Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
And you simply fixate the new sleeve pushing it back in. NOTE that there is this "thingy" at the bottom of the male part of the connector (picture above!), i.e. there is only one correct rotary position, in which you need to insert the sleeve. Push it in sufficiently (by hand), and then push the white "grip" back up again - carefully - I gave it a few soft hits with that part of my hand, which is between wrist and palm.
And you simply fixate the new sleeve pushing it back in. NOTE that there is this "thingy" at the bottom of the male part of the connector (picture above!), i.e. there is only one correct rotary position, in which you need to insert the sleeve. Push it in sufficiently (by hand), and then push the white "grip" back up again - carefully - I gave it a few soft hits with that part of my hand, which is between wrist and palm.
0 2022/10/23 05:36:44
And that connector (which goes into the sleeve) also wants a new gasket. First, I overlooked that and there were still a some occasional drops dripping out. No idea, where to get the right gasket (2nd from top), but I did have FKM seals OD 29mm CS 3.5mm (=diameter). I tried that, but it was too thick, thus I thinned it down with an angle-grinder (1st from top thinned down too much, 3rd from top was OK. While I hope, that this seals suff, I also ordered already cheap FKM seals ID 22.4mm CS 2.65mm
And that connector (which goes into the sleeve) also wants a new gasket. First, I overlooked that and there were still a some occasional drops dripping out. No idea, where to get the right gasket (2nd from top), but I did have FKM seals OD 29mm CS 3.5mm (=diameter). I tried that, but it was too thick, thus I thinned it down with an angle-grinder (1st from top thinned down too much, 3rd from top was OK. While I hope, that this seals suff, I also ordered already cheap FKM seals ID 22.4mm CS 2.65mm
0 2022/10/23 05:36:46
SO this is the new seal on the connector. Half an hour later (applying the "Insanity-method") I successfully put the connector back on (again with my left hand). According to Albert Einstein, trying the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result is the definition of insanity... Well, the connector just did not want to go back on - and the rteason was not the new gasket, because just to test it, I tried also without gasket: I do not know why, but it did not want to go back on
SO this is the new seal on the connector. Half an hour later (applying the "Insanity-method") I successfully put the connector back on (again with my left hand). According to Albert Einstein, trying the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result is the definition of insanity... Well, the connector just did not want to go back on - and the rteason was not the new gasket, because just to test it, I tried also without gasket: I do not know why, but it did not want to go back on
0 2022/10/23 05:36:48
But finally!
But finally!
0 2022/10/23 05:36:51
To be able to refill the transmission fluid, you need to remove the filler plug, which Jag designed such that it is not accessible. And it sits really really tight. Special self-made tool required: A 26mm long cut-off bit from an 8mm Allen key, a solid 8mm spanner and a 30cm long pipe-bit as lever arm.
To be able to refill the transmission fluid, you need to remove the filler plug, which Jag designed such that it is not accessible. And it sits really really tight. Special self-made tool required: A 26mm long cut-off bit from an 8mm Allen key, a solid 8mm spanner and a 30cm long pipe-bit as lever arm.
0 2022/10/23 05:36:53
Here again my special tool with the filler plug removed.
Here again my special tool with the filler plug removed.
0 2022/10/23 05:36:55
...and I removed the upper transmission fluid metal-pipe from the radiator. This can be done without fear that anything would drip out after removing that pipe. I connected a clear tube to that pipe and...
...and I removed the upper transmission fluid metal-pipe from the radiator. This can be done without fear that anything would drip out after removing that pipe. I connected a clear tube to that pipe and...
0 2022/10/23 05:36:58
...secured the hose with a weight (hammer) in a bowl to collect all the old transmission fluid. Letting the engine run, pumps the transmission fluid out by that pipe and hose. Obviously, let the engine run for brief moments only, then youn have to refill the reservoir again (which I had left pump and filler hose connected). The engine on briefly again, and so on until clean transmission fluid is being pumped out. I filled in a total of 14.4L, including the last liter , which I filled after reins
...secured the hose with a weight (hammer) in a bowl to collect all the old transmission fluid. Letting the engine run, pumps the transmission fluid out by that pipe and hose. Obviously, let the engine run for brief moments only, then youn have to refill the reservoir again (which I had left pump and filler hose connected). The engine on briefly again, and so on until clean transmission fluid is being pumped out. I filled in a total of 14.4L, including the last liter , which I filled after reins
0 2022/10/23 05:37:00
Now you can refill the transmission fluid with a handy fluid pump (AU$10, ebay or this week at Aldi)
Now you can refill the transmission fluid with a handy fluid pump (AU$10, ebay or this week at Aldi)
0 2022/10/23 05:37:02
TO ensure the filler hose does not fall out I squeezed it in position with a tube-cut-off. Even though I had removed 5L of fluid (by letting it drip for 3 days), I initially was only able to refill 2.3L (until it came back out by the filler hole). To continue nnow with the full flush, I left the filler hose connected, and...
TO ensure the filler hose does not fall out I squeezed it in position with a tube-cut-off. Even though I had removed 5L of fluid (by letting it drip for 3 days), I initially was only able to refill 2.3L (until it came back out by the filler hole). To continue nnow with the full flush, I left the filler hose connected, and...
0 2022/10/23 05:37:05
Step one: Remove filler bolt with a 3/8" ratchet (without any socket attached). Better than a ratchet would be a "solid" ratchet, i.e. one without that fragile mechanism. I myself use a ratchet, which got damaged a long time ago and I welded the mechanism solid. To that ratchet I attach a long pipe to increase the lever-arm. The picture above is actually from when I tightened the filler bolt again, but to open it, you obviously have to turn it anti-clockwise.
Step one: Remove filler bolt with a 3/8" ratchet (without any socket attached). Better than a ratchet would be a "solid" ratchet, i.e. one without that fragile mechanism. I myself use a ratchet, which got damaged a long time ago and I welded the mechanism solid. To that ratchet I attach a long pipe to increase the lever-arm. The picture above is actually from when I tightened the filler bolt again, but to open it, you obviously have to turn it anti-clockwise.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:16
I use my fluid pump to get the old fluid out of there. I checked youtube, etc. and some seem to suggest that you can simply poke the suction tube in there and remove the oil...
I use my fluid pump to get the old fluid out of there. I checked youtube, etc. and some seem to suggest that you can simply poke the suction tube in there and remove the oil...
0 2022/10/23 21:20:19
Thus I tried that, and I even routed the suction pipe around that beam to be able to get the best access.
Thus I tried that, and I even routed the suction pipe around that beam to be able to get the best access.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:22
But I should have known better: This was a pointless exercise, as it is simply not possible to direct that flexible hose inside the axle into the right position. I guess, I got only about 1/3 of the total oil in there out that way. Note: It is always a good idea to fixate the end of the hose with a ring-spanner - and then best place a weight onto that ring-spanner.
But I should have known better: This was a pointless exercise, as it is simply not possible to direct that flexible hose inside the axle into the right position. I guess, I got only about 1/3 of the total oil in there out that way. Note: It is always a good idea to fixate the end of the hose with a ring-spanner - and then best place a weight onto that ring-spanner.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:24
I do not have access to a junkyard with old cars and surplus pipes, BUT I had an old surplus TV-antenna here: Perfect. I have cut out that bit, which you see above.
I do not have access to a junkyard with old cars and surplus pipes, BUT I had an old surplus TV-antenna here: Perfect. I have cut out that bit, which you see above.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:27
And I fed it into the opening. Very easy.
And I fed it into the opening. Very easy.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:28
And now I can direct the end of the pipe very precisely of there I want to have it.
And now I can direct the end of the pipe very precisely of there I want to have it.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:30
The total amount of oil in the S-Type axle is 1.3L. Above I filled a water bottle for comparison purposes with 1.3L of water and next to it the bottle with the oil I removed from the axle - more than 1.2L. Not bad, I would say. Next I used the pump to fill in the new oil and fitted the filler plug again.
The total amount of oil in the S-Type axle is 1.3L. Above I filled a water bottle for comparison purposes with 1.3L of water and next to it the bottle with the oil I removed from the axle - more than 1.2L. Not bad, I would say. Next I used the pump to fill in the new oil and fitted the filler plug again.
0 2022/10/23 21:20:32
Only after I finished the job, I realized that I could have done one better: To get even the very last bit of oil and dirt out of the rear axle (despite Jaguar fairlure to provide a release plug), I could have done, what I have drawn above: attach my metal pipe (which you have seen in the pictures) to a hose, and that to a solid and airtight jar as in the sketch and connect the second pipe to an old vacuum cleaner... I;ll do that next time.
Only after I finished the job, I realized that I could have done one better: To get even the very last bit of oil and dirt out of the rear axle (despite Jaguar fairlure to provide a release plug), I could have done, what I have drawn above: attach my metal pipe (which you have seen in the pictures) to a hose, and that to a solid and airtight jar as in the sketch and connect the second pipe to an old vacuum cleaner... I;ll do that next time.
0 2022/10/23 21:44:02
I need a strong "battery plus" (= 13.7V approx.) signal to power the DTRL LED lights. So contact 87 on the ignition relay was perfect. If you happen to only find a "weak" signal (I mean on any other car, e.g. a signal coming from the stalk switches), use that signal only to open a relay, which then switches thru a battery plus signal coming from the battery. But I am happy with contact 87, which makes things a bit easier.
I need a strong "battery plus" (= 13.7V approx.) signal to power the DTRL LED lights. So contact 87 on the ignition relay was perfect. If you happen to only find a "weak" signal (I mean on any other car, e.g. a signal coming from the stalk switches), use that signal only to open a relay, which then switches thru a battery plus signal coming from the battery. But I am happy with contact 87, which makes things a bit easier.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:00
This is where the ignition relay is at home.
This is where the ignition relay is at home.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:03
As described above, this is one signal spliced off from the headlight connector, which I need for the relay...
As described above, this is one signal spliced off from the headlight connector, which I need for the relay...
0 2022/10/24 00:00:06
...and this is the other.
...and this is the other.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:08
Both cables need to be properly insulated again.
Both cables need to be properly insulated again.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:11
Those two cables will get connected to those 2 contacts of the coil of a 12V relay. Which cable goes to which side of the coil, does not matter. The ignition ON signal feeds into a fuse (I chose 10A), which goes to the "common" contact of the relay. And the outgoing cable from that relay leaves from the NC contact of the relay, i.e. the :normally closed" contact, so that the DTRL is on, when ignition is on. But if you then switch on low beam, the relay will move its contact over to the NO-contac
Those two cables will get connected to those 2 contacts of the coil of a 12V relay. Which cable goes to which side of the coil, does not matter. The ignition ON signal feeds into a fuse (I chose 10A), which goes to the "common" contact of the relay. And the outgoing cable from that relay leaves from the NC contact of the relay, i.e. the :normally closed" contact, so that the DTRL is on, when ignition is on. But if you then switch on low beam, the relay will move its contact over to the NO-contac
0 2022/10/24 00:00:14
Here is the outgoing cable runing along the fat wiring loom, and in the middle of the bumber this cable gets company: A second cable that I fixed firmly to earth via the bolt to the horn assy.
Here is the outgoing cable runing along the fat wiring loom, and in the middle of the bumber this cable gets company: A second cable that I fixed firmly to earth via the bolt to the horn assy.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:16
And both cable end in this little connector.
And both cable end in this little connector.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:18
I replaced the old fog lights with those fance LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo. Their cables end in the opposing connector to the one in the previous picture.
I replaced the old fog lights with those fance LED fog lights with LED DTRL halo. Their cables end in the opposing connector to the one in the previous picture.
0 2022/10/24 00:00:20
Everything is extremely tight in that area. Thus, I can't properly see it - that picture is from the internet: What is the function of that pulley in the red circle? What is powered via that pulley?
Everything is extremely tight in that area. Thus, I can't properly see it - that picture is from the internet: What is the function of that pulley in the red circle? What is powered via that pulley?
0 2022/10/27 17:33:59
0 2022/11/05 04:34:29
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0 2022/11/05 04:34:38
0 2022/11/05 04:34:40
0 2022/11/05 04:34:42
Those connectors to the ABS speed sensors on the rear axle are a bit tricky to open. The connecots on the left and right are identical, i.e. on one side, the red "pin" need to be pushed outwards, on the other side inwards.
Those connectors to the ABS speed sensors on the rear axle are a bit tricky to open. The connecots on the left and right are identical, i.e. on one side, the red "pin" need to be pushed outwards, on the other side inwards.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:36
This is being done with a screwdriver.
This is being done with a screwdriver.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:38
After that pin has been pushed thru it is extremlu easy to lift the connector off.
After that pin has been pushed thru it is extremlu easy to lift the connector off.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:39
And this is that connector. I measured (with ignition on) the full battery voltage between those 2 pins, which tells me that the wiring is OK.
And this is that connector. I measured (with ignition on) the full battery voltage between those 2 pins, which tells me that the wiring is OK.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:41