F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

2016 F-Type R Coolant Pipe replacement

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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 10:56 AM
  #201  
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I absolutely wish mine was a manual. Love the Type R, ridiculous acceleration and grip. Almost impossible to spin the wheels with the AWD. But I hear that V6 is quite similar even in sound and with the manual a great way to go.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 02:58 PM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by Trainingdragon
I absolutely wish mine was a manual. Love the Type R, ridiculous acceleration and grip. Almost impossible to spin the wheels with the AWD. But I hear that V6 is quite similar even in sound and with the manual a great way to go.
Hopefully with the vap tune and pulley it should be plenty adequate IF it runs again. First injector out, not too bad #6 closest to driver. #4 and 5 aren't coming out near as easy. There's pb blaster Hopefully working some sort of magic and I'll give it another 50-100 slides later. I've been going at it for a good 20 min constantly sliding. Here's a pic of the first injector out

 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 04:54 PM
  #203  
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So doesn't look too bad. I don't suppose you have one of those super fancy injector testers? BTW, is your supercharger lid polished? It looks really nice. Also when you say PB are you just referring to PB blaster spray to free up rusty bolts/parts? And if so, where did you spray it? Down where the injector slides in it's port?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 05:50 PM
  #204  
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Oh and I thought of one new thing, for me at least. I ended up draining the coolant from the block which I realize not everyone does. With that in mind coolant pouring out of that drain plug from the block makes a pretty good mess of things including running all over various components before hitting the drain pan or in my case all over the floor. I'm curious for those who have done the same or are familiar with that area, could I have soaked any electrical connectors around there that could have caused my issues?? I see one obvious connector but can't tell if there's any more. The one I see appears to connect to either front differential or front drive shaft housing maybe? I didn't get the best look. Just another thought.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 06:22 PM
  #205  
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Hi guys,

Thought I would weigh in here, maybe with some info, maybe not. I just happened upon this thread, of course couldn't read all 200 posts, so only skimmed a few. So many things/issues going on in this thread, some procedures I agree with some I do not, but the reason I decided to reply is regarding the misfire issues that appear to be arising and the coincidence for me is the battery disconnect. It brought me back to my Aston and time on an Aston forum. Although I believe my DB11 V12 is the newer EMS platform and hopefully past this.

In the "Ford" era, the EMS had some design peculiarities, one of which, when volatile memory was lost (fuel trims lost, trans learn lost), along with that the ECU had to relearn and restore in memory, where TDC on the #1 piston is so the Crank Position Sensor can begin to manage cylinder ignitions. When this memory was lost, and until it was restored, multiple misfires (and CELS) would stack up. The CPS apparently does not have a hard starting point which most other platforms do. Of course, there was a factory diagnostic procedure that could correct it, or a manual, drive cycle event that would restore it. Since JLR has Ford lineage, it is possible this quirky misfire learn process carried over to these circa Jaguars.

Here is a thread (from Aston) that will discuss it and the drive cycle process.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rrections.html

Regarding the coolant "issues" on the V6/V8s, my wife's 2018 F-Pace developed the valley leak at as close to 50,000 miles as you can get. I tackled this changeover to metal piping (as many have); wrote a little about here. post # 93

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...5/#post2836143

BTW, I look new to Jaguarforums, actually I go back almost to the start, but got away from it so long, my original handle account was lost. But I've owned and kept running:
Series III
X300
XK8
X-Type
XJR X350
XJ X305
F-Pace.

Don't know if this will add any light...maybe, maybe not...

Best with it!



 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 06:37 PM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by Trainingdragon
So doesn't look too bad. I don't suppose you have one of those super fancy injector testers? BTW, is your supercharger lid polished? It looks really nice. Also when you say PB are you just referring to PB blaster spray to free up rusty bolts/parts? And if so, where did you spray it? Down where the injector slides in it's port?
I had the sc lid, most visible screws and top coolant pipe polished while disassembling everything to replace lower coolant pipes thermostat and water pump. Well worth it I love the polished look on lid, bolts and upper coolant pipe-much cleaner when you pop the hood. Yep pb blaster inside the injector chambers..I'm letting it sit for a while then will use a bunch of q tips to soak up whatever sits inside so it doesnt go into the motor..Likely change the oil as soon as things are running as they should. I've seen several videos on people using brushes attached to drills to clean out chamber walls once injector is out but It seems like too much would get into the motor..I'll do more research on how to clean injector chamber. Really hope these other two come out.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 07:11 PM
  #207  
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Originally Posted by Trainingdragon
Wow thanks everyone. I don't feel quite so alone in this game. Hmmm not much of a game more like a mini nightmare. What should have been a fairly simple job has turned out to be so much more complicated and going way past my knowledge base. I've been tied up with work most of the week so no time on the car. I have parts arriving soon and i need to set up a good day/time for my buddy to come and help. I'm hoping with his vast overall car experience he will spot a very obvious blunder on my part after we pull it all apart again. And maybe if I'm lucky it's the intake gaskets that I used twice and maybe they aren't sealing well. I can't help but wonder if it has anything to do with the symposer nonsense since that's the only real change I've made other than aluminum coolant pipes and cleaning the valves. But it seems so many people have removed the sypmoser with no issues at all. I thought about putting it back to see if that makes any difference but it seems like maybe a dumb idea and it's not fun trying to fit that contraption back in.

So once again I sure appreciate the friendship on here and reading about other folks in a similar boat.

keep it coming and I'll share my updates as well.
Spoke to my tech today, he said it could be a plethora of reasons after doing that job. But he was clear that those gaskets should always be replaced when removing the SC.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 07:13 PM
  #208  
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ksducati good luck with your process on the injectors and yes your SC lid looks awesome. Keep us all posted on how things are going with the injectors.

Dionysus - I really appreciate you chiming in. And yes this thread has almost gone out of control but for me this relatively simple job has turned into a bit of a nightmare.. So you have brought a brand new subject to the table that actually makes some sense. So it's possible all of my mechanical work may be fine but it's more of a computer issue. Interesting and yet frustrating as well. I'm going to review what you sent over later on but I'm curious how other folks on here might react to this new information. Thanks so much for sharing it as it's a different spin. And yes my battery was disconnected for about 2 weeks while I did the job in my spare time which may be enough time to do what you brought up.

Curious what everyone else thinks about that subject.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 07:16 PM
  #209  
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Evoex, thanks for sharing. Yep after all the feedback I'm planning on changing those again and getting help so I can have some help setting the SC in place and have another set of experienced car guy eyes on this whole thing.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2025 | 09:20 PM
  #210  
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Evoex, if you still have access to your tech guy would you be willing to run this new information by him. A battery disconnected for some time, let's say a few weeks. Now misfire codes and running rough. Could these be related and if so, can he share how to address. If it's a relearn procedure, what that would be.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 08:19 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Trainingdragon
Evoex, if you still have access to your tech guy would you be willing to run this new information by him. A battery disconnected for some time, let's say a few weeks. Now misfire codes and running rough. Could these be related and if so, can he share how to address. If it's a relearn procedure, what that would be.
+1 yes, I was very curious about this as well. Mine was disconnected for a longer period..and to top it off I tuned the car after it sat for a long period of time getting the preventative coolant parts upgraded then tune...then unplugged again for cold chicago winter while installing suspension and a short shifter..I asked velocity ap who said battery disconnected for that period of time shouldn't affect it. Mine was enough of a misfire that I don't think I want to attempt a relearn drive cycle. Fingers crossed we find something.

Be nice if we both just found some lose connector or vacuum line😎
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 08:53 AM
  #212  
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I think it’s highly unlikely the battery disconnect will be the culprit. Many of us have disconnected the battery for various reasons with no ill effect, albeit for a few minutes. But the manual says for extended storage, the battery should be removed, and doesn’t mention any consequences (other than the window auto up/down having to be relearned.)
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 09:12 AM
  #213  
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I’ve lost track if the high-pressure fuel rails were removed. I see this in the V8 training doc…

CAUTIONS:
• Direct fuel injection equipment is manufac-
tured to very precise tolerances and fine
clearances. It is therefore essential that
absolute cleanliness be observed when
working with these components.
• Always carry out the cleaning process
before carrying out any repairs to the fuel
injection system components. Failure to fol-
low this instruction may result in foreign
matter ingress to the fuel injection system.
• Do not re-use the high-pressure fuel pipes
under any circumstances if the fuel pumps
have been disturbed.
• This engine uses high-pressure injection
components. This will require care during
service work on the high and low-pressure
fuel circuits. Pay attention to cleanliness
and tightening torques.
Preparation Before Starting Work
The work area must be clean, including the floor, hand
tools and clothing. Ensure a dust-free environment. Bear
in mind that the whole engine is built in a clean environ-
ment and when carrying out any repair work, common
sense should be used as to the working conditions.
Any work on a dirty engine requires cleaning in the
event of:
• Opening of the high-pressure circuits
• Removal of the cylinder heads
The use of high-pressure cleaning is prohibited. Protect
the electrical components from any spillage. Clean each
union to be opened and the parts using a suitable brush
and approved degreasing agent. Use a vacuum machine
to collect residue.
NOTE: Always refer to current workshop literature.
Instruction for Cleanliness During Removal
As soon as the high-pressure and low-pressure circuits
are opened, plug the open pipes immediately using suit-
able plugs on the following parts:
• Pump supply pipe
• High-pressure pumps
• Fuel rails
Here’s the document…
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/y28ug...=sr3rhxcg&dl=0
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 10:31 AM
  #214  
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DJS thanks for all that info. Ksducati may benefit from that procedure more than me since he's pulling out the injectors. In my case I only disconnected the fuel line that crosses over the SC so that I could remove it to get to the coolant pipes. I covered the open steel fuel lines so nothing could drop into them. I was pretty careful. I didn't cap them I just covered them. In all the procedures I've seen I don't think anyone had any issues with that fuel line for this job.

With regard to the battery disconnect, it would seem very odd to have such a major issue when it's disconnected for an extended period of time. I can see a possible relearn process through normal driving but to have misfire codes just seems odd and a bad design, but then again, who knows. I'm hoping Evoex might be able to run it by his tech buddy.

Ksducati - I agree I'm hoping when I pull mine apart my friend who is much better than I am with this spots a blunder I made. We'll probably jump into it next Friday. But I'm hoping to hear more discussion about this battery and re-learn item that could be causing this issue if that's even a thing on this car?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 11:20 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by Trainingdragon
DJS thanks for all that info. Ksducati may benefit from that procedure more than me since he's pulling out the injectors. In my case I only disconnected the fuel line that crosses over the SC so that I could remove it to get to the coolant pipes. I covered the open steel fuel lines so nothing could drop into them. I was pretty careful. I didn't cap them I just covered them. In all the procedures I've seen I don't think anyone had any issues with that fuel line for this job.

With regard to the battery disconnect, it would seem very odd to have such a major issue when it's disconnected for an extended period of time. I can see a possible relearn process through normal driving but to have misfire codes just seems odd and a bad design, but then again, who knows. I'm hoping Evoex might be able to run it by his tech buddy.

Ksducati - I agree I'm hoping when I pull mine apart my friend who is much better than I am with this spots a blunder I made. We'll probably jump into it next Friday. But I'm hoping to hear more discussion about this battery and re-learn item that could be causing this issue if that's even a thing on this car?
sounds great man, wish ya luck on the second time around disassembling..luckily I do believe it would be far easier to do again hahaaa I really don't want to. Few more wacks at the slide hammer for inj 4 and 5 but no luck. I've read several folks using an extractor after breaking the injector..geeez this sounds scary. Wouldn't hesitate to do it if I knew it worked but if it doesn't you would be left with quite the mess.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2025 | 11:38 AM
  #216  
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Thanks. For me it's actually the 3rd time taking it apart as the first time I noticed coolant leaks forcing me to replace the oil cooler since I mangled the small pipe when I removed it.

Good luck with your injectors.

I like working on cars but this car has some quirks that are making it less fun
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 05:15 PM
  #217  
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So another question that I'm not sure was hit yet. Since I'm going with the possibility that the intake gaskets are going to be replaced again I want to make sure I get the supercharger bolted down to the intake just right. i have the torque spec of 25 NM but what I couldn't find is the torque sequence. I have that for the SC lid, but can't find it for the intake bolts. Wondering if anyone has a diagram for that? I want to make sure I do this 3rd install exactly the way it should be. I used starting from the middle and working my way out which is intuitive but since I have such issues I want to follow the exact procedure to minimize my errors.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 05:23 PM
  #218  
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Does your friend have an AllData subscription? It’s listed in there.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 05:26 PM
  #219  
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No he doesn't. He works on a lot of cars for fun but mainly uses his various handheld scan tools. I've heard of alldata but I'm not familiar with it.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2025 | 05:31 PM
  #220  
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Looks like there is a DIY version for $20 a month. Covers up to 2021 vehicles. Highly recommend.
 
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