it perfect. I also created those 2 tiny wodd inserts in the front of it, replacing the original plastic there
0 2022/11/21 15:34:59
This is the questionable beauty after removing the useless space-grabbing old mobile.
This is the questionable beauty after removing the useless space-grabbing old mobile.
0 2022/11/21 15:34:58
Those are the backsides (which will not be seen in the car).
Those are the backsides (which will not be seen in the car).
0 2022/11/21 15:34:54
I used over 100 year old red gum plank salvaged from a left-over board of an old house. Tined it a bit darker and applied real bee wax with a heat gun.
I used over 100 year old red gum plank salvaged from a left-over board of an old house. Tined it a bit darker and applied real bee wax with a heat gun.
0 2022/11/21 15:34:52
...and another one...
...and another one...
0 2022/11/19 04:56:17
And here one more picture for the road...
And here one more picture for the road...
0 2022/11/19 04:56:15
I hope you noticed the chrome bezels around those 4 headlights - they are a must in my opinion. Here you see the other stuff I had to have: side-indicator chrome bezels, B-pillar and C-Pillar Chrome covers, tail-light chrome bezels....
I hope you noticed the chrome bezels around those 4 headlights - they are a must in my opinion. Here you see the other stuff I had to have: side-indicator chrome bezels, B-pillar and C-Pillar Chrome covers, tail-light chrome bezels....
0 2022/11/19 04:56:12
S-Type front view. Actually, when I first re-attached the modified bumper I could not continue putting all those bolts back into position. I was so in awe. In full grip of the beauty in front of me. I just had to keep staring at it...
S-Type front view. Actually, when I first re-attached the modified bumper I could not continue putting all those bolts back into position. I was so in awe. In full grip of the beauty in front of me. I just had to keep staring at it...
0 2022/11/19 04:56:10
Noteworthy: To disconnect the connector ends (for the fog lights) in the bumper, remove (pull out completely) that red wedge, and later (to re-assemble) put it back in.
Noteworthy: To disconnect the connector ends (for the fog lights) in the bumper, remove (pull out completely) that red wedge, and later (to re-assemble) put it back in.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:08
And I cut those 5mm strips longer, so that I can wedge them in on top and bottom, too. Perfect.
And I cut those 5mm strips longer, so that I can wedge them in on top and bottom, too. Perfect.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:06
Again double sided clear 3M-like sticky tape.
Again double sided clear 3M-like sticky tape.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:04
And I could not let that stand...: black plastic ribs? No way! I went to the first steel place here in town - they told me that they cannot cut 5mm strips. When I asked why, they looked at me funny. Obviously, they were not too bright. So off the the second steel place: No problem. 5mm means only that they cannot use their automatic stop of their cutter, but have to mark the 5mm by hand. That's all.
And I could not let that stand...: black plastic ribs? No way! I went to the first steel place here in town - they told me that they cannot cut 5mm strips. When I asked why, they looked at me funny. Obviously, they were not too bright. So off the the second steel place: No problem. 5mm means only that they cannot use their automatic stop of their cutter, but have to mark the 5mm by hand. That's all.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:02
Thus, I cut "eyes" to go over the first stainless steel sheet.
Thus, I cut "eyes" to go over the first stainless steel sheet.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:59
Back again to those parts: When attempting to remove the cut out circle to early I accidentally have bent then edge of the stainless steel sheet - and like a fold in paper, this cannot be removed anymore.
Back again to those parts: When attempting to remove the cut out circle to early I accidentally have bent then edge of the stainless steel sheet - and like a fold in paper, this cannot be removed anymore.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:58
Fixed onto the bumper from the rear. top and bottom: Added 10mm stainless steel strips
Fixed onto the bumper from the rear. top and bottom: Added 10mm stainless steel strips
0 2022/11/19 04:55:56
That is it.
That is it.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:54
Again: Stainless steel - this time in woven mesh shape. Cut out a bit in the required size with overlapping ends, which I then had to bend over by hand (pliers) - Result: A missive blister.
Again: Stainless steel - this time in woven mesh shape. Cut out a bit in the required size with overlapping ends, which I then had to bend over by hand (pliers) - Result: A missive blister.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:51
And here we go
And here we go
0 2022/11/19 04:55:48
Double-sided 3M-like clear sticky tape...
Double-sided 3M-like clear sticky tape...
0 2022/11/19 04:55:46
And when ever doing straight cuts add this "special feature" to reduce vibration.
And when ever doing straight cuts add this "special feature" to reduce vibration.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:44
I am not sure if anybody ever attempted before to cut out a tiny circle with an angel-grinder - but it is possible - obviously wear a full face-mask.
I am not sure if anybody ever attempted before to cut out a tiny circle with an angel-grinder - but it is possible - obviously wear a full face-mask.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:41
0.4mm stainless steel. First I used cardboard to make a template over the 2 plastic parts (2 attempts), then I transferred the shape onto the stainless steel.
0.4mm stainless steel. First I used cardboard to make a template over the 2 plastic parts (2 attempts), then I transferred the shape onto the stainless steel.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:39
That's the result... And I just love the Jag-emblem in the middle. My inspiration for that was the Ferrari horse in the same spot on a Ferrari.
That's the result... And I just love the Jag-emblem in the middle. My inspiration for that was the Ferrari horse in the same spot on a Ferrari.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:36
It's a 1976 Jag
It's a 1976 Jag
0 2022/11/12 03:47:12
It's a Jag Ute project car
It's a Jag Ute project car
0 2022/11/12 03:47:10
Van
Van
0 2022/11/11 01:32:53
On the back it says on the left: "This is a (Mazda) E2000", and on the right: "...thus it's an E-Type ;) " and I added the jumping leaper emblem... On the front it says just E2000 and on the right just "E-Type ;) "
On the back it says on the left: "This is a (Mazda) E2000", and on the right: "...thus it's an E-Type ;) " and I added the jumping leaper emblem... On the front it says just E2000 and on the right just "E-Type ;) "
0 2022/11/10 15:17:45
Originally this ride-on came in orange - so I just had to respray it - so which colour, if not racing green? ;)
Originally this ride-on came in orange - so I just had to respray it - so which colour, if not racing green? ;)
0 2022/11/10 03:57:59
Better!
Better!
0 2022/11/08 03:48:41
And while others release the tension of the tensioner (when installing the new drive belt) from underneath, I did it from the top, making my "special tool" even more special: After pulling the ratchet via the pipe extension up, I stuck a huge screwdriver into that pipe to arrest the tensioned in that position, which allowed me to very comfortably and slowly bring the drive belt into position (the correct position after 1 failed attempt in the wrong position (see top of thread).
And while others release the tension of the tensioner (when installing the new drive belt) from underneath, I did it from the top, making my "special tool" even more special: After pulling the ratchet via the pipe extension up, I stuck a huge screwdriver into that pipe to arrest the tensioned in that position, which allowed me to very comfortably and slowly bring the drive belt into position (the correct position after 1 failed attempt in the wrong position (see top of thread).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:40
And another "special tool" to fix pulley 6. Btw.: the space is that limited around pulley 2 and 3 that it is possible only to just get a special tool in to loosen or fasten the bolt - the rest of the action (screwing out and in) is best done with the two pointer-fingers of your two hands.
And another "special tool" to fix pulley 6. Btw.: the space is that limited around pulley 2 and 3 that it is possible only to just get a special tool in to loosen or fasten the bolt - the rest of the action (screwing out and in) is best done with the two pointer-fingers of your two hands.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:38
All 3 pulleys are "better" now... ;). Btw.: Since removing the 3 pulleys form the car, I took special care not to mix up the bits and pieces (bolts / washers, etc.) associated with each pulley.
All 3 pulleys are "better" now... ;). Btw.: Since removing the 3 pulleys form the car, I took special care not to mix up the bits and pieces (bolts / washers, etc.) associated with each pulley.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:36
This would be the easiest and best way to get the new bearing back into the pulleys: A hydraulic press, and I press the new bearing in with the old one on top, and then I remove the old one afterwards again.
This would be the easiest and best way to get the new bearing back into the pulleys: A hydraulic press, and I press the new bearing in with the old one on top, and then I remove the old one afterwards again.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:34
I did the research at home to make life for the guys at the bearing shop easier: both smooth idler pulley had the same bearing (I found that it is 6203-2rs, they sold me 6203 C 2HRS by FAG), and the grooved one (I found that it is 6303-2rs, they sold me 6303 C 2HRS by FAG).
I did the research at home to make life for the guys at the bearing shop easier: both smooth idler pulley had the same bearing (I found that it is 6203-2rs, they sold me 6203 C 2HRS by FAG), and the grooved one (I found that it is 6303-2rs, they sold me 6303 C 2HRS by FAG).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:31
Left the bearing of pulley 6, and right of the one, which was stuck completely: No. 2. Both obviously disintegrated already. The bearing of pulley No. 3, the grooved one, did not look that bad, but I swapped it as well - for good measure.
Left the bearing of pulley 6, and right of the one, which was stuck completely: No. 2. Both obviously disintegrated already. The bearing of pulley No. 3, the grooved one, did not look that bad, but I swapped it as well - for good measure.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:29
That's how to remove the pulleys.
That's how to remove the pulleys.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:27
That is the cleaned up idler pulley no. 2, already with the new bearing - but you can still see the discoloration at the inner backside: That spot got really hot, while the pulley did not rotate anymore (friction heat).
That is the cleaned up idler pulley no. 2, already with the new bearing - but you can still see the discoloration at the inner backside: That spot got really hot, while the pulley did not rotate anymore (friction heat).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:25
...every mm extra space helps: I removed that connector, to get another mm of access-space. And as you can see I created another "special tool" to release the tension by using a "welded solid" 3/8 ratchet and a pipe extension to move the tensioner to the back of the car. There is not sufficient space for a normal ratchet, hence I used mine, which broke a long time ago and I welded the mechanism together (results in less height). HOWEVER, I saw meanwhile, that you do that normally from underneath
...every mm extra space helps: I removed that connector, to get another mm of access-space. And as you can see I created another "special tool" to release the tension by using a "welded solid" 3/8 ratchet and a pipe extension to move the tensioner to the back of the car. There is not sufficient space for a normal ratchet, hence I used mine, which broke a long time ago and I welded the mechanism together (results in less height). HOWEVER, I saw meanwhile, that you do that normally from underneath
0 2022/11/08 03:48:23
I had to be inventive and create various "special tools", which would allow be to loosen the hex-bolts of the three idler pulleys. Accessing some from above and some from below - and "below" means: Remove the right frt. wheel (plus I removed the rotor and brake disks for the purpose of cleaning the lot), and then remove the plastic splash shield behind the wheel.
I had to be inventive and create various "special tools", which would allow be to loosen the hex-bolts of the three idler pulleys. Accessing some from above and some from below - and "below" means: Remove the right frt. wheel (plus I removed the rotor and brake disks for the purpose of cleaning the lot), and then remove the plastic splash shield behind the wheel.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:21