XKE rear Brakes series 2 removal?
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From: niagara falls ont
XKE rear Brakes series 2 removal?
I keep reading in all the normal sources Haynes and Bentlys jag workshop manual that the rear callipers on an E can't be removed without dropping the complete rearend cage! But after studying mine for a while I thought I'd give it a try with the rearend cage in-place......... Using a 3/8 7/16" 6 point brake wrench I removed the brake lines first. (left the bridge pipes in place) Next up
I used a 7/16 socket to remove the two bolts that hold the hand brake calliper to the main brake calliper then undid the hand brake cable and took off the
mechanism. Now using a 5/8" gear wrench I undid the two bolts that hold the main callipers to the differential housing, be careful not to get the gear wrench stuck between the bolt head and the diff case as you undo it, use an open end wrench to get these bolts all the way out. Then rock the hand break calliper to the rear and wiggle out the Main Brake Calliper through the front cage opening!
After rebuilding the callipers with new stainless pistons and seals I reinstalled them in reverse order. The books say this job requires the removal of the rear cage and the front shock/spring but it wasn't that difficult to do with eveyrthing in place ? Maybe a series two has bigger apertures in the front of the cage.??
I used a 7/16 socket to remove the two bolts that hold the hand brake calliper to the main brake calliper then undid the hand brake cable and took off the
mechanism. Now using a 5/8" gear wrench I undid the two bolts that hold the main callipers to the differential housing, be careful not to get the gear wrench stuck between the bolt head and the diff case as you undo it, use an open end wrench to get these bolts all the way out. Then rock the hand break calliper to the rear and wiggle out the Main Brake Calliper through the front cage opening!
After rebuilding the callipers with new stainless pistons and seals I reinstalled them in reverse order. The books say this job requires the removal of the rear cage and the front shock/spring but it wasn't that difficult to do with eveyrthing in place ? Maybe a series two has bigger apertures in the front of the cage.??
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 127
Likes: 33
From: Sydney
I keep reading in all the normal sources Haynes and Bentlys jag workshop manual that the rear callipers on an E can't be removed without dropping the complete rearend cage! But after studying mine for a while I thought I'd give it a try with the rearend cage in-place......... Using a 3/8 7/16" 6 point brake wrench I removed the brake lines first. (left the bridge pipes in place) Next up
I used a 7/16 socket to remove the two bolts that hold the hand brake calliper to the main brake calliper then undid the hand brake cable and took off the
mechanism. Now using a 5/8" gear wrench I undid the two bolts that hold the main callipers to the differential housing, be careful not to get the gear wrench stuck between the bolt head and the diff case as you undo it, use an open end wrench to get these bolts all the way out. Then rock the hand break calliper to the rear and wiggle out the Main Brake Calliper through the front cage opening!
After rebuilding the callipers with new stainless pistons and seals I reinstalled them in reverse order. The books say this job requires the removal of the rear cage and the front shock/spring but it wasn't that difficult to do with eveyrthing in place ? Maybe a series two has bigger apertures in the front of the cage.??
I used a 7/16 socket to remove the two bolts that hold the hand brake calliper to the main brake calliper then undid the hand brake cable and took off the
mechanism. Now using a 5/8" gear wrench I undid the two bolts that hold the main callipers to the differential housing, be careful not to get the gear wrench stuck between the bolt head and the diff case as you undo it, use an open end wrench to get these bolts all the way out. Then rock the hand break calliper to the rear and wiggle out the Main Brake Calliper through the front cage opening!
After rebuilding the callipers with new stainless pistons and seals I reinstalled them in reverse order. The books say this job requires the removal of the rear cage and the front shock/spring but it wasn't that difficult to do with eveyrthing in place ? Maybe a series two has bigger apertures in the front of the cage.??
Yes, its possible and I've done it before when the car presented to me had a new stainless steel exhaust system welded at all junctions, right to the front. Is it practical to not remove the rear end? Not in my opinion, given the relative ease of removing same.
You make no mention of removing and replacing the Lock Wires. I've worked on many cars where the Lock Wires have been missing, and I suspect that this may be due to someone previously carrying out brake caliper work without removing the rear suspension. Replacing the Lock Wires with the Rear Suspension in place, and doing it well, is not a job to look forward to.
Regards,
Brent
Last edited by bkeats; Jul 17, 2015 at 05:41 AM.
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