Thanks man, yes back and forth for a while on color choice but an already blacked out car with tinting windows this week I felt black wheels should work. Really liked the deeper/concaved rears.
those are some serious rides of yours, I love it. Maaan I love all cars..it is a disease.

 

YES,...I've the same disease....

 

we probably all do LOL

 

I'm not a black wheel fan but this ride altogether looks great.

 

My metallic grey coupe V6S came with black wheels and I always thought I would have preferred silver ones. This was until I saw a silver-wheeled one parked next to mine. I don't know if it's just my age (64), but now I think that silver wheels are something out of the 70's and 80's.
Black wheels make the F-type look more aggressive and modern IMHO.

 

I've been doing black wheels all the way back to the XJs I've had. I describe the change the same - The car went from elegant looking to angry looking...LOL.

I'm on numerous car forums. This wheel color discussion is universal among car people. There are some threads hundreds of posts long just discussing the love/hate of black wheels. Especially true on Corvette forums.

Every once in a while, someone will comment - Black wheels are just a fad. I always disagree and remind them that black wheels are a tradition not a fad that will ever go away. Black wheels were here at the start and have never failed to appear on cars/trucks throughout history.

 

Hi guys!
So I'm also joining this thread, although I don't like it. In cooperation with a mechanic friend from JLR, we modernized the cooling system with aluminum pipes, including replacing small parts from the purchased kit. Including the supercharger clutch. At the same time, we dismantled the sympozer, including blinding the two relevant holes. At the same time, we sealed the right timing cover cover, from which engine oil was leaking and dripping onto the alternator.. And as a precaution, we replaced the PCV valve. When bleeding the new coolant, the engine ran normally. So I drove the car around the area to completely bleed the coolant. After half a kilometer, when I added almost full throttle, "something" went wrong and the engine stopped running smoothly, started sputtering and a message popped up - Engine fault. So I slowly drove home and used the Dashcommand OBD reader. Code P0301 and P0302 Misfire 1st and 2nd cylinders. The next day, the mechanic came with a "big" diagnostic and confirmed the errors and the fact that they cannot be erased. The diagnostic does not report any other errors. During a visual inspection, he immediately found the first defect - a loose ground cable on the right timing chain cover, which was dismantled during the leak. He tightened it, but even after replacing the spark plugs and inductors, the error cannot be erased. The engine still stutters. Cylinders no. 1 and 2 (both on the right side of the car) do not fire. My wife and I wanted to go to Sardinia in a few weeks, but it may not be in the F-type. I also have our veteran XK8 in reserve, but it was not planned. Many thanks for any advice. I have been awake for the third night thinking about it... I have read this entire thread and (so far) I am convinced that I did not forget the rag in the SC.. Thanks to everyone!

 

Not sure if you're asking for input to a misfire problem still not solved.

If so, if appears you've checked/replaced ignition parts on cyls #1&2 with the problem still existing?


Remember that combustion occurs by a combination of - Air - Fuel - Ignition. All 3 need to be present. If you're sure about the ignition part, there is still the air part and the FUEL part. Sometimes Misfires are caused by lack (or too much) fuel.

 

Hi.
Thanks for the response.
Yes, I gradually removed the ignition coil and spark plug from the third cylinder, which works properly, and put them alternately in cylinders no. 1 and no. 2. I put the ignition coil and spark plug from the first and then from the second cylinder on cylinder no. 3. Unfortunately, the error did not move, the third cylinder runs like a kitten with all the coils and spark plugs that I used. The error still remains on the 1st and 2nd cylinders. I have already installed the original PCV valve back to be sure. Again, no change. Misfire 1+2 cylinder. All water and vacuum hoses that I can see are connected. I have already removed the air filter pipes to have better access to the engine breast. I have not found anything loose or unconnected there yet. I checked all the fuses under the dashboard on the right side in the cabin and in the engine compartment on the left by beeping with a multimeter. I still have to check the fuses on the left side under the steering wheel (LHD). I'm starting to get pressed for time, so I'm considering removing the supercharger again... What if there's a rag in there? The mechanic who did it doesn't have time for me anymore. And he's a friend and he did it for a very friendly, almost symbolic amount of money, so I have nothing to complain about. He promised to stop by again, but I'm starting to get the feeling that he doesn't know what to do either. Thanks for any inspiration.Edit: I don't expect a rag or towel under the SC, I had the holes taped over with paper tape.

 

I understand there could have been "something" left behind during the pipe repairs. That did happen here to one other member here.

If this was my car, and giving some consideration to your friend who, it sounds like, is a professional mechanic, this would make something left behind restricting intake flow less likely. I would wager with the odds that you might now have a fueling problem. Namely, fuel injectors @ the #s 1 & 2 cylinders. A lot of people miss fueling as a possibility when there are "misfire" codes, but you might be surprised how common fuel injection issues are the actual cause of P03xx faults.

All the best with it...hope you have quick success getting it solved.

 

Thanks. Today my mechanic friend called me to say he found some time and we'll start working on it again this week. We'll do a complete review of the previous work and if we can't find the cause of the failure even after removing the SC cover, we'll consider testing the engine using replacement injectors that he'll take with him. I keep thinking back to the fact that the only demonstrable failure that occurred during our work was a loose ground cable on the right timing cover. Could it have caused some kind of electrical impulse that would have damaged the control unit? Could the unit be so asymmetrically damaged that it would have only disabled two cylinders? Quite a few question marks....I'm looking forward to the moment when we discover the fault. I've worked on motorcycles, cars and experimental aircraft my whole professional life and my experience is that most seemingly serious failures are caused by complete stupidity. Don't worry, I'll let you know, even if we forgot pliers somewhere in the engine.....

 

So I'll add an update.
Thanks to this great forum, full of willing people who always give advice when they know, my XK8 is still running today. Maybe it's time to return the favor to other people who find themselves in a similar problem as I am now with my F type.
The question is whether this still belongs here, in this thread about the Y pipe.
But to the point.
The mechanic who was updating the cooling pipes did not come across a possible defect why cylinders 1 and 2 do not work. His interest in solving the problem, so after hours of futile searching, came across the limited capacity of his free time.
The car is being worked on in my workshop, so I and the F type ended up orphaned.
However, as a car owner, I have a great motivation to repair it, especially because I want to go on a longer trip. So I immersed myself in self-study and devoted all my free time to the problem.
I dismantled the SC again and checked all the connections, connectors and cables. As someone already wrote here, the second time around, dismantling the SC and pipes seems much easier!
All pipes ok, all connections fine!
So, by the method of elimination, I came to the conclusion that I had to start all over again... Look for the cause of the problem in the only error that occurred during the update.
And that was the loose ground screw on the right timing cover!
Here I came to the conclusion that it was an electrical problem. I hate those the most! I measured the resistances or beeps. All injectors had the same value of 1.5 Ohm. That won't do! On both non-functional cylinders, however, I measured a different value on the three-pin connector, on the weakest wire, by comparative measurement, than on the functional, third cylinder! Attention! Something is happening!
The working cylinder (cylinder #3) has an "OL" reading, the non-working cylinders (1 and 2) have a reading of 1200! (With the battery disconnected of course) This indicates that the problem is not a broken wire, but rather 1. either an unwanted passage or 2. a damaged switching transistor in the control unit (PCM). This thin wire is a signal wire (it switches the coil to ground). A value of +/- 1200 probably means that there is something in this circuit that should not be there (e.g. internal damage to the unit after an electrical shock from a shorted ground). Why would it be in the unit? When the ground was open on the solenoid, the current could have tried to find its way back through other circuits. Since the coil signal wires go directly to the processor/transistors in the unit (that's what the AI ​​told me), this backfire could have "heated" them. This would explain why cylinders 1 and 2 are not working, even though the coils and spark plugs are ok. What to do now? (Key test) I need to find out if the "1200" is coming from the harness (short to another wire) or from the control unit.
So I disconnected the main connector from the control unit (PCM)
I measured the weak wires on the coil connectors (photo) again (with the unit disconnected):
Now the multimeter in the beep function writes the value OL everywhere!
So the wires in the harness are fine and the problem is unfortunately inside the PCM control unit (burned out outputs for cylinders 1 and 2 after fluctuations in the ground voltage).
And here the story ends for now! I gave the conclusion about my possible finding to the mechanic. The next day he arrived, removed the PCM control unit (it is under the fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment), and took it to a specialist who will measure the unit and, if possible, repair it. Otherwise they'll buy me a new one! Fair deal! That's the end of the story for now.
In the meantime, I'll drill a hole in the block for water leakage, clean the engine block under the compressor and maybe reassemble the entire engine. Then I'll wait for a repaired or new PCM control unit.
At the same time, I decided to do maintenance on the XK8 if the F-type remains undriveable.
Thanks for your attention and space.
Great forum...maybe someday this anabasis of mine will help someone solve their problem.
Cyril.

 

@Cyrilmoto Great detective work! Thank you for sharing.

Something happened during the recent engine work to cause this.

But it makes one wonder why would this loose ground on the timing chain cover caused a fault within the PCM just for cylinders 1 and 2?

Can you measure cylinders 4,5 and 6 just to compare?

 

The other cylinders showed the same values ​​as the working cylinder three. Each side of the engine has several ground points. However, only the ground on the right side of cylinders one and two was free. Cylinder three has another ground on the back of the engine. This afternoon, the mechanic brought the repaired PCM unit, where the specialist replaced the integrated circuit that was faulty. (Number 2.) The car started on all six cylinders, but after a while the engine started to stutter slightly again. We have currently read the error of the second cylinder... So slight progress, cylinder one is ok so far. The PCM unit is on its way to the repair shop again. We will see what happens in the next step.