Hi guys,

I've always enjoyed babying my cars and even more so with my 2012 XF.

I've always stayed on top of washing and waxing my cars, along with clay bar treatments.

However, I'm planning on taking my very first plunge into swirl/paint correction using a DA polisher this fall, and was wondering if you could help.

The XF is black and I bought it with 7k miles on it. Looks like it suffered from incorrect washing methods before I got it, possibly even *gasp* the dreaded automatic car wash, leaving it with swirls.

Questions I have are:

- For a DA polisher, any recommendations other than just price-point? I've looked at Flex, Porter Cable, and Meguiar's. Curious what everyone's experience and recommendations are.

- For the polishing compound, I watched a video on Chemical Guys V36 and was looking for feedback on this compound, or even recommendations to a better performing polish.

- Pad color, wondering which pad color I would need for a project like this.

Side note, I do plan on taping off any chrome or plastic trim with blue painter's tape before beginning the polishing.

Thanks guys. I figured I'd come to the experts in this forum, since the XF isn't exactly a trial-and-error type of car.

J

Which Jaguar is?

Totally agree. Sorry, should've mentioned this is my first Jaguar, so I've just gotten into the habit of calling it the XF since she's my first one!

Have you seen this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/d...ection-100495/

Allan has included a very thorough Work Plan in his posts there.

As for a random orbital, I've used a Porter Cable 7424 for several years. It's a nicely balanced machine which I wouldn't hesitate to but again if necessary but I think pad and compound choice is the more critical issue.

Graham

Thanks Graham. Yep, I've looked that thread over in amazement many times. Was looking to gain as much input from everyone as possible so I had some good recommendations before I pull the trigger on anything.

Thanks guys!

I can understand your caution. I've only had one black Jaguar - an X308.

Love all the four models in black but it takes twice the effort to keep the paint scratch and swirl free as it does with lighter colours.

Post some pics when you get started.

Graham

Can't help you on DA or polishing compounds -- only recently have I learned how to properly wash my XKR. The guy who detailed my XKR regularly posts on the detailingbliss forums:
Show and Shine
There are tons of discussions there on detailing products. Hope this helps.

Mike

Thanks Mike!

Hi J,

I had the same concerns as you before I started my project. I had never done any detailing to my car in the 19 years I've owned it or to any other car for that matter. My version of 'detailing' was a regular wash and vacuum and possibly a wax application by hand once or twice a year. I am very happy with the results I showed in my post but there is a learning curve. Here is what I learned.

1) Have a realistic goal based on the current condition of your car. In my case it was to improve my score in a Jaguar Concours. (It worked )

2) Learn. I had never operated any kind of powered polisher/buffer or sander, in fact the only power tool I owned prior to buying a D/A was a cordless drill. So complete newbie here!!

I read a lot of posts on various forums, in particular, autogeek. It's a fantastic learning source with a wide variety of expert detailers posting as well excellent instructional videos that helped me visualize the project and develop a plan.

The learning and planning phase took a little over 3 weeks but I spent a MANY hours learning during that timeframe.

3) Decide and Act!! As I was starting from scratch (pun intended ) I had to buy everything in one go. In deciding on which polisher to buy, I looked for ease of use, performance and price/warranty.

Being a newbie I decided on a D/A as they are the most forgiving for a rookie. The 3 main candidates were the Porter Cable, Meguiars and Griots machines, all of which had good reviews. Harbor Freight also has a very inexpensive machine but I wasn't convinced of the quality.

I ended up deciding on the Griots for three main reasons. It was priced well, it had the most powerful motor (important when using 6.5" pads) and also had a lifetime warranty. In the end all three work exactly the same way so go with whatever you feel comfortable with.

In terms of pads and products, it largely depends on point #1 (condition of paint and goals). The forums are littered with product x or product y is the best but in reality there are many, many great products available, no need to get hung up on finding 'the best'. Decide on a process and a manufacturer and go with it.

For pads I will say have plenty of them on hand!! 5 or 6 of each of the types you need to use (for compounding or polishing) as they will clog up.

4) Take your time. For paint correction slower is definitely faster!! Depending on your goals, it is easy to spend 40-80 hours on a full detail. For me, having a plan helped tremendously in keeping me on course.

I think very good results are well within range for anyone, after all it worked for a complete newbie like me

Enjoy it, have fun and post some pics when you're done!!

Cheers,

Allan

Thanks so much Allan! Really appreciate the great input and direction before I begin acquiring all of the tools and supplies needed for my swirl removal project!

I'm continuing to read (and re-read) as much info as I can before I jump into the project, which I plan on doing some time next month, realistically.

I'll definitely post pics of the finished product!

One of the most often asked questions; “What polish / pad combination should I use to remove scratches?”

There are far too many variables to state this accurately.
Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; before deciding on what products to use ascertain the paint surface conditions and your goals for the paint finish. And then proceed with the least abrasive product / pad combination

The factors that affect the outcome -speed, friction (kinetic energy) applied pressure, foam pad actual surface contact area, pad grit number (abrasive ability) amount of surface lubrication available, the surface area and heat conductivity of material

Select a ‘typical’ panel; one that represents the type of defects that you want to remove and the finish level required. Select an area of 18 x 18-inches and tape it off with painter’s tape, as this is an optimal working section to perform a product test spot; this will help establish a polish – pad combination that will produce the best possible finish that corresponds to your detailing goals for the vehicle.

Pay attention to how the paint is responding to your inputs. Stop and evaluate your progress, once this is established; repeat the process over the entire paint surface, adjusting abrasiveness for any low paint thickness. If your choice of abrasive polish pad combination, speed and technique works to restore the finish to your expectations, then theoretically you should be able to duplicate the process on the rest of the vehicle.

There may be some areas that have deeper scratches, which will necessitate a more abrasive polish. This is known a ‘spot-correction’. Once this area(s) are completed revert to the original polish / pad combination, there is no need to remove any more clear coat than is necessary

Normal Polishing area - 18 x 18- inches is optimal although a slightly larger area could be used



TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki Articles, these informational resources contain everything you’ll ever want to know about automotive detailing and are an invaluable addition to your detailing knowledge base -. http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html

GREAT insight, thanks TOGWT!