Hello everyone
I am new to the this forum, I bought 2001 XJ8 with 155K for good price , it needed the tranny rebuilt , I had had rebuilt ("A" Drum was bad) when I pick the car from the shop, it was idling rough and check engine like was one I did read the code it was P0174 BANK 2 too lean and P0172 too rich bank 1, I drove the car home I which I live over 120 miles away from shop, on way home the PR lights keep flashing and then would go off about 7 times, When PR light would come on the car it seems would run better, when the light would go off the ran worst! I had hard time at times to go over 50-60 mph, when I got home I did read the code again this time it was P0301, P0302, P304, P1313, P1376, P1000. I took the car the independent local Jaguar dealer, he informed me it seems to be timing chain tensionenor on the driver side ready to fail, and I need to change it,the previous owner told she thought she changed that ,but not sure, anyway due to lack of fund I told him I would need to save up my money, when I got home from shop , I decided that I would give ago of timing chain, took off both covers then saw it has been changed to new style !!!, Then I thought may plugs or coil packs where bad, I replaced all plugs and ( my cousin has Jag too same year) used this coil packs and start the car, the same code!!!I called the Jag shop again, he told me it seems the timing is off, on the drive side I am confused , don't know where to go, can any one tell me how correct timing? or how clear these codes? any help would be great thank you.

 

Did the car ever run normally in your possession?

While the P0301-304 would appear to be coil packs, the P1376 does, indeed indicate an early activation fault on cylinder 6. Funny, that code is not in the Jaguar JTIS OBD code list for any year but I did find it with a internet search. Perhaps the tensioner job did not leave the right bank in time.

Timing involves aligning the flex plate timing hole and the flats on the intake and exhaust cams. Normally something that is done when installing the new tensioner. The sprocket to exhaust cam connection is a friction fit without any key or splines to align therefore can be any amount of out of time, plus or minus from specs.

. . . and welcome to the forum . . . lots of new members this weekend.

 

Thank you , my bad it is not P1316 rather P1316, also when I bought the car, on two different times I did run it for about 15-20 minutes without any problems or rough idle. So you think all three coil packs could go bad the same time? or rather timing issue? or?????? Also can some one tell me if you are sitting on driver seat looking forward , is the cylinder 4,3,2,1 and passenger side is 8,7,6,5? is this correct? I am assuming it can't be timing because the car was running good before the tranny went south and also it look like the timing chain tensionenor was replaced while back because the plastic part is sort of red color due to age, so timing could NOT out, unless the timing chain tensionenor is falling , can someone tell me if these new third gen tensionenor has faulty too? Do i need to change it again, Thanks

 

2001 jag did not have bad tensioners

 

At least from all I read it was 97 98 99 and 2000

 

Thank you for the replies, it build date 11/00 and it was sold in 2001, so I think it make it 2000 rather 2001, Am I incorrect?

 

Hello
The 2001 XJ8 did have plastic tensioners and our did fail at about 80,000 miles. In fact both the secondary and primary plastic tensioners had cracks in the plastic tensioners parts. Our Jaguar put in service date was in August 2001.

Jim Lombardi

 

I think mine was changed at one point I don't think it would last 155K with org. one, any input on I did read the code again this time it was P0301, P0302, P304, P1313 and what could make it run so rough on idle? It seems it is running on 4 or 5 cylinders, this morning when I took for test drive for brief minutes it ran great, that is why I was thinking may be it is timing issues or ????? any input it would be great, thanks

 

Luke, did you say the plastic part on the tensioner was red due to age? If you mean the slipper that the chain runs over, that may be ok, but the body of the tensioner must be metal to be of the newer style. I think there have been 2 upgrades to the tensioners over time. However, if your car has over 150k on it, it would be a small miracle to be on the original problematic ones. If they are plastic... replace them. If they are metal, I would put a stethoscope on the cam cover bolts up front near the chains and have a good listen. If the chains are rattling, chances are you have a problem there. I think I have read in the forum that even the second generation tensioners have had issues. If you are not sure, compare the sound to your cousin's car. You will hear slight clicking with the stethoscope, but not a serious rattle. If you have a distinctive noise, I would not run the engine much longer. Generally, if they are really on the verge of failure, you will not need a stethoscope, but I would listen with one.

Did it run rough as soon as you drove away from the shop with it? You would think they would have road tested and at least alerted you to the trouble.

This is a bit of a long shot, but one other thing that could cause rough idle is that perhaps the crank sensor may have been disturbed when they put in the new transmission. If for some reason they took it out, perhaps it got put in improperly, or got dirt on it, or not bolted back in place. It is easy to check from underneath. The crank position sensor may throw codes that relate to it, but if it is running as you describe, I would think it could send off many misfire /timing type codes.

One of the real expert techs on the forum may have better insight into what the issue is.

The best of luck to you.

 

Thank JWT for the info, when I removed the cover and looked the the tensioner was red due to age and yes the body was metal I think it must be aluminum I took some photos , but don't know how to post it here but here the link for them
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09522.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09535.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09532.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09525.jpg

Yes it started with PR and only P0172 and P0174 code, they thought it was vacuum leak they look for it but no luck and on way home the rest code started to come in , So you think it could be CPS? I will give look tomorrow morning, I understand it is under the car right in front of the gear box bell housing is this correct? Also can some one tell me if you are sitting on driver seat looking forward , is the cylinder 4,3,2,1 and passenger side is 8,7,6,5? is this correct? Many thanks

 

Yes those are the newer tensioners and they seem to be in pretty decent shape. At least the slippers do not seem to have much wear on them. I can't say if they are second or third generation.

The crank sensor is right in front of the bell housing tucked up near the steering rack at the centre of the car. I believe it has a single wire running to it and it is secured with an 8 or 9 mm bolt. You could try unbolting it and checking to make sure it is not covered in grease, oil or dirt and then reposition it. I had somewhat similar symptoms, and that seemed to cure mine, but I had mainly just a rough idle. If I recall correctly it ran ok at higher rpm. It is kind of a long shot and the transmission shop probably would not need to touch it, but it is very close to where they would bolt up the transmission.
These things can be aggravating, so hope you find a fix without too much grief.

 

Bank and cylinder numbering can be found here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...linder-ids-jpg

Also check the Cam Position Sensors located at the rear of each valve cover. Does sound like it could be something disturbed by the transmission removal.

Several posts back you say " . . . my bad it is not P1316 rather P1316 . . . ." Wanta try again?

 

Thank you for heads up JWT and test point, will give it look in morning and I am hoping this take care the problem.

PS Test point I post it the code in error I wrote P1376 (typo error) , but the code was P1316.

 

Hey guys,
Thanks for all your replies helping new member
I appreciate that

 

The P1316 makes a lot more sense! Here is the problem chart associated with it. I would start with the injectors as they could be doing strange things if they are original at 155k miles. They probably justify removal and professional cleaning and testing.

 

Update, I was sure so I did cylinder compression test on all the cylinders
Cylinder
1 180 Lbs 5 165 Lbs
2 180 Lbs 6 164 Lbs
3 174 Lbs 7 174 Lbs
4 185 Lbs 8 185 Lbs

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ul/photo28.jpg

So my mind is clear is NOT low compression problem, but still the code I did clear all the codes and took for short spin, well got PR and some old codes and some new one!
P1638
P1642
P0302
P0304
P1316
P1000
P1637
P1643

Any idea?????? thanks

 

This my car with problem at the moment, but love the color combo
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09545.jpg

 

This is my car with problem at the moment, but love the color combo I am hoping to take care the problems soon, with too much $$$$

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09545.jpg

 

Your model year, in the US, is determined by the VIN designation and the corresponding EPA decal on the left shock tower. Jaguar officially changes year designations in August although my '02 was manufactured in June '01. I have seen cars with manufacture dates as early as April labeled as the following year model year.

 

I agree the title saying 2001, but the built say 11/00, There is photo
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/DSC09508.jpg