I took my new XJS for a 30 minute drive today. After 30 minutes of driving I went onto some streets with stop lights after a few stop lights the temp climbed a little. Not really knowing this car yet I am not sure what is normal and what I should be concerned about. These are the things I was noticing:

1) The temp climbed above the N but did not get to the H. Is that normal after driving it on the highway then waiting at some stop lights? Pictures included
2) I filled the tank and found the gas gauge only went to 3/4 of a tank. Is that normal behavior for these? I am thinking probably not.
3) I noticed while idling at lights or just idling the oil pressure looks pretty low. Picture included. Is this pressure normal or is this a concern?

Thanks in advance for advice from experienced owners.

 

A couple more pictures

 

Not normal and should be attended to right away. First suspects would be a fan clutch or radiator needing attention.


Unsure. Never been an issue for me, but you may have to fill up a few times and see what is normal. On the convertible with the Lemans type cap, the auto-shutoff on some gas pumps will go off before the tank is full.


That's typical, I believe there is a section in Kirby's book about that.

 

Glad I asked. Has anyone here used this radiator from CATCooler?

Jaguar XJS V12 cooling solutions. Aluminum super duty radiators, high flow fan systems, coolant filters and replacement parts

The CatCooler Jaguar XJS V12 Super Duty OEM Style Aluminum Radiator from V12 Performance

They say they are the first and only direct fit radiator. Seems pricy but if it would actually be a drop in no hassle solution might be worth it. Anyone here tried it?

I have the 1988 XJS.

 

A lot of people here have had some problems with that vendor.

 

Oil pressure looks ok for idle, it should go up with revs.

Fuel gauge - mine does this most likely the sender in the tank is bent.

Temperature - I would attend to this. ALL V12 jaguars that have not been maintained will overheat. I agree with Mac that first suspect would be fan clutch. You can test this with a warm engine FULL UP TO TEMP, lift the bonnet and have someone turn the engine off the fan should stop almost immediately, if it spins its bad.

 

As others say, this merits action.

First, though, I'd use a hand-held infra red thermometer to get readings at the thermostat housings to get an idea of actual coolant temperature. The gauges on these cars can be flakey and readings can vary a lot. "Top of the N" might be 190ºF on one car, 210ºF on the other, and 180ºF on the third.

I agree about the possibility of a fan clutch but, since almost all of these cooling systems suffer from neglect, and since the car is new to you, I'd seriously consider removing the radiator for professional cleaning and replacing the thermostats (making sure to get the right ones), replacing any iffy hoses, cleaning clogged small pipes/hoses, and wrapping up with proper system bleeding. This is one of those areas, IMHO, where it's really best (and easiest) to do all, do it right, do it once. The alternative...ala carte treatment.... just extends the misery, so to speak.

And bear in mind that it isn't just temperature you need to worry about. It is equally important, or even more important, to ensure full *flow* thru the entire system. An air pocket or debris clog will create a local hot spot....which can lead to the dreaded dropped valve seats just as easily as excessive coolant temp.

Cheers
DD

 

Any recommendations on where to get a new fan clutch? Seems to be the first item to replace.

 

Any of 'the usual Jag suppliers' can get one for you. Coventry West, SNG Barrat, Motorcars Ltd., etc

Or even your local neighborhood parts store, such as this one from NAPA

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Cheers
DD

 

The fuel gauge is reading low probably for one of two reasons:
The sender in the tank (behind the spare wheel) is getting lazy, or
The actual gauge is getting very slightly corroded. The Palm book is very good on the gauge and how it worked. MY gauge never was really Ok until I took it all apart and did the Palm cleaning procedure.


BUT I do not recommend doing this until you have done everything else the others have recommended, as the dash stuff is very delicate and you can create more problems than you solve. Particularly pulling out the rad and renewing it or cleaning and checking it anyway, renewing the fan clutch, renewing the hoses. Overheating is about the only thing that will destroy a V12 mechanically. If you do need a new rad, the easiest thing is to get your original recored.
Greg

 

Thanks. I did not realize some parts like this were so readily available. Sounds great.

 

My tank ran dry while reading 3/8 tank yesterday. Probably the sender. It been a problem for a while but is getting worse

 

Based on my limited experience and reading only - my oil pressure goes real low at idle also, not as low since I started using 20w-50 oil but still looks low - from what I've read that's pretty normal. (my Harley was like that too).

That temp is higher than mine ever went but as others have said these gauges can't be assumed to be accurate. I wouldn't panic but do agree getting the cooling system to a known good condition isis a priority. Maybe even more so with these jaguars but I've been through that with other cars too and its time well spent too get it right.

 

Based on my limited experience and reading only - my oil pressure goes real low at idle also, not as low since I started using 20w-50 oil but still looks low - from what I've read that's pretty normal. (my Harley was like that too).

That temp is higher than mine ever went but as others have said these gauges can't be assumed to be accurate. I wouldn't panic but do agree getting the cooling system to a known good condition isis a priority. Maybe even more so with these jaguars but I've been through that with other cars too and its time well spent too get it right.

 

I really appreciate the replies. After reading them and carefully reading Kirby Palm's book on the XJS. I decided not to even drive the car and had it towed to the repair shop. I understand now that temperature was very high for this car and the cooling system is in great need of repair. My guess is it needs multiple things to be safe to drive and enjoy. I am glad there is a forum like this so I didn't just drive it and ruin it. The dream is on hold but still alive. At least the tow truck driver said she was a beauty.

 

Total Bummer. I had the XJS towed to where I purchased it. They said they checked everything out and they said the fans work, they said the radiator works. They said they can try putting a couple of thermostats in it and flushing the system. But, they are up to $900 in charges. The shop lead told me that the temp guage running at half way between the N and the H is not overheating and it is not blowing out any fluid. I cut and pasted text from Kirby's book and sent it to them and they said they have 20 years of experience and lots of shop manuals. This place specializes in British cars. I am beginning to think the only way I am going to be able to care for this car is to work on it completely myself.

This is what Kirby wrote:


There are basically four situations that thevertical gauge will indicate:

1) If your car has a properly-operating coolingsystem fitted with 190°F (88°C) thermostats,

the needle will always be sitting on the N whenthe car is warmed up. Perhaps just a hair to

the high side of the centerline of the scale,but always within the width of the letter itself,

never above it.

2) If your car has a properly-operating coolingsystem fitted with 180°F (82°C) thermostats,

the needle will always be sitting about 1/4”below the N when warmed up.

3) If your needle seems to wander around a lot,you have air in your cooling system. See the

section on filling and bleeding on page 179.

4) If your needle is above the N, your car isoverheating. If yourneedle is halfway between the

N and theH, your car is severely overheating. And don’t worry about the needle being on

the H; itwill never get that far.


Does anyone here know someone who does works on these cars and knows the XJS in the Maryland area?

 

Your last sentence about "working on the car yourself"says it best. We just completed a large thread about this subject, read it. You will find out auto repair shops don't want to work on or can't work on v12's about sums it up in most cases.
Lawrence

 

That sentence right there is a problem.

How are they up to $900 when they haven't done anything?

I know it's a bummer, and not to second guess you, but you would have been ahead of the game if you had just told them upfront, "pull the radiator and have it recored, and while you have it out replace the fan clutch, belts and hoses (and the fan itself if it's the yellow type plastic)."

Since you are new to the car, and unless if you have service records knowing that the radiator and been recored or replaced recently, it's something you should do regardless. I feel for you, and good luck.

 

It just occurred to me that you said you purchased the car from this shop, and you might want to push them that is a warranty issue (even if it was sold on a AS IS basis).

Just an idea, but you could suggest that there two Yelp! reviews you can write:

"Outstanding business, I purchased a car from them and discovered a problem, but they were stand up and took care of the problem without any hassle or excuses"

or

"Stay away. I purchased a car from them, and discovered it was overheating, not only did they try to convince this was normal, but they charged me x dollars to do nothing to fix the problem."

Gently remind them that you have confirmed with numerous XJS and V12 experts that the car is overheating, and the attempt to convince you otherwise is putting your engine at risk for a dropped valve seat or worse.

 

I apparently miss understood them. The 900 includes:

Inspecting the system for leaks.
Inspecting the fans that they are working
replacing 2 thermostats and "flushing" the system.

They don't know if the flush and thermostats will change anything. I told them not to do anything beyong that I was going to get the car. They still insist that temperature is not overheating. They told me not to believe what I read on forums or in online books.

Honestly, I do believe everyone on the forum as there is a great deal of direct experience here specific to this car and I think Kirby Palm's book is pretty good and complete. Last night I ordered replacement banjo bolts, 2 tefba filters. Once I get the car back, assuming the temperature runs where it was before, I plan to pull the radiator like Kirby and everyone recommends.

This shop was selling the car for one of their customers. So, it doesn't look like they are going to do anything. The shop insisting the car is not overheating transforms the problem from an undisclosed issue when selling the car, to my problem.

But the reality is the car is overheating and unless I solve it, I purchased a very pretty paper weight. I am adding this to my list of things I learned the hard way and will move on from there. Since I am not a mechanic it is likely I will be back here as I get stuck for guidance and I want to thank everyone for the time you spent in your replies as well as the future help I will surely seek.