Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
It prooved to be extremely difficult to get the return hose (the lower hose) off. Afterwards, getting the hose back on was equally difficult, so I resorted to using a heat gun, to warm up the rubber hose a bit, which was very helpful - I should have done that already at this point here, during the removal.
It prooved to be extremely difficult to get the return hose (the lower hose) off. Afterwards, getting the hose back on was equally difficult, so I resorted to using a heat gun, to warm up the rubber hose a bit, which was very helpful - I should have done that already at this point here, during the removal.
0 2022/12/27 02:24:14
Then I removed the bracket, pushed the clips of the hosed back and used pliers to twist-turn the hoses, so that they both can turn around the point where they are attached. The lid of the reservoir is back on!
Then I removed the bracket, pushed the clips of the hosed back and used pliers to twist-turn the hoses, so that they both can turn around the point where they are attached. The lid of the reservoir is back on!
0 2022/12/27 02:24:12
Next I lowered the reservoir so that I can empty it even more.
Next I lowered the reservoir so that I can empty it even more.
0 2022/12/27 02:24:10
Then I detached the reservoir from its bracket. Also, I have to determine, which of the two hoses the return hose is. You can see it, when you look into the reservoir. ON the Ford Fairlane NL and the S-Type the return hose is the upper hose, but this here is the other design as used on the X-Type: The lower hose connects to the pipe, which rises up INSIDE of the reservoir so that the lower hose effectively becomes the "upper" hose, if you know what I mean.
Then I detached the reservoir from its bracket. Also, I have to determine, which of the two hoses the return hose is. You can see it, when you look into the reservoir. ON the Ford Fairlane NL and the S-Type the return hose is the upper hose, but this here is the other design as used on the X-Type: The lower hose connects to the pipe, which rises up INSIDE of the reservoir so that the lower hose effectively becomes the "upper" hose, if you know what I mean.
0 2022/12/27 02:24:07
Let's start with an "art-picture"... ;) You can see what is important: I use heat-glue to glue a bit of tube onto a syringe to empty the pwr. steering reservoir bit by bit and fill the waste bottle with the old fluid.
Let's start with an "art-picture"... ;) You can see what is important: I use heat-glue to glue a bit of tube onto a syringe to empty the pwr. steering reservoir bit by bit and fill the waste bottle with the old fluid.
0 2022/12/27 02:24:02
0 2022/12/27 01:57:51
That little white "clip" on the wiring loom is just one example of a X-mas tree. I heated it up a bit to get it out, and then again I headed it up to get it back in again later.
That little white "clip" on the wiring loom is just one example of a X-mas tree. I heated it up a bit to get it out, and then again I headed it up to get it back in again later.
0 2022/12/26 15:48:50
And once, that red pin of the primary tensioner is pulled: Am I supposed to move that black thing, which look like a bit of a chain (where the red arrow points at) into any direction?
And once, that red pin of the primary tensioner is pulled: Am I supposed to move that black thing, which look like a bit of a chain (where the red arrow points at) into any direction?
0 2022/12/18 04:05:05
In those blue circles you can just spot the red pins from the new secondary tensioners. I am sure they need to be pulled, once everything else is fitted properly. In those green circles are the primary tensioners. They also have red pins. Are they also supposed to be pulled? I did, but I am not sure, if that was correct - at least I just found a YT-video, where those were also pulled. But is that correct?
In those blue circles you can just spot the red pins from the new secondary tensioners. I am sure they need to be pulled, once everything else is fitted properly. In those green circles are the primary tensioners. They also have red pins. Are they also supposed to be pulled? I did, but I am not sure, if that was correct - at least I just found a YT-video, where those were also pulled. But is that correct?
0 2022/12/18 03:57:14
0 2022/12/18 03:53:02
So push that clip INTO the clip and then pull?
So push that clip INTO the clip and then pull?
0 2022/12/13 03:25:04
And this is the top view of that mysterious clip design.
And this is the top view of that mysterious clip design.
0 2022/12/13 03:08:15
I already pulled that plastic-clip, which is an integral part of the clip, which I can't get off.
I already pulled that plastic-clip, which is an integral part of the clip, which I can't get off.
0 2022/12/13 03:08:13
Circled in red: That clip fixes a T-piece (of a passing tube) to the lower throttle body.
Circled in red: That clip fixes a T-piece (of a passing tube) to the lower throttle body.
0 2022/12/13 03:08:11
All good again. I found a new metal idler pulley with bearing, replacin the crappy original plastic pulley (where bearings cannot be swapped). And funny: Hard to see, but the new black pulley is made in Canada (hard to see, printed on the right)...: Which is a perfect match with the rest of the tesioner (see picture above...).
All good again. I found a new metal idler pulley with bearing, replacin the crappy original plastic pulley (where bearings cannot be swapped). And funny: Hard to see, but the new black pulley is made in Canada (hard to see, printed on the right)...: Which is a perfect match with the rest of the tesioner (see picture above...).
0 2022/12/10 03:05:21
But not to worry: 5mm shorter sounds a lot, but it is not that bad, because even the new bolt used nearly all the thread available (further out there was no more thread). Plus, I used the red loctite). Nevertheless, I went over the top, and I drilled a little hole into the new bolt and added another little screw from the other side. And used loctite again.
But not to worry: 5mm shorter sounds a lot, but it is not that bad, because even the new bolt used nearly all the thread available (further out there was no more thread). Plus, I used the red loctite). Nevertheless, I went over the top, and I drilled a little hole into the new bolt and added another little screw from the other side. And used loctite again.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:19
I was soooo lucky to find a left handed bolt! They did not have and left handed bolds in our local shop, where they sell bolts, screws and nuts only. But: the lawn-mower shop did have one. About 5mm shorter, though, and I also had to place a properly sized washer there as well to fixate the inner part of the bearing.
I was soooo lucky to find a left handed bolt! They did not have and left handed bolds in our local shop, where they sell bolts, screws and nuts only. But: the lawn-mower shop did have one. About 5mm shorter, though, and I also had to place a properly sized washer there as well to fixate the inner part of the bearing.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:16
And this is the other broken off bolt I had to deal with: The belt tensioner is marketed as non fixable replacement part. Obviously the bearing of the idler puller on it needs to be replaced. The cost for that tensioner are horrendous. I was "hammering" that bolt of the pulley with an air-ratchet... - until it broke off - and only then I saw the trap Jaguar planted there: That was a left-handed bolt!!! What the ...!? The things they do to sell the complete tensioner! Anyway, as you can see above
And this is the other broken off bolt I had to deal with: The belt tensioner is marketed as non fixable replacement part. Obviously the bearing of the idler puller on it needs to be replaced. The cost for that tensioner are horrendous. I was "hammering" that bolt of the pulley with an air-ratchet... - until it broke off - and only then I saw the trap Jaguar planted there: That was a left-handed bolt!!! What the ...!? The things they do to sell the complete tensioner! Anyway, as you can see above
0 2022/12/10 03:05:14
On the next day I figured that I could actually make a special bolt instead, which is BETTER THAN ORIGINAL, because the hole it goes into in the engine happens to allow for a bit of extra length: I checked: 5mm longer is good. That way I can use even part of the old unused thread, which is utterly intact even after removing the stuck bit. So I removed the 8mm x 40mm bolt from the "sleeve" and replaced it with a 8mm x 45mm bolt - i.e. now I have a special bolt, which is 5mm longer than original.
On the next day I figured that I could actually make a special bolt instead, which is BETTER THAN ORIGINAL, because the hole it goes into in the engine happens to allow for a bit of extra length: I checked: 5mm longer is good. That way I can use even part of the old unused thread, which is utterly intact even after removing the stuck bit. So I removed the 8mm x 40mm bolt from the "sleeve" and replaced it with a 8mm x 45mm bolt - i.e. now I have a special bolt, which is 5mm longer than original.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:13
I bought a 8mm x 40mm shouldered hex bolt. I then reduced the thickness of the old hex-head to precisely get the same length of thread lurking out. On the right: I put those 2 parts together and glued them together with high temperature silicone.
I bought a 8mm x 40mm shouldered hex bolt. I then reduced the thickness of the old hex-head to precisely get the same length of thread lurking out. On the right: I put those 2 parts together and glued them together with high temperature silicone.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:11
Next problem: Without paying an arm and a leg (and waiting for ages for it to arrive in the mail), such a bolt cannot be procured. But see what I did: I "reused" the broken off old bolt by drilling all the way thru (using a drill in a stand and HSS Co drill bits, starting with small drill bits and using bigger ones thereafter. The result was perfect.
Next problem: Without paying an arm and a leg (and waiting for ages for it to arrive in the mail), such a bolt cannot be procured. But see what I did: I "reused" the broken off old bolt by drilling all the way thru (using a drill in a stand and HSS Co drill bits, starting with small drill bits and using bigger ones thereafter. The result was perfect.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:09
With my tab (thread cutter) size 8mm pitch 1.25 I cut a beautiful & useable thread into the engine block.
With my tab (thread cutter) size 8mm pitch 1.25 I cut a beautiful & useable thread into the engine block.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:07
So at the end of the day, that bolt-remainder would not come out in the shape of the bolt, but I prevailed anyway, as I removed it in the shape of 1.000-10.000 particles without damaging the threaded part of the engine block. Those 2 half-rings were the biggest parts left form that bolt-remainder: It was the outer thread of the bolt.
So at the end of the day, that bolt-remainder would not come out in the shape of the bolt, but I prevailed anyway, as I removed it in the shape of 1.000-10.000 particles without damaging the threaded part of the engine block. Those 2 half-rings were the biggest parts left form that bolt-remainder: It was the outer thread of the bolt.
0 2022/12/10 03:05:05
But it was unbelievable: The extractors of all sizes starting from very small and getting bigger (with the bigger hole sizes) all had a very good grip, but the bolt-remains would not budge. I did not want to break the extractor in that hole. Initially I thought I would not drill bigger than 5mm, but it was not use: I had to go on to 5.5mm, 6mm, 6.5mm and even 7mm. It is obviously very important (and difficult at the same time) to hold the drill ABSOLUTELY straight. Else, I would drill into the t
But it was unbelievable: The extractors of all sizes starting from very small and getting bigger (with the bigger hole sizes) all had a very good grip, but the bolt-remains would not budge. I did not want to break the extractor in that hole. Initially I thought I would not drill bigger than 5mm, but it was not use: I had to go on to 5.5mm, 6mm, 6.5mm and even 7mm. It is obviously very important (and difficult at the same time) to hold the drill ABSOLUTELY straight. Else, I would drill into the t
0 2022/12/10 03:05:03
Below: I caught quite a few filings. Above: Hole drilled already and screw extractor inserted...: I drilled into the broken off screw extremely carefully: I used new HSS Co drill bits. Starting with 2mm, then 3.2mm, 4mm, 4.5, 5. Since I knew the length of the bit stuck in there (by comparing with the bolt from the other side (which I got out), I used a marker on my drill bit to that I knew, when I would get to the end of the bolt (making sure I would not continue on drilling into the engine behi
Below: I caught quite a few filings. Above: Hole drilled already and screw extractor inserted...: I drilled into the broken off screw extremely carefully: I used new HSS Co drill bits. Starting with 2mm, then 3.2mm, 4mm, 4.5, 5. Since I knew the length of the bit stuck in there (by comparing with the bolt from the other side (which I got out), I used a marker on my drill bit to that I knew, when I would get to the end of the bolt (making sure I would not continue on drilling into the engine behi
0 2022/12/10 03:04:59
In preparation of the drilling ahead I protected the engine from the upcoming shower of metal filings (when drilling) with soft cardboard and a huge magnet (to catch the mild steel filings).
In preparation of the drilling ahead I protected the engine from the upcoming shower of metal filings (when drilling) with soft cardboard and a huge magnet (to catch the mild steel filings).
0 2022/12/10 03:04:56
This is the remaining, broken off, part of that bolt. I reckon the bolt is mild steel - and the engine block is aluminium. That is quite a challenge!
This is the remaining, broken off, part of that bolt. I reckon the bolt is mild steel - and the engine block is aluminium. That is quite a challenge!
0 2022/12/10 03:04:54
This special bolt - as you can see - broke off. I was definitely NOT applying excessive force - just normal force via ratchet to get it out. This special bolt can be found behind the timing front cover and it was holding one of the broken guides of the timing chain. This bolt should not have broken!
This special bolt - as you can see - broke off. I was definitely NOT applying excessive force - just normal force via ratchet to get it out. This special bolt can be found behind the timing front cover and it was holding one of the broken guides of the timing chain. This bolt should not have broken!
0 2022/12/10 03:04:51
I just ordered 2 of these kits (for 2 S-Type). I already have the sleeve, but the kit comes with that sleeve. I need the adapter valve body and those 4 tubes.
I just ordered 2 of these kits (for 2 S-Type). I already have the sleeve, but the kit comes with that sleeve. I need the adapter valve body and those 4 tubes.
0 2022/11/30 21:10:43
0 2022/11/30 03:38:16
0 2022/11/30 03:34:18
0 2022/11/30 03:34:16
The rubber of my tibbe key (Fairlane) dissolved and I could not turn the key anymore. Thus I created a new "grip" for it: beer-bottle-lids (from both sides) and lead poured into the centre.
The rubber of my tibbe key (Fairlane) dissolved and I could not turn the key anymore. Thus I created a new "grip" for it: beer-bottle-lids (from both sides) and lead poured into the centre.
0 2022/11/30 00:18:50
I tried to use a little file to fix the damaged groove on the expansion tank - and sooner or later I would have succeeded, but since I had a new tank anyway, I used that instead. On the bottom you see the tube connected with that clip. It sits firm now.
I tried to use a little file to fix the damaged groove on the expansion tank - and sooner or later I would have succeeded, but since I had a new tank anyway, I used that instead. On the bottom you see the tube connected with that clip. It sits firm now.
0 2022/11/28 04:35:19
Also, initially I inserted 2 x seal
Also, initially I inserted 2 x seal
0 2022/11/28 04:35:17
There is a groove at the expansion tank outflow. Somehow, this was damaged on one side (no longer wide enough for the clip (of the connection tube) to latch in. This fault is very hard to spot, but the picture above makes the issue clear.
There is a groove at the expansion tank outflow. Somehow, this was damaged on one side (no longer wide enough for the clip (of the connection tube) to latch in. This fault is very hard to spot, but the picture above makes the issue clear.
0 2022/11/28 04:35:15
When I did the ATF full flush last time, I did have the headlights removed anyway. But now, which the headlights installed, it made things easier to remove that bracket (one of the two brackets holding the radiator in position.)
When I did the ATF full flush last time, I did have the headlights removed anyway. But now, which the headlights installed, it made things easier to remove that bracket (one of the two brackets holding the radiator in position.)
0 2022/11/26 04:08:07
When I did the ATF full flush last time, I did have the headlights removed anyway. But now, which the headlights installed, it made things easier to remove that black bracket (one of the two brackets holding the radiator in position.)
When I did the ATF full flush last time, I did have the headlights removed anyway. But now, which the headlights installed, it made things easier to remove that black bracket (one of the two brackets holding the radiator in position.)
0 2022/11/26 04:00:02
And in with the expensive, but suitable Lifeguard 6
And in with the expensive, but suitable Lifeguard 6
0 2022/11/26 03:45:37
Thus, out with the bransnew (but unsuitable) Nulon SYNATF
Thus, out with the bransnew (but unsuitable) Nulon SYNATF
0 2022/11/26 03:45:34