The rear caliper on the passenger side of my '67 e-type froze up so I ordered 2 new calipers for the back end. I used my manual to nearly drop the rear end, but I have come to a dead end with all but the arms detached. Can anyone direct me to a more clearly stated directive to complete this job? Many thanks, wayahbald

 

I will be doing the same when I completely rebuild the rear of my 67. I know there is a couple "tricks" to the proper disassembly. I have relied on XK's Unlimited in the past for parts and I bet if you get in touch with them, they will be able to help. xks.com should get you there. Steve is a great resource.

 

i think that most e's have a plate over the rear end you can take off to get to the brakes. under the frt of back seat. not sure but heard it.will have to look for myself

 

You must have completed the job by now. However, I just dropped my rear axle yesterday Sunday May 26 2013. I had the benefit of two e type award winning owners to guide me. I will be glad to send you pictures and an explanation on precisely how to do it.
I will also tell you of and improvement they devised to bleed the rear brakes. Send me you e mail and I'll write to you. Mine is rafael282_@hotmail.com

 

No access from the trunk area. I'll look when I pull the rear seat out. I don't see anything showing a plate for access in my manuals. Would be nice, but then it wouldn't be a Jag.

 

Haven't got there yet and your offer is greatly appreciated. I'm sending you an email. Many thanks, Craig

 

Been there, done that, worn that T shirt out !!!

Assuming Exhaust is already removed to forward of the cage.

THE HEIGHT OF THER CAR IN THE AIR IS VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!!!!!!

Warning......................... Warning..............................Warning

Measure the clearance needed to withdraw the cage after you have dropped it and consider the Height of your jack plus cage.

Here it is, U shaped wooden block or more properly piece ply with 2 at least quarter inch add ons on the top side to go between the opening directly under the Salsbury rear case. That allows you to support the cage from below and not damage the cage. On the jack to hold unit.

Now I start with the trailing links from the body to the cage as they are usually the worst to remove. There is a cover plate that needs undoing to access the center bolt into the chassis. Rubber floating mount that is press onto the body that will need to be freed up. If not remove the rear attachment points and they will swing out of the way. Take loose the upper sway bar mounts above the driveshaft. Remove and cap the brake union on the chassis or cage you choice. Disconnect the park brake cable, swing out of the way.Disco the prop shaft and you're getting close.

Carefully note the placement and number of the body shims between the v blocks and chassis that align the rear suspension in the chassis.


Center your jack and support the cage, now loosen and remove the rear V block upper mounting nuts, not the thru bolts. It will become apparent shortly. On the front V block loosen and remove the rear thru bolt and remove the front bolt's nut. Now you should be able to lower ever so carefully and slow the cage and you'll notice it is pivoting on the front bolt. Now with it pivoting down toward the front you can carefully remove those last 2 bolts and you should be able to roll it from under the car.


If you read the warning above.

While it's out, do the stuff that needs doing!!!! Don't cut corners....

Install in reverse plus bleed brakes.

Job Done Lads.. Now have the beer not before...

Robert

 

I had an MOT today which passed and on the advisory note it said both my rear brakes are grabbing. Do I need to get it fixed? What would cause this and what does it mean.

 

I presume it means the brake pads are not withdrawing properly when the brake is off. This indicates a stuck piston(s), and needs the calipers off to check out and repair/replace.

In my opinion, it is better to swap out with exchange calipers if you can, and then also fix the handbrake mechanism which will need overhauling in all probability.

I would suggest you get the car up on a ramp for an inspection. Depending on what you find, you might be better off dropping the cage and rebuilding it.

 

The only thought I can add to JagJet's description, is to add remote bleeders during the repair. They were only a dream when I pulled mine years ago.
Good Luck with your project..