Glad to hear! And yes, I'll keep ya posted and hope to give everyone some solid updates within a week or so. Thanks a ton to all and will let you guys know the outcome soon.

 

I am interested in your left over parts. I sent you a PM.

 

Just an update on the car if anyone is still curious where I'm at.

The car is at a nearby "reputable shop" and the quote is STEEP. Dealership won't touch the car since it's already in the process of being worked on..and the quote from the shop is about $9k..OUCH!. cylinder head removal which includes replacing that bank of injectors (purchased separately oem so quote doesn't include this cost) along with timing chain, tensioner and tensioner guide, valve covers, seals, coolant and oil change.


After completing the coolant pipes I did not fully connect a vacuum line on the drivers side rear head-when starting the car after this project the car had misfires in cyl 4 5 and 6 all drivers side bank. Plugs and coils were replaced. Same misfire experienced so I figured injectors were the next step.
I whole heartedly feel injectors weren't bad and entirely wish I had slowed down. I believe that the unplugged vacuum line was the original issue which clogged up/fouled the plugs and if I had realized the new plugs were fouled at this point and changed them I do believe I'd be driving the car right now.

-vacuum line was the issue
- connected vacuum line but same misfire when starting ("new" plugs fouled)
-attempted fuel injectors removing inj 6 as I thought this would be a good next step

-stuck/seized injectors 4 and 5 led me to checking plugs-fouled after running motor with vacuum line disconnected
-changed driver bank plugs
-reconnected fuel rail and old inj. 6 WITHOUT new oring or Teflon seal...similar rough motor misfire once back together.

I believe the vacuum line was my first mistake and secondly was not properly re-installing old injector. Major bummer. Learning process I suppose but a costly one that should have been avoided. It will be hard to look at the car the same at this point. Go slow, take your time and do as much research possible when taking on projects. I'm far from an expert mechanic but can follow directions and this shows how important it is to read about as much as possible for each step you take.
Hopefully back on the road in the next week or two once they're finished🤞

 

Thanks for update. Really too bad things happened the way they did. You have good advice. Hope you follow up when you're back on the road.

Best,

 

Thank you, yes!
Not that I intentionally broke the injector but I do remember reading a guy's solution to seized injectors is to break the injector and use an extractor. I wouldn't go this route to anybody reading. Do anything you can not to break an injector in the cyl head..seems like common sense but thought I'd mention this since some may think the extractor route is a solution.

 

Ksducati, man I'm sorry to hear how this ended up for you. In all fairness I'm very similar to you. I am by no means a "mechanic" but I'm decent at sorting things out and wrenching. I agree with slowing down but to be honest, as much as I've received great advice here and watched some really good videos, I haven't seen a true step by step guide to it like it in a shop manual. So we hobbiests just go at it using a practical and logical approach. With your miles, I'm a bit surprised you need a timing chain and guides but what do I know. If I recall your mileage is similar to mine in the low 40k range? I'm kind of curious if they are going to drop the cradle and engine to pull the head or if they can do it in the car.

 

29k miles, super sad. Sounds like since the parts must come off for the head that the chain tensioner and guide is just "part of the process". Yes, I'm wondering the same and will call later today to see if they plan to remove the motor or not. Part of the quote was to disconnect the A/C which I wouldn't think needs disconnecting unless the motor is coming out...and if it is pulled out I might have them pull the passenger side injectors since it should be a ton easier to do since you can pull on them directly vs angled..anybody think this is silly? Figure I'm in this deep and for the piece of mind starting new might be worth just doing if the motor is pulled to just do the other injectors..

 

You know with that much tear down and work involved it might be a good idea to either clean or replace all injectors at this point. I've seen images of these injectors with rather low miles looking all gummed up. And yes please share if they need to pull the motor to do this work.

 

delete

 

@Ksducati My condolences. Your intentions were honorable to mod and maintain your new F-Type to your satisfaction.

Can you please post a picture of your disconnected vacuum line?

If you missed this particular connection even after double-and triple-checking, then someone else on the forum doing this job will too.

Did you ever have a chance to do the smoke test?

 

Absolutely, you're right. The connector was "on" but maybe the third passover of checking all connectors is when I really pressed this vacuum line in place and realized it was not seated properly. This vacuum line was behind the drivers side head and looks to be a pretty big vacuum line. Hose wraps around the rear of the motor towards passenger side then extends towards the front of the motor.

I did not smoke test the car thinking aaah, it would be really nice to have the feeling of starting fresh with new injectors coils and plugs for the freshly tuned "new to me" car. I thought I was prepping the car for the longterm ownership hoping to do anything that could go wrong while I own the car up front-likely not needed with so few of miles and ended up where I'm at now...for the low low fee of 9k$ I should be good.

the picture is close but hopefully you get the idea looking towards the rear of the motor on drivers side head. Two push tabs one on each side.

 

So I may be mistaken but I believe that connector goes on the back of the Supercharger, not the head. At least it did on mine with the V8. BTW, it's a lot easier to deal with when the Symposer is gone

 

aah yes-you are correct. Back of the supercharger manifold..good catch! My mind has not been clear lately. This car has scrambled it..we'll my mistake made and the price tag to fix it has anyways😭🤣

 

no worries. And in all fairness I would be very surprised that having a small leak there generated all of these problems. I would think that when it's seated properly the computer would self correct as the car ran but I'm not an expert. I'm thinking your issues were caused by other parts not being very happy, possibly a bad injector or two or plugs??? After the non-sense that I did on mine causes absurd codes and running horrible, once I pulled out the dang rags from the intake and put it all back together it was absolutely fine so with that in mind, again I would think the computer would self correct if it was as simple as that vacuum line being loose.

 

My thought is that this vacuum line was my initial issue and that if it was fully connected from the start I wouldn't have had any of these issues. Spark plugs were changed while doing the coolant pipe project. After starting the motor several times to get the coolant flowing and topping off I believe the disconnected vacuum line fouled the plugs much quicker..causing the misfire. The check engine light wasn't on at first..but the more time running the car seemed to get worse (maybe vacuum line disconnected fouled plugs quick).

I went after injectors next because I already did the plugs thinking they were fine. Once I got stuck with the injectors I then checked the new plugs just because. This is when I saw they were already very black and corroded. (Maybe 30 min of running the motor). Drivers side bank plugs were the fouled plugs...passenger side plugs looked good. My thought is since the vacuum line was on the drivers side bank that this was likely the culprit.

Having already dug into the injectors before finding the new plugs fouled..I changed the driver side bank plugs again and connected the fuel rail and injector...problem is I didn't put a new o-ring or Teflon seal on the old injector..when sliding it back in it just didn't feel very tight at all...so once all was back together I again set myself up for failure. Huge bummer. This is when I thought it must be the injectors and just slide hammered away the seized injectors until cyl 5 injector broke.

I really hope that with new injectors plugs and coils this thing will be fine but likely won't ever be able to know 100% what caused the issue.

Just my guess was that vacuum line not connected which caused plugs to foul..not knowing this and assuming they were fine since they were new.

So many lessons learned and a very expensive project turned into the worst case scenario.

 

I can see your point. I certainly learned mine on this one

 

Thank you both @Trainingdragon and @Ksducati for sharing your experiences. All of us have learned a great deal from this thread and shared in your frustration.

The problem with the F-Type is it is such a beautiful and unique car, we are willing to face these challenges rather than walk away and say "Whatever..."

 

Sorry, been travelling for work, what do you need?

 

no problem at all, I ran into the same issue with a 16 f type s broken injector. Tried to remove but it broke I'm head. I couldn't get the extractor on and hoped to hear some tips...but ended up dropping the car off at a shop. Thank you, maybe folks would be able to benefit from hearing a bit more from your extractor method. I was able to get the plastic out of the way but couldn't get the 10mm on enough to grab and turn.

Thank you,
Kevin

 

So a new update. Here it is a few weeks after fixing my problem and dove the car quite a bit and noticed a "low coolant" note on the dash display. So low and behold and a pretty good coolant leak coming from under the supercharger. Either it's that small coolant connector pipe that goes from the oil cooler to the water pump or the oil cooler itself. Both of those are new along with their gaskets/seals. I'm just having the worst luck with this preventative project. I'm wondering now if I should have just left the original coolant pipes and wait for them to fail. They looked fine to me but I get the idea of preventative measures. I'm not happy to have to remove the supercharger for the 5th time now. I can only imagine that after some heat cycles something decided it wasn't happy. I have a feeling it's the small rubber seal on that coolant adapter pipe. I did not look like a great design to me but it seems so many people on here did that job with no issues. Not sure why I'm having such terrible luck with this job.