Help Trunk/boot/luggage compantment stuck locked
#1
Help Trunk/boot/luggage compantment stuck locked
As the title says I can't get the luggage compartment on my new to me XJS coupe open. I took my son to his birthday party when leaving threw his presents in there and after getting home I can't get it to unlock. Have tried the key and the electric lock... ANY suggestions would be hugely appreciated !!!
#2
well I finally got it open using the screwdriver through the license plate hole trick.. ( thanks Robo5555 for that !! ) Now I have to see what is causing the black plastic handle to remain stuck locked. Squirted a bit of PB blaster on the moving parts but no avail.. will have to find a diagram disassemble and figure it out
#3
My go to for locks is always graphite lubricant. A decent hardware store will carry a spray bottle of the stuff (and you have to be careful, because even with the tube in the slot, it's going to spray everywhere.) Graphite has saved me so many times it's unreal.
I don't know if my miracle cure is going to work if the electric mechanism isn't working either, though... Can you tell us more about its behavior? Does the key turn at all? Does the electric mechanism make any unusual noises?
I don't know if my miracle cure is going to work if the electric mechanism isn't working either, though... Can you tell us more about its behavior? Does the key turn at all? Does the electric mechanism make any unusual noises?
#4
the key sort of works wants to stick at the 90 degree but with some fidgeting can get it to go the whole 180 the electrical mechanism "sounds" like it's working ..but the black plastic handle you push upward to release the latch is flat stuck locked unable to move it regardless of electric or key position.
I don't believe that graphite would help I've also often used it on stuck tumblers but I don't believe that is the issue here. Like I said what i really need is to find a blow out diagram of the assembly pull it apart and figure out which piece has gotten lazy and sleeping on the job so to speak.
I don't believe that graphite would help I've also often used it on stuck tumblers but I don't believe that is the issue here. Like I said what i really need is to find a blow out diagram of the assembly pull it apart and figure out which piece has gotten lazy and sleeping on the job so to speak.
Last edited by 93blkcat; 11-09-2014 at 10:46 PM. Reason: add info
#5
PB is good stuff too. When I was doing my door handle repair, I actually had to take a break to clean some tools that had somehow gotten seized. I used PB to break up the corrosion, and graphite to protect the moving parts.
Let us know what you find back there. In the meantime, I've got to go google this "license plate hole trick."
Let us know what you find back there. In the meantime, I've got to go google this "license plate hole trick."
#6
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-trunk-59231/
original post where I got info
Allows you to move the bar that actually operates the catch and bypass everything else
original post where I got info
Allows you to move the bar that actually operates the catch and bypass everything else
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orangeblossom (11-10-2014),
Stargazer XJS (11-09-2014)
#8
Join Date: Apr 2014
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orangeblossom (11-10-2014)
#9
93blkcat,
You need to read through the drivers manual. The key is not supposed to turn 180 degrees from the vertical. It is only supposed to turn 90 degrees anti-clockwise and clockwise from the vertical position. If you've turned it 180 degrees you may have now turned the whole barrel mechanism inside it's housing.
With the key slot in the vertical position, the lock should be in sync with the remote locking system. If you want the lock unlocked without unlocking the car, turn the key 90 degrees a-c and then back to the vertical. This puts the lock to the unlocked position and the black lever should now press to open the latch.
If you turn the key 90 degrees clockwise from the vertical and remove the key in that position, then it locks the lever and isolates it from the remote locking system. To put it back in sync, insert the key and turn it back to vertical, then 90 degrees a-c, then back to vertical. The lock is now unlocked but back in sync with the c/l.
As I said, if you're now able to turn the key 180 degrees from the vertical position, it sounds as if you've messed up the barrel position. If you can't get everything back in position with the key, I would remove the lock from the rear. There are two bolts which hold it in position. A bit fiddly to get to. Take a pic or two with your phone first so you can see the alignment of the rod and lock position.
The c/l can get a bit lazy and sometimes doesn't unlock the boot but run it through a few cycles and it often just sorts it out.
Good luck
Paul
You need to read through the drivers manual. The key is not supposed to turn 180 degrees from the vertical. It is only supposed to turn 90 degrees anti-clockwise and clockwise from the vertical position. If you've turned it 180 degrees you may have now turned the whole barrel mechanism inside it's housing.
With the key slot in the vertical position, the lock should be in sync with the remote locking system. If you want the lock unlocked without unlocking the car, turn the key 90 degrees a-c and then back to the vertical. This puts the lock to the unlocked position and the black lever should now press to open the latch.
If you turn the key 90 degrees clockwise from the vertical and remove the key in that position, then it locks the lever and isolates it from the remote locking system. To put it back in sync, insert the key and turn it back to vertical, then 90 degrees a-c, then back to vertical. The lock is now unlocked but back in sync with the c/l.
As I said, if you're now able to turn the key 180 degrees from the vertical position, it sounds as if you've messed up the barrel position. If you can't get everything back in position with the key, I would remove the lock from the rear. There are two bolts which hold it in position. A bit fiddly to get to. Take a pic or two with your phone first so you can see the alignment of the rod and lock position.
The c/l can get a bit lazy and sometimes doesn't unlock the boot but run it through a few cycles and it often just sorts it out.
Good luck
Paul
Last edited by ptjs1; 11-10-2014 at 08:41 AM.
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orangeblossom (11-10-2014)
#10
I may have been confusing in my wording. When the locks are engaged I can insert the key horizontally and turn to the vertical or 90 degree position then with some fiddling can get it the other 90 degrees to the horizontal cc position per owners manual. But it's possible something is messed up in the barrel configuration for sure. Unfortunately tomorrow is my day off and high is supposed to be 17 f
#11
93blkcat,
If you are inserting the key in the horizontal position (and assuming barrel isn't misaligned), then the lock is already in the isolated locked position and won't work with the c/l remote. As mentioned, to be sure that it's synced to the c/l, turn a-c to the 9 o'clock horizontal then back clockwise to vertical. It's then unlocked and synced to c/l.
Paul
If you are inserting the key in the horizontal position (and assuming barrel isn't misaligned), then the lock is already in the isolated locked position and won't work with the c/l remote. As mentioned, to be sure that it's synced to the c/l, turn a-c to the 9 o'clock horizontal then back clockwise to vertical. It's then unlocked and synced to c/l.
Paul
#12
So finally got above freezing. And the last poster had the right of it. I ended up taking a small screwdriver and rotating the lock inside the barrel ( terminology may be incorrect ). Then flipping the drive key ( one with the flashlight ) " upside down " was able to go from horizontal cc 180 degrees to horizontal then back cw 90 degrees and remove the key . Now the handle locks with power locks. I plan in leaving it in this configuration as I never see a time I need the boot locked and the doors unlocked. Thanks all for the help!
Last edited by 93blkcat; 11-19-2014 at 09:01 PM.
#13
Bootlock issues
well I finally got it open using the screwdriver through the license plate hole trick.. ( thanks Robo5555 for that !! ) Now I have to see what is causing the black plastic handle to remain stuck locked. Squirted a bit of PB blaster on the moving parts but no avail.. will have to find a diagram disassemble and figure it out
Did you ever find a diagram ?
I have a 1992 XJ6 3.2, couldn't unlock the boot with the key or using a screwdriver through the slot behind the number plate.
Ended up getting a locksmith out, in the end he removed the rear bumper bar and drilled out the bolts on the striker. This is no problem as I can get new bolts.
My issue is the lock barrel is fine but the locking mechanism has parts dislodged on it, been trying to find a diagram of how it should go together and work. My other drama is getting the locking mechanism out to work on it, any ideas.
Thanks
#14
#15
I'd love to have a trunk release button! Keep me posted on any progress!
i just assumed the two cutouts was to have the valet switch on either side, for RHD and LHD cars.
I currently have an antenna kill switch installed there for when I'm listening to SiriusXM, MP3, CD, etc. Something that requires the radio to be on, but no use for an antenna.
i just assumed the two cutouts was to have the valet switch on either side, for RHD and LHD cars.
I currently have an antenna kill switch installed there for when I'm listening to SiriusXM, MP3, CD, etc. Something that requires the radio to be on, but no use for an antenna.
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Benj628 (01-30-2017)
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