If the injector base is stuck in the bore, the cylinder head must be removed to extract it without damaging the head.

Due to the lack of space in the engine compartment, it's best to remove the engine and gearbox with the front subframe to remove the cylinder head(s). Here is an X351 fitted with the AJ126 that required head gaskets due to overheating:


New timing chains, guides and tensioners were also fitted.

 

I can comment some on fuel trims.

Fuel trims are stored in volatile memory and are lost with a battery disconnect and restarted at 0 STFT/LTFTs and normally begin immediately to respond to O2 sensor inputs; STFTs look like a data log of the front O2 sensors while LTFTs reestablish. This all happens rather quickly if the tune data tables are not changed.

I did a lot of this for about 12 years as I was tuning cars using hack SW (but not jaguars, only American cars). Fuel trims would also zero out every time I reloaded a modified tune. Or, any time a battery disconnect happened. Modifying injector data in the fuel data tables of a tune is a lot of work to get correct so lots of tune reloads as I was making corrections to the data. I have hours of time in reading datalogs. My conclusion, given some of the issues and how they manifested in this thread, FTs were zeroed out anyway.

I also want to make one other comment about fuel additives. I am obsessed with them and have been using them to keep injectors clean ever since owning my BMW M6 in 1988 when the manual recommended Techron as a regular use. I will drive out of my way to fuel our cars (any of them) at a chevron as it is top tier fuel and techron is in the fuel. Also, about twice a year, I will supplement that by splitting a can between my wife's F-Pace and my (at this moment in time) Aston DB11 V12. In all these years, I've never had injector issues.

Something about techron, there are two products out there, one of which is titled Injector Cleaner, the other is Complete Fuel System Cleaner. The complete is a higher concentration of the injector cleaner so is the better purchase. In the cases herein, a little late now, but for the future after these issues get fixed, I highly recommend some form regular additive whether BK44 or Techron, and important too not to overdo it. Use recommendations on the product should be followed.

Hope this gives a little more insight.

EDIT: I want to add - either a stuck (open or leaking) injector or a dirty (clogged) injector will cause a misfire.

 

That is a great set of pictures! Hope to never tear mine down that far though.
I do envy all the wide open access after fighting changing injectors/rear water manifold with the engine in place.
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I think I've reached the point where I don't want to hear anymore🤣 I'm very kidding and really do still appreciate the comments and guidance. It's ups and downs for me rough Rollercoaster of realizing and accepting this newly created "cost" without any real upgrades..with the heap of cash spent on this fix its a bummer there's no all inclusive vacation or gold plated supercharger cover that comes with the money spent..just the same ol car with some new injectors. I'll definitely keep you all in the loop and update ya once injectors are in. FINGERS CROSSED no misfires after all this-geeeeeeez.
Hope to hear some good news from trainingthedragon soon, fingers are crossed for ya 👍

 

morning folks. Yes morning here in SoCal. I will be working on the car later today and will update this eve "hopefully" with good news. I'm trying to be an optimist.

Ksducati, did you ever get that last injector remnant out or are you going to have to pull the head?

Dionysus, thanks for your thoughts and info re: injectors, fuel trims and best practices. So question for you, since I haven't changed any tunes on my car but the battery has been disconnected for a decent amount of time, couple of weeks now, and from what you said fuel trims have been cleared and reset, could that alone cause running rough and misfires? And if so, and there may not actually be anything wrong do you think I need to maybe just drive the car and go through some kind of "relearn" procedure, or maybe just drive the car and it will clear up on it's own?? Of course with the assumption coils are good and injectors are good. AND, separately do you know a good way to test the injectors without removing them?

Thanks

 

One additional question as I have new plugs now. Anyone know the gap for the V8? I searched on line and got a variety of responses. Seems like 0.32 seems like about it but wanted to confirm.

 

Hi @Trainingdragon ,

When FTs are zeroed out, then engine restarted there should be no noticeable difference in engine performance and certainly no misfires. By their very nature, FTs are constantly learning/changing to "conditions". Conditions vary constantly and some of the variables - ambient air temps, engine coolant temps, fuel (octane), air density (altitude). Even timing, although on engine management systems (EMS), any that I know of, timing is chosen from fixed tables and alternate (adjustment) tables so data tables cannot be changed unless a tuner with hack SW is changing them.

There is an outside possibility you have a bad crank position sensor (as this is where misfires are IDed by the ECU). I am not suggesting going on a parts replacement mission here, especially since there is another member on here experiencing the same thing after doing much of the same, and I have no knowledge of history on this engine with failed CPSs or cam position sensors which can also sometimes lead to misfires; but in both of these cases there would be P-codes specifically IDing a failed sensor, such as a P-0335 - 39, or a P-0340. So, without those codes I wouldn't suggest a parts hunt. Just some EMS theory.

 

I am not having any luck on the extractor route. The short 3min youtube video out there seems to make sense-I like the idea but I'm just not having luck with it. Likely head removal but will let you guys know of any changes in my situation.

 

ksducati, sorry to hear you're not having luck with your injector. Pulling the head could turn out to be a very big job especially if you can't do it without removing the engine/cradle which is going to be very hard to do without a lift.

dionysus, thanks for the added info. I haven't seen those particular codes but I'll keep that in mind. And good to know that no battery connection and reset fuel trims shouldn't cause misfires and rough running is good to know and helpful. So an additional question. I have the air intake tubes down to the air filters on but not tight as I've been troubleshooting and removing them. Is there any chance those loose plastic tube connections could cause this issue?? It would mainly be unfiltered air coming into the throttle body. The sensors by the airboxes are connected though and should be providing readings. Just a thought??

 

Yes it has turned into the worst case scenario. I'll probably go the shop route and tow the car..but wondering since the injector is broken, the fuel lines are disconnected- battery is also disconnected and electronic parking brake is on. What would be the best route to release electronic parking brake? I know if battery is now connected and I open the door or turn on accessories to be able to release electronic parking brake fuel will spray and make a mess right? Fuel pump/coolant both seem to kinda pump and flow a bit by just turning accessories on (I believe even opening the doors?) Is there a fuel connector I can unplug? Silly question- just trying to figure out how not to make a mess of gas and coolant while prepping to get this towed. Thanks a ton,Kevin

 

ksducati what a bummer. I was rooting for you while also rooting for myself. I had to push my work to tomorrow as my friend couldn't make it today. I don't have the answer to your question just wanted to express my sadness for your situation.

 

Appreciate it man, only myself to blame but shoot I really thought I'd feel the right point to stop slide hammering before the injector broke. Seems like a few mobile mechanics located in the UK that extract these injectors -must be common. Not sure what their success rate is but handy option to have if there were any in the Chicagoland area.

 

Hi @Ksducati

Yes, I agree with your assumptions about connecting the battery, at this point are all accurate in my mind and I would not do it.

Electronic parking brakes can be manually exercised without the car battery but will take a little effort. You will have to remove the rear wheels, you can do this one at a time.

Remove (unplug) the connector to the ebrake. This is a 4 pin connector. The two END pins on the brake motor side of the connector are +12v. Take a 12v source, ground the negative, touch the positive to one of the end pins. This basically applies voltage to the motor. One end pin winds the motor down, the opposite end pin unwinds the motor, just keep it applied for a second or two until it completely unwinds. If it were me, I would leave both sides unplugged until the car is ready to be back on the road, then reapply the voltage to those opposite end pins to wind them down then plug connector back in. With car battery you should be able to use the release handle to operate the brake normally.

If it were me I would use my CTEK 7002 which can supply 12v.





Hope this helps.

 

Hi @Trainingdragon ,

The MAF (one each side) is the key. ANY air leaks after the MAF(s) would cause lean conditions. Any air leaks before the MAFS, no. However, even if that occurred, it would have to be a pretty large air ingress after the MAF to cause a misfire. At first, the ECU would be trying to add fuel the first few signals from the O2 sensors indicating lean, but when these signals continue and the O2 sensor quits oscillating lean/rich, the system is going to quickly issue a P-0101, 02, 03, etc. This is the same for vacuum leaks that show up in the engine. If the additional unmetered air is entering into cylinders which create lean conditions, the MAF is going to be blamed usually first, then the O2 sensor. I think I read some theorized in this large thread which admittedly I did not completely read that vacuum leaks might be the problem? I think it was here...on too many car forums.

I also want to correct something - I don't want to steer you off course with the CPS which I hope I didn't do. Even if the sensor was bad, it would not cause misfires, just might report them but the engine wouldn't, shouldn't be shaking, or obviously misfiring which I believe was reported here.

Best,

 

Hmmm....

Isn't there a fuse for the fuel pump? Pulling that wouldn't negate much of the fuel spray?

 

There is, the fuse is in the glove box. I was hoping it was under the hood or hatch... Funny thing with the glove box is that button is TOO electronic which I had no idea🤣 maaan crapped on from all angles the smallest things are even getting me. So in order to pull the fuel pump fuse I would need to connect battery to power glove box which I'm thinking a bit of coolant and fuel would "prime" spraying the engine bay?

 

very good to know! Thanks a ton, not sure what other situations I'd use this info for but very cool 👍 makes sense

 

I would be shocked if there wasn't another way to manipulate the glove box open..okay..maybe not too shocked!

 

Same! I did some google'ing assuming there must be another way in besides hooking up power...no luck. Too "funny". Hope the car gives me some serious joy IF or when it's back to driving hahaa geez. Maybe all just a bad memory in the near future🤞

 

Thanks again for all the continued feedback and conversation. You know I have to say that all of the electronics and technology is on one had a great thing, but when it gets so complicated and convoluted it makes it very difficult to DIY. Something that can and should be so simple can turn out to be like unraveling the space shuttle computers. Given what we are experiences with our odd situations on our cars here I can only imagine (I hope I'm wrong and probably am) that playing with the electronic e-brake at each rear wheel could potentially through the computer off in the car and it goes into self-destruct mode haha. You can probably tell I've been on this for too long now.

Dionysus, you mentioned the CPS. Apologies but can you remind me what the CPS is and associated sensors?? And thanks for your thoughts on the plastic intake tubes that I left loose just for quick testing. When I get it back together today I'll certainly tighten those up to eliminate that from the problem, but I kind of doubt its an issue. They all fit pretty snug even with out the clamps being tight.