The coolant should be orange Dexcool. If your’s is, then you could top it off with Orange 50/50 premix.

 

If it's only a schmidge low then I would probably just add distilled water. Unless you live in an extremely hot or extremely cold climate but even with that your mixture should be very close to perfect. Just my humble opinion

 

I agree with this.

 

question as I don't seem to have all of my receipts from my first install. I want to replace the small grommet style orings that go from the oil cooler to the coolant connector pipe and the connector pipe to the water pump. They are large O-rings. Does anyone know if those are the exact same part and part number. I'm having trouble finding it/them. I ordered what I thought was the right part and they were the wrong ones.

 

Those large o-rings are the same on both sides. They are Jaguar part number AJ811539. FCP Euro has both oem and aftermarket versions. https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=AJ811539

 

PS.. I used 2 O-Rings on the waterpump side and 1 on the oil brick side after the alloy connection pipe version failed the first time. Too loose fitting and leaking.
I used the plastic one and 3 O-rings in total and solved the issue.

 

Thanks guys. Pascal can you elaborate on what you did. Did you do it per factory design and it leaked?? I used (2) on the water pump side by mistake the first time (didn't realize the old one was still in the water pump) and that's how I bent the oil cooler outlet pipe and had to buy a new oil cooler.

If I understand you right, you had to remove the supercharger and oil cooler mulitple times due to leaks with those o-rings??

In my case I did it per spec, it was fine for a few weeks and then something let loose but I'm not sure what leaked. There's coolant everywhere under the supercharger so even though I have it all apart, there's no smoking gun.

 

So I got the oil cooler off today and cleaned up the mess it made removing it. I tried using a modest amount of psi pressure to see if the oil cooler might have a leak but it seems solid. So I think I can rule that out. The only thing I did notice is that the small pipe had a little dent in it probably from installing it as it's a really tight fit working it around the block sharp edge while massaging it into the water pump connector pipe. It doesn't seem to have created a leak at that point so I think it's probably ok. That aluminum is apparently really soft. I also noticed that actual tip of that pipe is slightly deformed probably also from installing it. I used very little pressure. One last thing I noticed is that the small o-ring grommets for those connections are a really tight fit. When I pushed one in the hole it goes in it actually deforms since the hole is a little smaller. Makes sense since that would give it a tighter seal but I can certainly see room for problems here.

 

So new question. Does anyone know the jaguar part number for the small coolant hose that goes under the supercharger from the rear crossover pipe to the throttle body. I might replace that as well including the clamps

 

Here is a link to Swallows Jaguar in the UK. They offer that hose in silicone.

https://swallows-jag.co.uk/select/

 

Hey thanks for the link. I actually have pretty good local sources here in the US for parts but couldn't find the part. I could use either the actual part # or what Jaguar calls that part. I tried a variety of part names and couldn't find it.

 

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're referring to the throttle body hose from the heater pipe. The part is VIN-specific and has been superseded to AJ813614.

As always, check the part number against the VIN for correct fitment.

 

Remember to always use the appropriate clamps for hoses joining to plastic fittings. Use constant tension clamps, or reuse the ones removed with the hose. DO NOT use jubilee or worm type clamps on any hoses having a connection to a plastic fitting as they can cause the plastic to fail prematurely.

 

NBCat yes that's the part I'm looking for. Thank you. One of the clamps broke so I used one from an Amazon kit I bought with a variety of constant tension clamps however it seems the Amazon clamps are crap and have no real tension. I'm looking to replace the clamp but having trouble finding it. Any suggestions? I have a worm gear clamp that looks like it would work well but people don't seem to like those. I was thinking of using it for the connection at the rear crossover pipe since it has good access, the pipe is now metal and I can replace it easily if it leaks. Again unless someone has a good resource for those clamps.

 

If you purchase the OEM version of the throttle body hose, I believe it come with the constant tension clamp. If you want to order the hose clamp by itself, the JLR part number is C2P14813.

 

Thanks. I don't think that's the right part, yet it will probably work. That's a crimp clamp and mine had a standard compression clamp that you can open/close with pliers. I'm fairly certain it's the original. I had the same at both ends

 

So brief update on my disaster project haha. So oil cooler back installed. I used rtv around the ports like in this one video I watched. Seemed like good insurance. New grommets, new gasket. It all went in well. Seems solid. I re-installed the supercharger (not fun since it's awkward and heavy and I work alone). Re-installing the various connectors on the back of the Supercharger are definitely not fun as you can see what you are doing but fingers and hands don't fit with that giant wiring harness that has no flex to it. I have the V8 so I believe there's even less space. Got it all connected and torqued down the supercharger. Throttle body installed. Now my latest fiasco. I couldn't get the belt re-installed. It seemed like I just couldn't get the tensioner shifted enough to create enough slack. After a closer look, the square hole is mangled giving me some play with m ratchet. NICE. I don't know of a way to fix that so I ordered a new tensioner. Seems like you need to put so much pressure on that tensioner to get the belt back on and I guess it's rather soft metal?? Also, i've seen a lot of posts where people talk about using a 1/2" ratchet to operate the tensioner. I'm not sure what that's about as mine only fits a 3/8" ratchet. 1/2" is way too big for the square hole. Have you guys seen any of that or are you also aware that it takes a 3/8" ratchet to operate the tensioner?

The never-ending project

 

Hi @Trainingdragon

Boy, you're really making me look back at things!

I could not get a good pic of the tensioner pulley on my V6 in the F-Pace (2018) because of all the items in the way, but I can see the socket hole, and memory was I used a 1/2" breaker bar to remove/install the belt when I did mine. There is no doubt mine is 1/2" and not 3/8"

If mine was 3/8" I would have used a 3/8 by 1/2 adaptor socket on my 1/2" breaker bar as any 3/8" tool is going to be too short. If I had to use 3/8" I would use a pipe over the handle of the 3/8 ratchet to give more leverage.

Finally, these tensioners do need replacing after some age. I wonder if a replacement tensioner wouldn't be 1/2"

 

I just installed a new SC belt this week and can confirm that the stock tensioner on my 2016 F-Type requires a 3/8" square drive. There isn't a lot of room between the tensioner and all of the coolant hoses and the radiator support diagonal braces, so space is at a premium. I found this tool to be very helpful -
I also do most of my work alone and found it easiest to reinstall the belt by first fitting it over all of the pulleys except the tensioner. I then use the tensioner tool, installed from the top (pointing toward the hood and in line with the body of the tensioner). Make sure the belt is captured between the tensioner and the tool. I pull the tensioner tool toward the passenger side of the car, and it rotates just past the mounting tab for the air inlet y-pipe 10mm bolt. I can then strap the tensioner tool in place using a very strong, short bungie cord connected to the black, tubular diagonal brace at the fender, behind the headlight. With the tensioner tool carefully locked in place and the tensioner at max travel, I get under the car and carefully slip the belt on the tensioner. Go back to the top and release the tensioner tool to tension the belt. Having the car on a Quick Jack so it can quickly go from on the ground to in the air makes the process a lot easier.

Best of luck with the rest of your installation. Hopefully you are near the end of this whole saga and you can get back to enjoying your F-Type again soon.

 

I have a similar belt tool in my Amazon cart. The one you linked to says it’s 1/2 inch.