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I'm curious if the bonnets are interchangeable between the years? I'm considering changing my 1970 to an earlier look. The headlight buckets could be reworked but switching bonnets may be easier.
If you are looking to have covered headlights, there are kits available to achieve that look. No need to change the bonnet. But if you are looking for the complete look with the blinkers below the bumper, then you do need to change the bonnet. I believe there is someone here with a dark red series 2 FHC that did just that. I don't know if it was a simple bolt on change, or if there were any modifications required.
I have a 1969 Series 2 FHC with a Series One bonnet with covered headlights and smaller intake. I also have Series One tail lights tucked under the rear bumpers. I have burl walnut & alligator accents to the interior. Obviously, I am not a purist. The bonnet alone will deduct 20 points in Champion Class Concours judging. I show the car in Display Only, where it did win a first place Concours trophy. This front end bonnet conversion was already done when I purchased the vehicle, even though, it appears that a swap is not an issue. The issue will be hand fitting and adjusting the bonnet at all attachment points, as you would have to do as in the case of a new bonnet due to a frontal collision repair.
I have done a number of modifications to my car's motor, interior, and exterior. The thinner Series One tail lights restores the pointed rear look similar to the Series One. The larger Series Two tail lights truncated the tapered look. I could never afford a Series One FHC; this hybrid is my best solution to "cleaning up" the Series Two stock appearance. If you look closely, I even replaced the interior rear view mirror with a Series One mirror. Reflections on a Series 1 bonnet. It uses one strut to open the bonnet. Smaller opening does not seem to cause overheating issues. Another view of the rear. I might end up painting the stainless panels; haven't made up my mind. No welding, only rivets. Ansa style rear exhaust tips. I deleted the hanging back up lights; I now have an led strip between the bumper and plate instead. The plate was raised one inch. I jokingly say I have a Series 1 3/4! This is the profile that I desired for my Series 2. Tinted glass. Rear side lights are now functioning using simple led light strips. The black crinkle paint on the covers have been polished. Chromed high output alternator, triple SUs, cam valley painted Jag gold, electronic distributor, NGKs, battery cutoff, Koni shocks all around. 205 Michelin Defenders. I also used the dummy (rear defroster) rocker switch as a "Kill" switch.
Last edited by XLRateMe; Jun 24, 2022 at 04:35 PM.
I have a 1969 Series 2 FHC with a Series One bonnet with covered headlights and smaller intake. I also have Series One tail lights tucked under the rear bumpers. I have burl walnut & alligator accents to the interior. Obviously, I am not a purist. The bonnet alone will deduct 20 points in Champion Class Concours judging. I show the car in Display Only, where it did win a first place Concours trophy. This front end bonnet conversion was already done when I purchased the vehicle, even though, it appears that a swap is not an issue. The issue will be hand fitting and adjusting the bonnet at all attachment points, as you would have to do as in the case of a new bonnet due to a frontal collision repair.
I have done a number of modifications to my car's motor, interior, and exterior. The thinner Series One tail lights restores the pointed rear look similar to the Series One. The larger Series Two tail lights truncated the tapered look. I could never afford a Series One FHC; this hybrid is my best solution to "cleaning up" the Series Two stock appearance. If you look closely, I even replaced the interior rear view mirror with a Series One mirror. Reflections on a Series 1 bonnet. It uses one strut to open the bonnet. Smaller opening does not seem to cause overheating issues. Another view of the rear. I might end up painting the stainless panels; haven't made up my mind. No welding, only rivets. Ansa style rear exhaust tips. I deleted the hanging back up lights; I now have an led strip between the bumper and plate instead. The plate was raised one inch. I jokingly say I have a Series 1 3/4! This is the profile that I desired for my Series 2. Tinted glass. Rear side lights are now functioning using simple led light strips. The black crinkle paint on the covers have been polished. Chromed high output alternator, triple SUs, cam valley painted Jag gold, electronic distributor, NGKs, battery cutoff, Koni shocks all around. 205 Michelin Defenders. I also used the dummy (rear defroster) rocker switch as a "Kill" switch.
Love the car! it look beautiful. In addition to the changes you've made I would like to lose the side marker lights. I am interested in the headlight conversion kit mentioned in the previous post. Where can one acquire that?
I have the tires on the ground on wider wire wheels than the originals. My spare is an original 185. The 205 tires & wheels will not fit into the spare tire well. I'm with you on deletion of the rear side markers; the cleaner the better. But, I did not want to have to do bodywork and paint matching so I left them alone. Also, I do drive it at night, so the side markers help. As a matter of fact, for Daytime Running Lights, my headlight rocker switches are wired so that when the car is running, the front & rear parking lights are on and so are the rear side markers. I used to get nervous that other drivers might not see me, so I even installed a third brake light on the interior of the back window. I'm glad you like the look of my car.
I also use tubes in my wire wheels. Some older wheels (mine are at least 25 yrs old) tend to leak at the spokes.
Here is a link to a company that sells the covered headlight kits; doesn't look cheap.
Thank you for the information. I'm amazed the headlight conversion can be done with no welding.
I definitely want to convert the headlights and remove the side markers but am uncertain about the front and rear auxiliary lights.
I do think there may be an advantage to keeping the wider opening in the bonnet for cooling purposes since I live in the desert. Cooling issues are historic, but I have to say I never had any such issue with my brand new 1970 back in the day.
I gather you have 6" wheels since you mentioned wider. I am uncertain if I want to go that wide or stick with 5". I have not seen 15 1/2" available as a compromise. I will replace the wheels though so this is something I need to settle on soon. I have read on this forum of difficulty changing the rears with wider wheels and tires. Have you found that to be an issue?
Do you know if a 195 tire with 5" or 6" wheels will fit as a spare? Clearly 205's won't.
No, I don't know if the 195's on the 5" wheels will fit in the spare well. I believe the original stock tire was the 185's. Since it is my spare, I am not at all interested in putting a larger tire on that wheel. Probably, the spare will never hit the pavement. Someone who knows a lot about the E-Type told me that a 205 could be mounted on the original width 5" wheel. But, I'm no expert. My 205's have absolutely no issues like rubbing or rubbing while in a braking turn. My car still has its bump stops. There's a couple of guys in the Dallas club that have very wide tires, 225's, but they had to delete the bump stops. Their tires are mounted on wheels with an offset.
I have 205's on 5" wheels in the rear and 185's in the front of my 1966 E type and didn't have to remove the bump stops. Spare is a 185. It handles great and looks like it is leaping forward even when standing still and the 185's on the front steer easier at slow speeds in parking situations. My car is a Sunday driver not a show car.
XLRateMe,
Some people complain about the handling, and heavy steering at slow speeds like while parking when using the wider tires. Have you experienced any of this?
Thanks,
Bill.
All I've ever known, I've owned my E for over 20 years now, are the 205s. The only time I feel the steering is excessively heavy, is when the car is at a standstill and I am changing directions. Once it is rolling, even the slightest, in my opinion, the steering is not a factor. As for handling, the car is quite nimble and comfortable. I am happy the profile of the tires are not like as low as modern tires; pot holes don't phase these wheels whatsoever.
I've only ever driven two E-Types. Mine & a buddy's Series One, which also runs on 205s. I drove it in both a rally & a slalom while at the last IJF in Ft. Myers, Florida, October '21. I like the look of the 205s; not to skinny and not too fat!
I have another friend who has 205s on his 1969 Series Two. He recently added the electric power steering kit and loves it. Sorry to confuse the issue.
Last edited by XLRateMe; Jun 29, 2022 at 04:36 PM.
Hello Daytona, please excuse the delay had rinse her off before I took a picture for you. My garage apron is at an incline so she looks sort of level in the picture but the front tires are quite smaller. The rear exhaust has more clearance with the 205 tires on back and it has never bottomed out on me. I've had the car since 1984 and have had 185"s and then 205 tires all the way around on the 5" wire wheels but she now seems to corner better with the 185 tires on the front. Who would have figured?