I replaced my alternator and now the car will crank but not turn on. The battery is at voltage, the inertia switch is checked. My wires are brand new and the grounds at the power steering pump and alternator bracket are clean and snug. My key fob still works as it should and the only code on my engine light is a P1000. There is no water or damage near the ECM. The car ran well before the replacement. Never had any issues. I tried searching and I see a few about an immobilizer but I am not sure how to approach this.

I was trying to see my family this week coming up, unfortunately I won't be able to now.

Any ideas?

2002 Jaguar X-Type Manual 5-speed.

 

I narrowed it down to a gas issue. I spray starting fluid and it starts fine. There is no fuel pressure at the schrader valve. Which fuse or relay has damaged between the disconnecting of the battery for the alternator replacement?

This seems like it might be a common issue.

 

I checked fuse F81 mini 20 amp for fuel pump module and it was fine. No burns or breaks.

 

Not trying to be flip, but there's gas in the tank, yes? Hope it's not your case but I just went through fuel pump and sender replacement in my 07 Mercedes. Car ran fine one day then crank no start the next. Direct gauge on Schrader valve showed no pressure. Changed fuel pump relay to no avail, so off to shop she went for an expensive repair. Jaguar cheaped out and didn't put an fuel pump access panel in these cars, so if you end up having to replace the pump it's a tank drop or cutting through the floor to get to it.

 

Oh boy, Yes the tank is 3/4 ways filled. I was looking at the fuel pump. It is a whole assembly and I want to just buy the little pump. Do these fuel pump assemblies come apart?

 

Part number for the fuel pump is C2S33496. They're expensive, so you might check eBay for alternatives. The pump was assembled from pieces so while it may come apart I think the hard part might be sourcing the pump itself. On second thought I'll bet it's a standard piece, as there's millions of cars produced with the same in-tank pump design. I wish you luck, as just getting to the pump looks to be difficult. Electrical diagram in my Haynes manual wasn't much help locating the fuel pump relay. I think it's in the engine compartment, but maybe Thermo can help with advice.

 

I got the fuel pump alone from a company in Florida, they have an ebay seller's account as well. They have it listed as GA1201 and it works for Mazda Ford and Jaguar. it was $20 bucks and comes with the two strainers. The assembly itself comes apart with 4 screws that hold the module together. The fuel pump needs to put out between 90-110 psi for the engine to run correctly.

I had to cut a door on my Jaguar and I am sad about that but the machine shop is going to take the piece I cut out and put hinges and a lip on it. I also used edge guard trim with emblem sealant on the sharp edges on the floor pan. The door, when finished, should fit like a glove. I will try to capture some pictures for future reference. Hopefully I don't get too much heat for cutting the car. lol

 

Where'd you get that 90-110psi figure from? Pressure I'm more accustomed seeing for port FI engines is 50-60psi. Nice job on the "trap door." Put up a pic or two when done.

 

I will get you the pictures once everything is buttoned up. Well the 90-110 psi is from the pump, but the regulator will lower that. You don't want a pump putting out 60psi to go to a regulator of the same value, it can cause aeration in the fuel. Usually the pumps put out more as a rule of thumb. Some cars even have a fuel damper AND a regulator for security.

I changed the fuel filter out as well, and believe it or not, this thing literally had black particles pouring out like mud. I disconnected the fuel line at the engine and fuel pump and blew 40 psi of air through it to clear it. This pump failed from overheating for sure, no way fuel could have made it to the engine.

 

I forgot to answer your question, the reason I had a figure of 90-110psi is because the Mazda Ford and Jaguar all have different operating PSI, so on the high side some Fords require a higher psi pump like my old Ranger. My older Mazda needed a 90 PSI pump to run correctly at 67PSI. The pump I purchased mentions it is for all three companies. So my assumption was that it had met the range requirement of all three engines because it was compatible for all three. The fuel module itself is different but the pump trapped in all that pretty plastic framing is the same.

I could be wrong, but a little educated guess allows me to believe it runs in that range. Over years Fuel pumps do lose pressure, so companies compensate that by raising the pressure beyond the requirements of the engine. They also take into account that a regulator will limit the psi directly. The fuel pump acts as a one way valve, and the regulator won't let anything pass that doesn't meet that PSI level or it will but it drops dramatically until the line has air in it. That keeps the lines pressurized even when the car is off to prevent aeration which causes shorter life spans of fuel components.

Then again, I could be wrong, but what do I know... I am just a good guesser.

 

The most common cause of fuel pump failure on modern in-tank pumps is indeed overheating - and that is caused by not having enough fuel in the tank to cool the pump. Running the tank repeatedly down to near-empty is a pretty good method of ensuring pump failure. The problem is that manufacturers do not tell us about this...

 

I bought this car a few months ago, I got it from the owner on E, go figure haha.