Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Here I measure 2.5 Mega Ohm on each of the brand new sensors. One old one measured 0.7MOhm and the other one started the measurement at that same level, but quickly went down to zero MOhm. I assume one or the other was broken. Anyway, I had now the new ones.
Here I measure 2.5 Mega Ohm on each of the brand new sensors. One old one measured 0.7MOhm and the other one started the measurement at that same level, but quickly went down to zero MOhm. I assume one or the other was broken. Anyway, I had now the new ones.
0 2022/11/05 04:36:43
ANNOYINGLY the ABS & Cruise faults were still there. In my extensive research on the net I saw that it is possible that the PCB of the ABS/DSC-module (the elk-test-module ;) ) could have cold welds in need of rewelding. Thus, I actually managed the near impossible to remove the black-box DSC-module from the "octopus", without actually removing any brake-lines...
ANNOYINGLY the ABS & Cruise faults were still there. In my extensive research on the net I saw that it is possible that the PCB of the ABS/DSC-module (the elk-test-module ;) ) could have cold welds in need of rewelding. Thus, I actually managed the near impossible to remove the black-box DSC-module from the "octopus", without actually removing any brake-lines...
0 2022/11/05 04:36:46
...but there is not much point in explaining exactly how I did that, because this was a pointless exercise: On the S-Type that DSC-module cannot be opened and I cannot access the PCB. Thus, I put it straight back in. I think what I saw on the net regarding that PCB must have been on the XJ8...
...but there is not much point in explaining exactly how I did that, because this was a pointless exercise: On the S-Type that DSC-module cannot be opened and I cannot access the PCB. Thus, I put it straight back in. I think what I saw on the net regarding that PCB must have been on the XJ8...
0 2022/11/05 04:36:48
As it is not possible to take a picture of all the pulleys due to the space restriction, and as it really difficult to find a sketch on the net, I created a sketch myself - more a Picasso than a Rembrandt, but it does the trick. I removed the idler pulleys 2, 3 and 6.
As it is not possible to take a picture of all the pulleys due to the space restriction, and as it really difficult to find a sketch on the net, I created a sketch myself - more a Picasso than a Rembrandt, but it does the trick. I removed the idler pulleys 2, 3 and 6.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:16
And this is a picture, where you see how NOT to install the drive belt later on. It is very tempting to do it that way, as it seems more logical, plus, you only note the difference when you see the right and wrong way next to each other. Doing it the wrong way results in less tension on the belt and rubs the belt against itself to the effect that your ears are being blown off...
And this is a picture, where you see how NOT to install the drive belt later on. It is very tempting to do it that way, as it seems more logical, plus, you only note the difference when you see the right and wrong way next to each other. Doing it the wrong way results in less tension on the belt and rubs the belt against itself to the effect that your ears are being blown off...
0 2022/11/08 03:48:19
I had to be inventive and create various "special tools", which would allow be to loosen the hex-bolts of the three idler pulleys. Accessing some from above and some from below - and "below" means: Remove the right frt. wheel (plus I removed the rotor and brake disks for the purpose of cleaning the lot), and then remove the plastic splash shield behind the wheel.
I had to be inventive and create various "special tools", which would allow be to loosen the hex-bolts of the three idler pulleys. Accessing some from above and some from below - and "below" means: Remove the right frt. wheel (plus I removed the rotor and brake disks for the purpose of cleaning the lot), and then remove the plastic splash shield behind the wheel.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:21
...every mm extra space helps: I removed that connector, to get another mm of access-space. And as you can see I created another "special tool" to release the tension by using a "welded solid" 3/8 ratchet and a pipe extension to move the tensioner to the back of the car. There is not sufficient space for a normal ratchet, hence I used mine, which broke a long time ago and I welded the mechanism together (results in less height). HOWEVER, I saw meanwhile, that you do that normally from underneath
...every mm extra space helps: I removed that connector, to get another mm of access-space. And as you can see I created another "special tool" to release the tension by using a "welded solid" 3/8 ratchet and a pipe extension to move the tensioner to the back of the car. There is not sufficient space for a normal ratchet, hence I used mine, which broke a long time ago and I welded the mechanism together (results in less height). HOWEVER, I saw meanwhile, that you do that normally from underneath
0 2022/11/08 03:48:23
That is the cleaned up idler pulley no. 2, already with the new bearing - but you can still see the discoloration at the inner backside: That spot got really hot, while the pulley did not rotate anymore (friction heat).
That is the cleaned up idler pulley no. 2, already with the new bearing - but you can still see the discoloration at the inner backside: That spot got really hot, while the pulley did not rotate anymore (friction heat).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:25
That's how to remove the pulleys.
That's how to remove the pulleys.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:27
Left the bearing of pulley 6, and right of the one, which was stuck completely: No. 2. Both obviously disintegrated already. The bearing of pulley No. 3, the grooved one, did not look that bad, but I swapped it as well - for good measure.
Left the bearing of pulley 6, and right of the one, which was stuck completely: No. 2. Both obviously disintegrated already. The bearing of pulley No. 3, the grooved one, did not look that bad, but I swapped it as well - for good measure.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:29
I did the research at home to make life for the guys at the bearing shop easier: both smooth idler pulley had the same bearing (I found that it is 6203-2rs, they sold me 6203 C 2HRS by FAG), and the grooved one (I found that it is 6303-2rs, they sold me 6303 C 2HRS by FAG).
I did the research at home to make life for the guys at the bearing shop easier: both smooth idler pulley had the same bearing (I found that it is 6203-2rs, they sold me 6203 C 2HRS by FAG), and the grooved one (I found that it is 6303-2rs, they sold me 6303 C 2HRS by FAG).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:31
This would be the easiest and best way to get the new bearing back into the pulleys: A hydraulic press, and I press the new bearing in with the old one on top, and then I remove the old one afterwards again.
This would be the easiest and best way to get the new bearing back into the pulleys: A hydraulic press, and I press the new bearing in with the old one on top, and then I remove the old one afterwards again.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:34
All 3 pulleys are "better" now... ;). Btw.: Since removing the 3 pulleys form the car, I took special care not to mix up the bits and pieces (bolts / washers, etc.) associated with each pulley.
All 3 pulleys are "better" now... ;). Btw.: Since removing the 3 pulleys form the car, I took special care not to mix up the bits and pieces (bolts / washers, etc.) associated with each pulley.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:36
And another "special tool" to fix pulley 6. Btw.: the space is that limited around pulley 2 and 3 that it is possible only to just get a special tool in to loosen or fasten the bolt - the rest of the action (screwing out and in) is best done with the two pointer-fingers of your two hands.
And another "special tool" to fix pulley 6. Btw.: the space is that limited around pulley 2 and 3 that it is possible only to just get a special tool in to loosen or fasten the bolt - the rest of the action (screwing out and in) is best done with the two pointer-fingers of your two hands.
0 2022/11/08 03:48:38
And while others release the tension of the tensioner (when installing the new drive belt) from underneath, I did it from the top, making my "special tool" even more special: After pulling the ratchet via the pipe extension up, I stuck a huge screwdriver into that pipe to arrest the tensioned in that position, which allowed me to very comfortably and slowly bring the drive belt into position (the correct position after 1 failed attempt in the wrong position (see top of thread).
And while others release the tension of the tensioner (when installing the new drive belt) from underneath, I did it from the top, making my "special tool" even more special: After pulling the ratchet via the pipe extension up, I stuck a huge screwdriver into that pipe to arrest the tensioned in that position, which allowed me to very comfortably and slowly bring the drive belt into position (the correct position after 1 failed attempt in the wrong position (see top of thread).
0 2022/11/08 03:48:40
Better!
Better!
0 2022/11/08 03:48:41
Originally this ride-on came in orange - so I just had to respray it - so which colour, if not racing green? ;)
Originally this ride-on came in orange - so I just had to respray it - so which colour, if not racing green? ;)
0 2022/11/10 03:57:59
On the back it says on the left: "This is a (Mazda) E2000", and on the right: "...thus it's an E-Type ;) " and I added the jumping leaper emblem... On the front it says just E2000 and on the right just "E-Type ;) "
On the back it says on the left: "This is a (Mazda) E2000", and on the right: "...thus it's an E-Type ;) " and I added the jumping leaper emblem... On the front it says just E2000 and on the right just "E-Type ;) "
0 2022/11/10 15:17:45
Van
Van
0 2022/11/11 01:32:53
It's a Jag Ute project car
It's a Jag Ute project car
0 2022/11/12 03:47:10
It's a 1976 Jag
It's a 1976 Jag
0 2022/11/12 03:47:12
That's the result... And I just love the Jag-emblem in the middle. My inspiration for that was the Ferrari horse in the same spot on a Ferrari.
That's the result... And I just love the Jag-emblem in the middle. My inspiration for that was the Ferrari horse in the same spot on a Ferrari.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:36
0.4mm stainless steel. First I used cardboard to make a template over the 2 plastic parts (2 attempts), then I transferred the shape onto the stainless steel.
0.4mm stainless steel. First I used cardboard to make a template over the 2 plastic parts (2 attempts), then I transferred the shape onto the stainless steel.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:39
I am not sure if anybody ever attempted before to cut out a tiny circle with an angel-grinder - but it is possible - obviously wear a full face-mask.
I am not sure if anybody ever attempted before to cut out a tiny circle with an angel-grinder - but it is possible - obviously wear a full face-mask.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:41
And when ever doing straight cuts add this "special feature" to reduce vibration.
And when ever doing straight cuts add this "special feature" to reduce vibration.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:44
Double-sided 3M-like clear sticky tape...
Double-sided 3M-like clear sticky tape...
0 2022/11/19 04:55:46
And here we go
And here we go
0 2022/11/19 04:55:48
Again: Stainless steel - this time in woven mesh shape. Cut out a bit in the required size with overlapping ends, which I then had to bend over by hand (pliers) - Result: A missive blister.
Again: Stainless steel - this time in woven mesh shape. Cut out a bit in the required size with overlapping ends, which I then had to bend over by hand (pliers) - Result: A missive blister.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:51
That is it.
That is it.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:54
Fixed onto the bumper from the rear. top and bottom: Added 10mm stainless steel strips
Fixed onto the bumper from the rear. top and bottom: Added 10mm stainless steel strips
0 2022/11/19 04:55:56
Back again to those parts: When attempting to remove the cut out circle to early I accidentally have bent then edge of the stainless steel sheet - and like a fold in paper, this cannot be removed anymore.
Back again to those parts: When attempting to remove the cut out circle to early I accidentally have bent then edge of the stainless steel sheet - and like a fold in paper, this cannot be removed anymore.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:58
Thus, I cut "eyes" to go over the first stainless steel sheet.
Thus, I cut "eyes" to go over the first stainless steel sheet.
0 2022/11/19 04:55:59
And I could not let that stand...: black plastic ribs? No way! I went to the first steel place here in town - they told me that they cannot cut 5mm strips. When I asked why, they looked at me funny. Obviously, they were not too bright. So off the the second steel place: No problem. 5mm means only that they cannot use their automatic stop of their cutter, but have to mark the 5mm by hand. That's all.
And I could not let that stand...: black plastic ribs? No way! I went to the first steel place here in town - they told me that they cannot cut 5mm strips. When I asked why, they looked at me funny. Obviously, they were not too bright. So off the the second steel place: No problem. 5mm means only that they cannot use their automatic stop of their cutter, but have to mark the 5mm by hand. That's all.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:02
Again double sided clear 3M-like sticky tape.
Again double sided clear 3M-like sticky tape.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:04
And I cut those 5mm strips longer, so that I can wedge them in on top and bottom, too. Perfect.
And I cut those 5mm strips longer, so that I can wedge them in on top and bottom, too. Perfect.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:06
Noteworthy: To disconnect the connector ends (for the fog lights) in the bumper, remove (pull out completely) that red wedge, and later (to re-assemble) put it back in.
Noteworthy: To disconnect the connector ends (for the fog lights) in the bumper, remove (pull out completely) that red wedge, and later (to re-assemble) put it back in.
0 2022/11/19 04:56:08
S-Type front view. Actually, when I first re-attached the modified bumper I could not continue putting all those bolts back into position. I was so in awe. In full grip of the beauty in front of me. I just had to keep staring at it...
S-Type front view. Actually, when I first re-attached the modified bumper I could not continue putting all those bolts back into position. I was so in awe. In full grip of the beauty in front of me. I just had to keep staring at it...
0 2022/11/19 04:56:10
I hope you noticed the chrome bezels around those 4 headlights - they are a must in my opinion. Here you see the other stuff I had to have: side-indicator chrome bezels, B-pillar and C-Pillar Chrome covers, tail-light chrome bezels....
I hope you noticed the chrome bezels around those 4 headlights - they are a must in my opinion. Here you see the other stuff I had to have: side-indicator chrome bezels, B-pillar and C-Pillar Chrome covers, tail-light chrome bezels....
0 2022/11/19 04:56:12
And here one more picture for the road...
And here one more picture for the road...
0 2022/11/19 04:56:15
...and another one...
...and another one...
0 2022/11/19 04:56:17