I'm going to be replacing the coolant pipes in my 2016 F-Type R. I have about 44k miles and I don't see any indication of a problem yet, however I want to avert disaster so I'm replacing them now. I bought metal pipes to replace the plastic ones. I'm looking to tackle it this weekend. I've seen some really great info and videos on this so I'm good there but here's my question. Is it a good idea to disconnect the battery for this job. I know a lot of these cars continue to communicate with modules even if the car just sits and with some cars if you don't disconnect the battery as you start disconnecting sensors you will throw a code as the computer doesn't understand why things are disconnected.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

 

Yes, I think you should disconnect it. You’ll have unconnected harnesses all over the place, and while most should be unpowered, it’s possible something would still have power on it which could get shorted. And it’s easy enough to do.

 

Thanks DJS. Hey a follow up question. Seems like some folks are draining the coolant for the job and some are just siphoning some out of the reservoir to lower the level a bit. Do you think the coolant should be drained completely for the job? I was hoping not to do that if I can avoid it.

 

Engine coolant should be replaced every 10 years, according to the maintenance schedule. Might as well change it now?

 

Makes sense just a bit more work to do so. Any suggestions on coolant? Guy in a video I just watched used Dexcool. Curious if it should be Jaguar specific?

 

Dexcool Orange should be what’s in there now.

I’m getting ready to do the same thing. My ‘16 has 92,000 miles. New WP, new pipes including the new JLR metal ones. New metal WP to oil cooler pipe and brass elbow into WP from RKX. Changing the gasket under the oil cooler. Changing the oil in the supercharger.

 

Thanks. Wow it sounds like we are doing the same job. I'm doing the supercharger oil as well and I'm going to inspect the supercharger coupler and possibly replace it as well with a solid one. I'm not doing the water pump since it's rather low in mileage and that doesn't seem too difficult to get to. What I see in videos that's the tough part is getting the Supercharger loose and then muscling it off the car since I hear it's pretty heavy. I'm doing this on my own so might not be a fun time with that part.

 

I have seen my young tech buddy wrestle one off an F Pace S. Put something down next to the motor to have a landing zone. It is very heavy when you’re stretched out over a fender.

 

So follow up question. I've seen different takes on how to fill an empty coolant system. I have a the fancy bucket/funnel type kit that allows you to fill the bucket and it drains into the system. Others have talked about a pressure fill system. I was curious if anyone has used this bucket/funnel set up on their F-Type to fill the coolant and burp/bleed the system or if there's a VERY specific way it needs to be done on these?

 

i'm interested in this, too. Gravity fill doesn't look like it will happen.

 

So a little update. I got started and made a big old mess draining the coolant out which is generally to be expected. I even had a giant drain pan but oh well. So I took out the drain plug on the block and I'd like to replace the crush washer and rubber seal. It's not a typical part from a part store. Might have to go to Jag for it. Any suggestions? Also, I tried just threading the plug back in which is very tight access and no joy. My guess is that I'm not getting the plug dead straight to get it started. I was very cautious and careful since I don't want to strip the threads in the block. Access is pretty bad, can't get my hand up there. Any suggestions?

Thanks folks

 

NEVER EVER DISSCONNECT YOUR BATTERY .....PLEASE! Just a heads up ,I've done many many cooling pipes installs

 

Hey Dennis. Any reason why you I should not disconnect the battery? I got a fair amount of feedback suggesting to disconnect. Are there any issues with disconnecting the battery? I've already done it and I'm part way into the job.

 

I'm curious, too, why the battery disconnect might be an issue. I've done a bit of work on my 17 R, and I always disconnect the battery, sometimes for a day or two. Never had any issues, works great. Just have to recalibrate the windows, takes 10 seconds.

 

I'll probably have my battery disconnected for a couple of weeks since I only have a little time to spend working on it this project and I can tell it's quite tedious and will take some time. Getting the Supercharger off doesn't look like fun working on my own.

 

Only reason is if it did not shutdown fully ,alot of modules may fry ,(Kwm,rf Bcm modules) a common problem with newer cars ,you may get lucky just a heads up,I've had to replace a few modules on some members cas here on the Forum and program them with SDD, if you have any issues I'm here to help

 

Thanks Dennis. Interesting. Well I certainly hope that doesn't happen. The car sat for about a good day before I started the job so hopefully everything shut down by then.

You mentioned you've done this job before. I posted on another thread but I thought I would post here as well. I'm having trouble getting the coolant drain plug on the block started to put it back. Terrible access so I've tried with an extension and the 17mm hex socket but it seems It just doesn't want to line up. I can't get my hand between the steering shaft and the exhaust manifold to get my hand in there. Any suggestions to get the plug back in?

Thanks

 

I can only contribute empathy with the difficulty of threading the coolant drain.

Someday you will replace your transmission fluid...THEN you will need to start the trans FILL screw, next to the hot exhaust!

 

carbuff2 thanks for your sympathy lol. So it sounds like you've been through it. Any advice? Also, did you replace the crush washer and rubber portion? I can't seem to find it anywhere on a search. I haven't been to the dealer yet but I was hoping to replace the plug and washer/gasket.

 

If you ask about the #*&%$@%(&% transmission fill plug, that has no washers nor rubber. Just a LARGE number of threads. And a burn-inducing exhaust next to it.

There was no leakage out of the filler, between the initial trans fluid replacement and when I did our next service/inspection, a year later.


The trans pan drain might have a gasket, but I didn't care. The OEM transmission pan has a non-replaceable filter, so the entire pan needs to be replaced at the first transmission service, if you want to renew the filter.