Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
And this is a picture, where you see how NOT to install the drive belt later on. It is very tempting to do it that way, as it seems more logical, plus, you only note the difference when you see the right and wrong way next to each other. Doing it the wrong way results in less tension on the belt and rubs the belt against itself to the effect that your ears are being blown off...
And this is a picture, where you see how NOT to install the drive belt later on. It is very tempting to do it that way, as it seems more logical, plus, you only note the difference when you see the right and wrong way next to each other. Doing it the wrong way results in less tension on the belt and rubs the belt against itself to the effect that your ears are being blown off...
0 2022/11/08 03:48:19
As it is not possible to take a picture of all the pulleys due to the space restriction, and as it really difficult to find a sketch on the net, I created a sketch myself - more a Picasso than a Rembrandt, but it does the trick. I removed the idler pulleys 2, 3 and 6.
As it is not possible to take a picture of all the pulleys due to the space restriction, and as it really difficult to find a sketch on the net, I created a sketch myself - more a Picasso than a Rembrandt, but it does the trick. I removed the idler pulleys 2, 3 and 6.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:16
...but there is not much point in explaining exactly how I did that, because this was a pointless exercise: On the S-Type that DSC-module cannot be opened and I cannot access the PCB. Thus, I put it straight back in. I think what I saw on the net regarding that PCB must have been on the XJ8...
...but there is not much point in explaining exactly how I did that, because this was a pointless exercise: On the S-Type that DSC-module cannot be opened and I cannot access the PCB. Thus, I put it straight back in. I think what I saw on the net regarding that PCB must have been on the XJ8...
0 2022/11/05 04:36:48
ANNOYINGLY the ABS & Cruise faults were still there. In my extensive research on the net I saw that it is possible that the PCB of the ABS/DSC-module (the elk-test-module ;) ) could have cold welds in need of rewelding. Thus, I actually managed the near impossible to remove the black-box DSC-module from the "octopus", without actually removing any brake-lines...
ANNOYINGLY the ABS & Cruise faults were still there. In my extensive research on the net I saw that it is possible that the PCB of the ABS/DSC-module (the elk-test-module ;) ) could have cold welds in need of rewelding. Thus, I actually managed the near impossible to remove the black-box DSC-module from the "octopus", without actually removing any brake-lines...
0 2022/11/05 04:36:46
Here I measure 2.5 Mega Ohm on each of the brand new sensors. One old one measured 0.7MOhm and the other one started the measurement at that same level, but quickly went down to zero MOhm. I assume one or the other was broken. Anyway, I had now the new ones.
Here I measure 2.5 Mega Ohm on each of the brand new sensors. One old one measured 0.7MOhm and the other one started the measurement at that same level, but quickly went down to zero MOhm. I assume one or the other was broken. Anyway, I had now the new ones.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:43
And this is that connector. I measured (with ignition on) the full battery voltage between those 2 pins, which tells me that the wiring is OK.
And this is that connector. I measured (with ignition on) the full battery voltage between those 2 pins, which tells me that the wiring is OK.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:41
After that pin has been pushed thru it is extremlu easy to lift the connector off.
After that pin has been pushed thru it is extremlu easy to lift the connector off.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:39
This is being done with a screwdriver.
This is being done with a screwdriver.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:38
Those connectors to the ABS speed sensors on the rear axle are a bit tricky to open. The connecots on the left and right are identical, i.e. on one side, the red "pin" need to be pushed outwards, on the other side inwards.
Those connectors to the ABS speed sensors on the rear axle are a bit tricky to open. The connecots on the left and right are identical, i.e. on one side, the red "pin" need to be pushed outwards, on the other side inwards.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:36
0 2022/11/05 04:34:42
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0 2022/11/05 04:34:32
0 2022/11/05 04:34:29
Everything is extremely tight in that area. Thus, I can't properly see it - that picture is from the internet: What is the function of that pulley in the red circle? What is powered via that pulley?
Everything is extremely tight in that area. Thus, I can't properly see it - that picture is from the internet: What is the function of that pulley in the red circle? What is powered via that pulley?
0 2022/10/27 17:33:59
I replaced the old fog lights with those fance LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo. Their cables end in the opposing connector to the one in the previous picture.
I replaced the old fog lights with those fance LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo. Their cables end in the opposing connector to the one in the previous picture.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:20
And both cable end in this little connector.
And both cable end in this little connector.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:18
Here is the outgoing cable runing along the fat wiring loom, and in the middle of the bumber this cable gets company: A second cable that I fixed firmly to earth via the bolt to the horn assy.
Here is the outgoing cable runing along the fat wiring loom, and in the middle of the bumber this cable gets company: A second cable that I fixed firmly to earth via the bolt to the horn assy.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:16
Those two cables will get connected to those 2 contacts of the coil of a 12V relay. Which cable goes to which side of the coil, does not matter. The ignition ON signal feeds into a fuse (I chose 10A), which goes to the "common" contact of the relay. And the outgoing cable from that relay leaves from the NC contact of the relay, i.e. the :normally closed" contact, so that the DTRL is on, when ignition is on. But if you then switch on low beam, the relay will move its contact over to the NO-contac
Those two cables will get connected to those 2 contacts of the coil of a 12V relay. Which cable goes to which side of the coil, does not matter. The ignition ON signal feeds into a fuse (I chose 10A), which goes to the "common" contact of the relay. And the outgoing cable from that relay leaves from the NC contact of the relay, i.e. the :normally closed" contact, so that the DTRL is on, when ignition is on. But if you then switch on low beam, the relay will move its contact over to the NO-contac
0 2022/10/24 00:00:14
Both cables need to be properly insulated again.
Both cables need to be properly insulated again.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:11
...and this is the other.
...and this is the other.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:08
As described above, this is one signal spliced off from the headlight connector, which I need for the relay...
As described above, this is one signal spliced off from the headlight connector, which I need for the relay...
0 2022/10/24 00:00:06
This is where the ignition relay is at home.
This is where the ignition relay is at home.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:03
I need a strong "battery plus" (= 13.7V approx.) signal to power the DTRL LED lights. So contact 87 on the ignition relay was perfect. If you happen to only find a "weak" signal (I mean on any other car, e.g. a signal coming from the stalk switches), use that signal only to open a relay, which then switches thru a battery plus signal coming from the battery. But I am happy with contact 87, which makes things a bit easier.
I need a strong "battery plus" (= 13.7V approx.) signal to power the DTRL LED lights. So contact 87 on the ignition relay was perfect. If you happen to only find a "weak" signal (I mean on any other car, e.g. a signal coming from the stalk switches), use that signal only to open a relay, which then switches thru a battery plus signal coming from the battery. But I am happy with contact 87, which makes things a bit easier.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:00
Only after I finished the job, I realized that I could have done one better: To get even the very last bit of oil and dirt out of the rear axle (despite Jaguar fairlure to provide a release plug), I could have done, what I have drawn above: attach my metal pipe (which you have seen in the pictures) to a hose, and that to a solid and airtight jar as in the sketch and connect the second pipe to an old vacuum cleaner... I;ll do that next time.
Only after I finished the job, I realized that I could have done one better: To get even the very last bit of oil and dirt out of the rear axle (despite Jaguar fairlure to provide a release plug), I could have done, what I have drawn above: attach my metal pipe (which you have seen in the pictures) to a hose, and that to a solid and airtight jar as in the sketch and connect the second pipe to an old vacuum cleaner... I;ll do that next time.
0 2022/10/23 21:44:02
The total amount of oil in the S-Type axle is 1.3L. Above I filled a water bottle for comparison purposes with 1.3L of water and next to it the bottle with the oil I removed from the axle - more than 1.2L. Not bad, I would say. Next I used the pump to fill in the new oil and fitted the filler plug again.
The total amount of oil in the S-Type axle is 1.3L. Above I filled a water bottle for comparison purposes with 1.3L of water and next to it the bottle with the oil I removed from the axle - more than 1.2L. Not bad, I would say. Next I used the pump to fill in the new oil and fitted the filler plug again.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:32
And now I can direct the end of the pipe very precisely of there I want to have it.
And now I can direct the end of the pipe very precisely of there I want to have it.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:30
And I fed it into the opening. Very easy.
And I fed it into the opening. Very easy.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:28
I do not have access to a junkyard with old cars and surplus pipes, BUT I had an old surplus TV-antenna here: Perfect. I have cut out that bit, which you see above.
I do not have access to a junkyard with old cars and surplus pipes, BUT I had an old surplus TV-antenna here: Perfect. I have cut out that bit, which you see above.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:27
But I should have known better: This was a pointless exercise, as it is simply not possible to direct that flexible hose inside the axle into the right position. I guess, I got only about 1/3 of the total oil in there out that way. Note: It is always a good idea to fixate the end of the hose with a ring-spanner - and then best place a weight onto that ring-spanner.
But I should have known better: This was a pointless exercise, as it is simply not possible to direct that flexible hose inside the axle into the right position. I guess, I got only about 1/3 of the total oil in there out that way. Note: It is always a good idea to fixate the end of the hose with a ring-spanner - and then best place a weight onto that ring-spanner.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:24
Thus I tried that, and I even routed the suction pipe around that beam to be able to get the best access.
Thus I tried that, and I even routed the suction pipe around that beam to be able to get the best access.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:22
I use my fluid pump to get the old fluid out of there. I checked youtube, etc. and some seem to suggest that you can simply poke the suction tube in there and remove the oil...
I use my fluid pump to get the old fluid out of there. I checked youtube, etc. and some seem to suggest that you can simply poke the suction tube in there and remove the oil...
0 2022/10/23 21:20:19
Step one: Remove filler bolt with a 3/8" ratchet (without any socket attached). Better than a ratchet would be a "solid" ratchet, i.e. one without that fragile mechanism. I myself use a ratchet, which got damaged a long time ago and I welded the mechanism solid. To that ratchet I attach a long pipe to increase the lever-arm. The picture above is actually from when I tightened the filler bolt again, but to open it, you obviously have to turn it anti-clockwise.
Step one: Remove filler bolt with a 3/8" ratchet (without any socket attached). Better than a ratchet would be a "solid" ratchet, i.e. one without that fragile mechanism. I myself use a ratchet, which got damaged a long time ago and I welded the mechanism solid. To that ratchet I attach a long pipe to increase the lever-arm. The picture above is actually from when I tightened the filler bolt again, but to open it, you obviously have to turn it anti-clockwise.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:16
TO ensure the filler hose does not fall out I squeezed it in position with a tube-cut-off. Even though I had removed 5L of fluid (by letting it drip for 3 days), I initially was only able to refill 2.3L (until it came back out by the filler hole). To continue nnow with the full flush, I left the filler hose connected, and...
TO ensure the filler hose does not fall out I squeezed it in position with a tube-cut-off. Even though I had removed 5L of fluid (by letting it drip for 3 days), I initially was only able to refill 2.3L (until it came back out by the filler hole). To continue nnow with the full flush, I left the filler hose connected, and...
0 2022/10/23 05:37:05
Now you can refill the transmission fluid with a handy fluid pump (AU$10, ebay or this week at Aldi)
Now you can refill the transmission fluid with a handy fluid pump (AU$10, ebay or this week at Aldi)
0 2022/10/23 05:37:02
...secured the hose with a weight (hammer) in a bowl to collect all the old transmission fluid. Letting the engine run, pumps the transmission fluid out by that pipe and hose. Obviously, let the engine run for brief moments only, then youn have to refill the reservoir again (which I had left pump and filler hose connected). The engine on briefly again, and so on until clean transmission fluid is being pumped out. I filled in a total of 14.4L, including the last liter , which I filled after reins
...secured the hose with a weight (hammer) in a bowl to collect all the old transmission fluid. Letting the engine run, pumps the transmission fluid out by that pipe and hose. Obviously, let the engine run for brief moments only, then youn have to refill the reservoir again (which I had left pump and filler hose connected). The engine on briefly again, and so on until clean transmission fluid is being pumped out. I filled in a total of 14.4L, including the last liter , which I filled after reins
0 2022/10/23 05:37:00
...and I removed the upper transmission fluid metal-pipe from the radiator. This can be done without fear that anything would drip out after removing that pipe. I connected a clear tube to that pipe and...
...and I removed the upper transmission fluid metal-pipe from the radiator. This can be done without fear that anything would drip out after removing that pipe. I connected a clear tube to that pipe and...
0 2022/10/23 05:36:58
Here again my special tool with the filler plug removed.
Here again my special tool with the filler plug removed.
0 2022/10/23 05:36:55