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For the AJ133, unlike the head bolts to the block, there is no particular 'sequence' for tightening the inlet manifold to cylinder head bolts. A good practice is to hand tighten first, then torque to 1/2 the maximum torque value, then a third time to maximum torque value.
Thanks Robrt8 I did that and found it. I see it with a $20 one month subscription. I'll seriously consider it. My problem seems so oddly out of the ordinary but there has to be a solution to it.
NBCat. Thanks for sharing. So I was wondering if you happen to check out the thread and mainly the issue I'm having where I did the coolant pipes, removed the symposer with a blockoff kit, cleaned the valves, and put the car back together. When cleaning the valves I rotated the motor (clockwise facing the motor) to close additional valves to complete the job. After that I now have a check engine light, cars running very rough, and misfiring and the usual misfire codes. Also, the battery was disconnected for a few weeks while I was doing the job. Curious if you have any thoughts with your background on what could be causing this issue. Prior to taking this on the car ran perfect. One additional item, I installed new intake gaskets however I had to remove the supercharger a second time as one of my new pipes had a leak therefore the intake gaskets were installed twice. On the advice of many on here I was told those are one time use only so I now have new gaskets that I plan to replace. I'm struggling to believe that's the issue but just in case I plan to do that. That being said, any thoughts overall would be appreciated.
With all your troubles you really need to get the workshop manual. Randomly asking questions is fine but it's a HUGE waste of your time!
I use the workshop manual and the JEPC as they seem to be the most complete.
Do you have a manual? It's cheap or even free for just a little bit of work.
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Thanks guys. I downloaded the manual and much appreciated. As far as the random questions, my situation seems to be a little unusual and after perusing the manual it doesn't seem to address the issue I'm having ergo chatting the community here. While the manual is great and very detailed, my challenge seems to fall a little out of the box and may not be covered by the manual but I'll keep perusing.
Curious if Ksducati solved his issues by replacing the fuel injectors.
This course has additional details you may find helpful.
As for my opinion on the battery being an issue: I've found many odd or inexplicable issues with many modern vehicles are the result of less than optimal available voltage. It's my opinion that having the battery disconnected for an extended period should NOT make any difference if, when reconnected, the battery is fully charged with 12.6 volts showing on a voltmeter when read across the battery terminals. Many random DTCs and instrument cluster warnings are the result of inadequate available voltage.
NBCat thanks for the additional info and perspective. It's helpful. And yes I received a lot of feedback about having a fully charged battery especially when doing this type of work as new cars, especially these are very sensitive to non-optimal voltage. There may be enough voltage to start the car and even run it but if the battery is low apparently the system doesn't like it even if the alternator is doing its job. I'll check out the link as well and thanks.
NBCat, do you think turning the crank (in the clockwise direction - facing the engine from the front of the car) to close specific valves to clean them could have thrown anything off?
The AJ133 and AJ126 should only be rotated in a clock direction to avoid damage to the main and rod bearings. If you rotated the crankshaft in that direction whilst standing in front of the engine, then you were correct.
Was any work done to the timing chains or tensioners?
NBcat. No I didn't do any work to the timing chains or tensioners. I only rotated the motor so I could close the remaining valves to clean them and I was very careful when cleaning including using a shopvac with small diameter hose to suck out all brake fluid and debris. Then I carefully picked out any remaining debris/carbon to ensure hopefully nothing would get sucked in.
Since there have been no fuel faults or codes generated I think it is not a fuel pump or timing issue, right @scm?
I think you and @Ksducati have the same situation going on. I am a little worried we haven't heard from him after starting the fuel injector pull!
There is unmeasured air either getting in or escaping after the 2 MAF sensors up to the cylinder. Could be from the gasket.
Looking backward, @Trainingdragon this hose (allegedly from the transmission) appears to have been clamped before at the end and in the middle, and what is the black and yellow plug beneath it at 7 o'clock?
Thanks. For me it's actually the 3rd time taking it apart as the first time I noticed coolant leaks forcing me to replace the oil cooler since I mangled the small pipe when I removed it.
Good luck with your injectors.
I like working on cars but this car has some quirks that are making it less fun
Before getting on with the injectors I ended up checking the spark plugs (which were changed a few months back during the coolant pipe project and tune. Plugs 4 5 and 6 (mainly 6 then 5 were the worst) black sooted worn looking for only having approx 30 min worth of run time.
Brief history: After the coolant project and vap stage 2 tune installation starting the motor up the car had misfires on the drivers side bank and ran very rough..I did find a vacuum line behind the drivers side head wasn't fully seated. Thought for sure this was it! Plugged it in and checked the "new" plugs. This is where I found 4 5 and 6 cyl plugs not very new looking at all for its limited run time. Swapped the plugs and started it up again. Same issue. Checked the plugs again after only 10 min of motor running rough this time and same result..6 looks the worst then 4.. pics of the plugs below.
I removed the drivers side catalytic converter downpipe hoping I'd see some obvious blockage or rattling (I know not something you should hope for..I just want to find the solution and get this thing running) looks clear and no rattles inside cat.
Maybe back to the injector project of trying to change out drivers side bank..but maaan inj 4 and inj 5 are seized. Not sure if anyone has any good tricks besides some pb blaster and slide hammer away (which I've done) Cyl 5 Cyl 6 Cyl 4 Inside cat
Sorry for the delay guys, lots of internal crying lol maaan this is killing me. New wheels just arrived today..no real need for them without a working working motor. But finally posted my latest update. Thank you all guys! Thanks for the patience and constant tips and hints on what to check/do next.
Thanks Ksducati and man I'm sorry to hear you haven't found your issue. Since I'm having the same problem I was hoping you would find your solution so I could try it as well. So now after hearing your story I may go ahead and pick up new spark plugs since I've run my engine multiple times for anywhere from 1 minute to 10 minutes all at rough idle and misfiring. If I didn't have fouled plugs before I very well could now.
Jagcode3 - the small rubber hose you were referring to goes to the rear crossover coolant pipe and I absolutely reconnected it. The photo you reposted was before re-assembly. The small yellow connector went to the bottom of that coolant pipe. What I still can't confirm 100% is if I didn't mix up that connector with the symposer connector but I highly doubt it as I recall remove the coolant pipe electrical connector and shoving it in the corner by the passenger side firewall.
Make sure your new injectors are not fake before putting them in! Double check your spark plugs are not fake either - there is a Bosch and NGK counterfeit syndicate out there.
