Thanks Kypros. I've seen quite a few videos on that including ONCA engineering. I think I want to do that but for the moment I want to focus on getting the car running properly first. But to your point, my car only has about 43k miles and a fair amount of carbon and gew. Also a buddy of mine suggested I stop buying COSTCO gas as it's cheap and contributes to this problem.

 

I think you will find Costco gas is certified Top Tier.

https://www.costco.com/my-life-fuel-...toptiergas.com.

 

@Trainingdragon Sounds like you did a nice job of valve cleaning.

If you aren't smelling raw gas suggestive of a stuck injector, and everything is buttoned up, then go for a drive close to your house where you can pull over easily. That may do the trick. No "Italian tune-up" though until you are sure everything is OK.

 

With the Symposer removed I had more room on the back of the engine and the plug is just hanging in the area formally occupied by all the Symposer junk.
I hear you on the wire harness and that large hinged plastic cover. A big fight on cars with front opening hoods. You F-Type guys have better access with the hood opening the opposite way at the back of the engine compartment.
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BTW this is the video I found that talks about the need to short the battery cables to clear fuel adaptations and he notes that even if you fix the problem the ECU may not recognize it since the adaptations may stay fixed until cleared.

 

Clear the codes and take it for a spin!

 

Thanks for that last thought. I just shorted the cables but noticed that the dash is noting the battery is low. I know what caused that since I recall that when you connect a scan tool to the OBD port the computer stays active until you disconnect the battery which I forgot to do so it's charging back up now. As far as the codes, my scan tool won't clear the misfire codes as they are staying in as permanent. So now with the battery cables shorted for about a minute, I'll reconnect the battery possibly later on today and try to fire it up and see if any of that helped.

As far as just driving it, if it's misfiring, do I run the risk of damage to the engine if I drive it at all, even just locally near my house?

 

I don't know about that - anything is possible with these engines.

How bad does it sound when you start it up? A video might be helpful.

Plus running your OBD2 scan tool at the same time to capture codes/misfires. If you can isolate which cylinders are causing the misfires you are on your way to solving this. If all cylinders are misfiring then it's most likely vacuum/pressure-related.

 

Once it idles down the car shakes a bit, not volient though. The codes I was getting focused on I believe 3 cylinders, sometimes 5 cylinders but also gave P0300 and P0315 which kind of covers all cylinders. I'll try to do a video later on today. Not sure I can post it here but I'll see if I can.

 

So a little update. Now that I have shorted the battery terminals and "potentially" cleared fuel adaptations, I restarted the car and it seems like its actually running worse now. It's possible it needs to learn new fuel adaptations but the check engine light is still on, and it sounds the same if not even a little worse. I think my next approach will be to install new intake gaskets since they've been installed twice now and some of you have pointed out that they are one time use gaskets so I ordered them along with a new throttle body gasket and supercharger lid gasket. I'm trying all those things and see if that will make a difference. Probably take a week or so to get those parts. It will also give me a chance to see if I missed anything/connectors, maybe pinched any wires etc...

So the battle continues and sadly I'm not feeling optimistic.

 

Can you post a list of your active codes after clearing?

 

Here's some pics of current codes. Sorry for the photo size I didn't realize they would be so large.

 

These exact misfire codes also happened to @skizot and cleared on their own:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post2826353

The IPPC, BCM, TCCM, and canbus faults may be cleared by a BCM reset as @djyankees31 outlined:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post2155159

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...9/#post2166102

Give that a try, wouldn't hurt.

 

How did you turn over the motor to close the valves?

 

I'll check out those threads so thanks for sharing those. I wouldn't be surprised if the BCM codes was there before I started this project but I didn't have any issues and it almost seems unrelated but so hard to tell since all systems communicate with each other. I'll read through the BCM reset thread.

So I'm a little concerned about just driving the car to see if the problem clears up on it's own. I don't want to do damage since I can clearly smell that the car is running rich. And if it dies on me or I need to shut it down, I'm not sure how easy its going to be to get it back in my garage. My driveway slopes down to the street which could make it tough to get it back into the garage with a tow truck. Wish my driveway was flat LOL.

The P1315 code noted catalytic converter "damage". Does that mean that it's already damaged or is it simply eluding to a problem??

Robrt8, I was able to get a socket on the crank and rotating the engine clockwise to close specific valves and open others. I only did it a little as it didn't take much to close the valves I hadn't cleaned the first time.

 

So I read through a couple of those threads and it seems that cleaning the valves quite possibly could have caused my issue. However I didn't use a cleaner that burns through the system, I manually cleaned them and I could clearly see any debris and made sure I got it all out of each valve area, BUT, I suppose it's possible I didn't. So if that's the case, I'm curious if this would clear itself or if I have to deal with this differently??

 

Paging @OzXFR for some advice on intake cleaning and transient misfire codes:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post2182794

 

A couple weeks age I watched my neighbor get one of his non-running collectors cars delivered to his house and we have fairly steep driveways too. The tow truck driver just backed up the right distance from his garage so that when he extended the rollback flatbed, the edge was right at the edge of his garage and they rolled the car right into his garage, EASY.

Best of Luck,

 

Thanks WayneB. Adds a little comfort but still a little disconcerting considering driving the car with the rough idle and misfires and smell of running rich for concerns of damage to the motor.

With that in mind it seems that some have opted to just drive their cars and at least in some cases this cleared itself?? I've certainly started mine probably a couple of dozen times and even let the engine warm up with some light revs and no joy. So I wonder if idling wouldn't have worked for others but driving did???

 

Do you not have a local Jaguar/LR or British car mechanic that you can bounce some ideas off?