Front hub question
#1
Front hub question
I suspect I have a bad right front hub bearing. Turning right at highway speed I get a fair bit of groan and it's definitely coming from the front end. I just put new wheels on the car over the weekend and based on appearance of the hubs, the left side hub has been replaced sometime recently and a small amount of rust was forming on the wheel studs of the right side so I'm assuming it is original. The car has 75k miles on it now. I've never had a bearing problem on a car before so I am not well versed with this exact issue. Am I at least on the right path?
On top of that is there any problem here going aftermarket? I'm looking at Beck-Arnley and Timken. The OEM hub assembly is more than twice the price.
Thanks in advance everyone.
On top of that is there any problem here going aftermarket? I'm looking at Beck-Arnley and Timken. The OEM hub assembly is more than twice the price.
Thanks in advance everyone.
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Hi Torrid,
You may be able to determine if the problem is with the wheel bearing by conducting a couple of basic tests. Raise the front right corner with a jack until the tire is off the ground (the Workshop Manual says you should raise both the front and rear corners to avoid torquing the aluminum monocoque).
Grasp the tire at 12:00 and 6:00 and alternately push and pull with each hand to test for any detectable movement in the wheel (the rubber tire may deflect a little, but it's wheel play you're looking for). Spin the wheel and listen for any grinding or other noises (brake pad drag, for example). If you're unsure, raise the left front corner and repeat the tests on that wheel and compare its behavior to the right one. Jagaur lists the hub & bearing as an assembly - I don't know if the bearings can be replaced, but hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
On top of that is there any problem here going aftermarket? I'm looking at Beck-Arnley and Timken. The OEM hub assembly is more than twice the price.
Cheers,
Don
#3
#4
Join Date: Feb 2014
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They're probably the same part. I just checked the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) which you can download from this forum. You can also look up the correct part numbers at jaguarmerriamparts.com or jaguargaudinparts.com. Please let us know what you find!
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 09-19-2014 at 11:15 PM.
#6
#7
The hub/bearing is a sealed part
the new hub comes with the abs sensor and studs
Once you have the brakes and backing plate off you remove the hub bolts and the hub. Replacement is the opposite
See here
The only hassle you may have is getting the hub bolts off. A good rattle gun and some penetrating fluid will do the job.
By a good rattle gun i mean one that is approaching 1000 ftlbs. I have the CP7748 that will do it easily
CP7748 ½? composite impact wrench - Chicago Pneumatic Corporate site
CP Rodcraft 1 2" AIR Impact Wrench Valued $499 | eBay
I have to do my XJR soon but cant see how you would just replace the bearing on the hub. Im moving interstate so it is one of those jobs i've been holding off till after the move plus ill be putting in a 2 post car host at the new house to make life easy. BTW intersate here in Oz means a 750 mile move
When I do the hubs i will also rebuild the suspension replacing all the common parts that wear in the front end. Makes sense to do it while its all apart
Keeping in mind the hub setup is not like older cars that have a stub axle. A stub that holds a pair of bearings, the disk goes over this and retained by a nut. The studs are attached to the disk. Our cars use a hub that the disk goes over so when you take the wheel off the disk is only held in place by the calipers
If you could remove the bearing from the hub and press in a new one I don't think you would get the correct alignment. It may be possible with careful measuring but would need a new hub to get the measurements from.
The time and hassle would not be worth it. Think of the hub assembly as a big bolt on bearing and what you are talking about is not pressing a bearing but rebuilding the internals of a bearing.
I would not consider this at all for the simple reason as the bearing you are replacing keeps the wheel on!!
If something goes wrong you will loose the wheel or wheels along with the brake caliper and disk and its going to get ugly from there really quickly. If it separates the only thing retaining the wheel will be the the tie rod.
Its not a few dollars Im willing to save at the risk of my and others safety.
Just replace the hub and while you are at it replace the common parts that wear in the front suspension
Cheers
34by151
the new hub comes with the abs sensor and studs
Once you have the brakes and backing plate off you remove the hub bolts and the hub. Replacement is the opposite
See here
The only hassle you may have is getting the hub bolts off. A good rattle gun and some penetrating fluid will do the job.
By a good rattle gun i mean one that is approaching 1000 ftlbs. I have the CP7748 that will do it easily
CP7748 ½? composite impact wrench - Chicago Pneumatic Corporate site
CP Rodcraft 1 2" AIR Impact Wrench Valued $499 | eBay
I have to do my XJR soon but cant see how you would just replace the bearing on the hub. Im moving interstate so it is one of those jobs i've been holding off till after the move plus ill be putting in a 2 post car host at the new house to make life easy. BTW intersate here in Oz means a 750 mile move
When I do the hubs i will also rebuild the suspension replacing all the common parts that wear in the front end. Makes sense to do it while its all apart
Keeping in mind the hub setup is not like older cars that have a stub axle. A stub that holds a pair of bearings, the disk goes over this and retained by a nut. The studs are attached to the disk. Our cars use a hub that the disk goes over so when you take the wheel off the disk is only held in place by the calipers
If you could remove the bearing from the hub and press in a new one I don't think you would get the correct alignment. It may be possible with careful measuring but would need a new hub to get the measurements from.
The time and hassle would not be worth it. Think of the hub assembly as a big bolt on bearing and what you are talking about is not pressing a bearing but rebuilding the internals of a bearing.
I would not consider this at all for the simple reason as the bearing you are replacing keeps the wheel on!!
If something goes wrong you will loose the wheel or wheels along with the brake caliper and disk and its going to get ugly from there really quickly. If it separates the only thing retaining the wheel will be the the tie rod.
Its not a few dollars Im willing to save at the risk of my and others safety.
Just replace the hub and while you are at it replace the common parts that wear in the front suspension
Cheers
34by151
Last edited by 34by151; 09-16-2014 at 07:26 PM.
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#8
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+1 on the general consensus being its a hub replacement rather than a bearing.
I don't know for sure, but assume it probably can be done, however, generally all the time and faffing about means that for a few ££ / $$ more its much quicker and easier to replace the bub assy
Did this recently on my wifes Passat and my SIL's Ford Mondeo, fairly quick and painless
I don't know for sure, but assume it probably can be done, however, generally all the time and faffing about means that for a few ££ / $$ more its much quicker and easier to replace the bub assy
Did this recently on my wifes Passat and my SIL's Ford Mondeo, fairly quick and painless
#9
#10
#11
A bearing supplier would have the whole hub assembly?
The one place that has the part I want doesn't understand the logic of how I'm arriving at the Timken assembly fitting my car. I'm just going to buy the Beck Arnley from the place that guarantees fitment. The growling right turns are driving me crazy.
The one place that has the part I want doesn't understand the logic of how I'm arriving at the Timken assembly fitting my car. I'm just going to buy the Beck Arnley from the place that guarantees fitment. The growling right turns are driving me crazy.
#12
OK, but make sure it really is the bearings before replacing. These hubs can be a real PITA to dismantle due to the steel of the hub, and the aluminium of the hub carrier, (or upright), being in close contact. Plenty of release fluid, and maybe a kettle or two of boiling water to expand the aluminium.
#13
OK, but make sure it really is the bearings before replacing. These hubs can be a real PITA to dismantle due to the steel of the hub, and the aluminium of the hub carrier, (or upright), being in close contact. Plenty of release fluid, and maybe a kettle or two of boiling water to expand the aluminium.
#14
Join Date: Nov 2009
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From the information that I have have read on this site I have decided that if one of my
wheel bearings fail I will pay a mechanic to loosen the four nuts on the hub with his
impact wrench,tighten them to about the same torque as the wheel nuts and then I will
drive it home to replace the hub.
"BTW intersate here in Oz means a 750 mile move"
34by151 Hope you are coming to Melbourne so that I can borrow your tools. LOL
wheel bearings fail I will pay a mechanic to loosen the four nuts on the hub with his
impact wrench,tighten them to about the same torque as the wheel nuts and then I will
drive it home to replace the hub.
"BTW intersate here in Oz means a 750 mile move"
34by151 Hope you are coming to Melbourne so that I can borrow your tools. LOL
Last edited by meirion1; 09-17-2014 at 05:39 PM.
#15
Yes just quote the Timkin part number
It will look like this NEW Wheel HUB AND Bearing Assembly Front Pair 2 | eBay
Cheers
34by151
It will look like this NEW Wheel HUB AND Bearing Assembly Front Pair 2 | eBay
Cheers
34by151
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Don B (09-17-2014)
#16
If you dont have access to a rattle gun use a breaker bar an if needed a long pipe over the handle
Either way soak it in penetrating oil for an hour or so first
Sorry Meirion1, im heading the other direction, we are looking at acreage in the Glass House Mountains so the move is about 1000km. Moving the tools is a must but will have to get rid of machinery (mill, lathe ect) but on the plus side gives me an excuse to buy new ones!!!
Cheers
34by151
#17
So I've heard talk that two of the bolts are Torx and the other two are hex bolts. Can I get some confirmation on this and sizes needed? I'll definitely need to buy a bit if it needs a Torx. I needed to take a 300 mile trip possibly next week, but I'm trying to put it off until I get the hub replaced. I don't know what happens when one fully fails, but I'm trying to minimize use of the car so I don't have to find out.
#18
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Hi Torrid,
See the second photo in the album at the link below for an example of what can happen when a hub overheats and fails:
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Cheers,
Don
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