I have a 1969 E Type that has been fitted with Triple SU carbs. The choke cable used on the installation is the original Dual choke cable. It has always been less than perfect and more so now. I put up with it for a long time simply because of the seemingly almost impossible task of changing it at the choke pull end.
does anybody know if there is a specific cable for the SU conversion. My mechanic thinks there is but I have been unable to find it.
any advice on changing it at the choke pull end would be appreciated.

 

Perhaps an Administrator can move your post to the E-Type forum as this is for the XJ6/XJ12 Series 1 through 3.

 

Hi Terry,
You might be able to access the choke pull lever from below to loosen and remove the cables from the choke pull lever. But I can't see anyone being able to re attach the cables from that position. The way I see it, the best way to access the choke pull and the able ends, is to remove the top of the dash, which in it self is an annoying job. And even with the dash top off, the choke pull is in a tight spot. It is located between the glove box, and the intermediate panel that makes one of the sides of the fuse area behind the center instrument cluster.
Anyway, What is wrong with the choke cables?
Good luck with your project.
Bill.

 

The choke cable is beaten up and will not allow the choke to release consistently.
it cause the car to be tuned with the choke open slightly. Just a pain it is difficult to disconnect at the carb due to the air filter. Plus the strands have all separated

 

Terry,
It is a lot easier to remove the air filter than to remove the dash top to access the choke lever.
As I recall, the outer sleeve of the choke cable is not secured at the choke lever (I'll have to check tomorrow to make sure). It slides freely over the cable. You might be able to pull the outer sleeve off and lubricate it. That might help the operation of the choke.
Bill.

 

Agree - removing the air filter plenum is a breeze. 5 minute job. Still a bit of a fiddle getting your hands under the carbs to the choke cable connector, but not too bad.

 

Terry
I have a 69 converted to triple SU and the choke hookup was very straightforward.
I am going by memory here. The Strombergs used two choke cables, I used one and let the other dangle. The SUs had linkage for cable connection. That is the critical part you might be missing.
I will try to get some pictures
Pete

 

 

Hi Terry,
Below are two photos of what the choke cable connection looks like at the choke lever. This is a view from the top as my dashboard top is removed. As you can see, even with the dash top off, it is a tight space and not easily accessible. The choke cable liner does not slip off of the silver basket easily. Unless you decide to remove the dash top, I think your best bet for now is to try spraying some type of lubricant inside the cable liner. Disconnect from the carb lineage, find a way to hold the cable in a vertical position and spray some lubricant inside of it. Good luck and let us know if that works.
Bill.

 

I was very frustrated with the condition of the choke cable at the Carb end, it was severely distorted and the strands had separated. This caused the choke to be unreliable in release..
The solution was simple. I sliced the glove compartment at the top and sides. This gave me access to the lever.
I removed the inner cable and replaced it with a new cable. Repairing the glove compartment was relatively easy, it is cheap and nasty piece of equipment, not worthy of Jaguar.
The addition of a spring to the forward choke lever solved the minor problem of the outer casing distortion.
I could not understand why I could not remove the outer casing, it was seized solid in the lever. The mechanism is not robust and I did not want to damage it by heaving on the end from a very awkward angle.
It all works fine now the tuning is back to good, but will have to wait until Spring for a more detailed adjustment

Bill,
Thank you for the photos, they helped immensely. Maybe you could let me know how the top of the dash comes off. I just replaced a broken windshield washer spray nozzle, my arms are scraped to pieces. Doing it from the access hole under the dash was challenging.

 

Terry,
I am glad you were able to do the project and that my photos helped.
In order to remove the dash top, you need to get on your back in the footwell and with a flashlight you will see the retaining nuts. If I remember correctly, there are two retaining nuts accessible once you open the center instrument panel. Undo the retaining nuts and the dash top will come off. However, when the dash top is off, it does not give you an easier access to the spray nozzles. You still have to reach the nozzles through the small access hole.
Bill.