no, car drove ok, but the radiator fan was always working and engine light was on.
No misfires.

 

You might want to read section 4 of the OBD Guide. Those misfire indications are all arrived at by analyzing the crankshaft speed.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/p52g7...=659ue1zx&dl=0

 

Pascal thanks for the feedback. I believe my issue is different and I feel pretty confident I didn't mix up those two connectors.

DJS, thanks for that info. That's pretty far over my head. Do you understand it enough to be able to explain or do you think that info can lead me to what might have happened since I really only did the coolant pipes. So maybe something didn't get connected right when I put it all back together?? The car was running perfect before I started. So great info but sadly I really don't understand it.

 

So another thought. I noticed there's a message on the dash display that the car battery is low. I did a quick internet search and it seems that it's possible that a low battery could cause all kinds of problems. Anyone else have any thoughts on low battery level causing misfires and check engine light?? I'm charging the battery now so I'll test it again tomorrow after it's charged up.

 

Definitely charge the battery fully before doing any additional diagnostics work. These cars are incredibly susceptible to low battery voltage. A weak battery can cause a multitude of codes that are all unrelated to the root cause (low voltage).

 

Thanks Gearhead01. I'm charging it up now. So in your opinion, is it possible that a low battery can cause all of the misfire codes, flashing check engine light and very rough idle? Maybe all of my work is actually good on the coolant pipe work, especially since i had to do it twice due to a leak. I would hate to have to tear it all apart again to see if I missed something or pinched a wire etc....

 

So a little update. Fully charged the battery and still no good. Running very rich and misfires. I'm at a little bit of a loss at this point where to go besides taking it all apart again where I don't expect to find anything. Hoping some of you may have run into something like this before and can offer advice. I would hate to have to have it towed to a shop after doing all that work.

 

@Trainingdragon First of all thank you for sharing your arduous DIY journey with us, brave Knight!

While it is still fresh in your memory can you retrace all the electrical and vacuum disconnects and reconnects you had to do (x 2) for this job?

There is also a possibility some other unrelated line or connector got jostled or cracked (old hard plastic) during your work.

 

Hey Jagcode3 thanks for the response and I can only hope I'm not crossing any forum guidelines with the depth of my thread and project. I'm only using fellow DIYers as a source of sharing and info to hopefully complete this project. While I enjoy doing this type of work, all this computer stuff and electronics can make it a bit harder to diagnose even with scan tools.

So I've stared at what I can see and it all looks good. I double checked that connectors are seating, at least the one's I can access with the Supercharger back installed. At least I seem to have solved my coolant leak so that's a plus. I ran a smoke detector through one of the vacum ports and didn't see any leaks - those are good tools. The only real thing I changed was to remove the symposer. I capped it at the Supercharger with a solid aluminum piece designed to go there and capped the small tube that fed the symposer. I reconnected the electrical connector that was associated with the symposer. Since so many people have done that I can't imagine it would be an issue. So aside from the things I can't see, I believe all my connections are good.

 

@Trainingdragon You may have just figured it out - the symposer delete. Can you check all the hoses going from the removed symposer and trace back? Some posts I found:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2834616

and some pics down midway of the symposer remnants, most importantly the vacuum line:

https://www.fpaceforum.com/threads/i...-inside.50601/

I will see if I can locate a couple more references.

Before giving up - reinstall the symposer and see if that does it?

 

Jagcode3 great point. I'll check that more closely but the kit that I bought included an aluminum plate to cover the hold in the supercharger, a plug to put in the dashboard (should have no bearing on anything), and a small blue rubber hose to plug the port that feed air or vacum to the symposer. I believe the little blue plug should take care of that item you're speaking of but I'll look it all over again. I did a smoke test and didn't see any leaks but I'll check again. Great point but I don't think that's it. Thanks

 

Here's a photo I just took and it all looks connected to me. The little blue item is a plug to plug the small vacum port on the symposer connector.

 

OK, you are getting closer to the solution. It seems vacuum-related. Some more thoughts:



Any relation to this open line you found in post #37?

Can you check the vacuum hose connection to the intake as in these photos?

As it affects multiple cylinders, can you do a water spray test around your new gaskets that you were referring to in post #43. Did they give you the correct gaskets at the parts desk?

 

Did you purchase new gaskets for the intake manifold and throttle body? I believe they are single use. Use MAF cleaner to check for unmetered air.

 

@Robtrt8 That could well be it - he had to pull the SC off twice during this ordeal. @Trainingdragon what is the status of those gaskets? Did you install new ones the second time too?

 

Thanks Jagcode3. I'm not feeling optimistic yet but all take all the feedback I can get to hopefully avoid having it towed somewhere. So in post 37 that was a vacum line coming from the transmission which is apparently supposed to be open to vent gases out of the transmission so i should be good there. The intake really doesn't have any vacum lines other than one at the back of the supercharger which is secure. I don't recall any other vacum lines on the intake especially considering there really isn't much of an intake on these. The wings of the supercharger seem to act like an intake and bolt directly to the heads. The only other port is the large port from the symposer which I blocked off with custom plate design for it with a rubber o-ring which seems to create a nice seal. I also ran smoke through the large hose that goes from the airbox tube to the drivers side valve cover and didn't see any smoke coming from anywhere leading to a leak unless that's not a good place to do that??? Great photos you linked as that's all very familiar. In fact the tiny hose going from the symposer actuator looks broken in those photos and mine looks exactly the same. So now I'm wondering if that hose is really broken or if it was designed to have that small separation. It's a little ironic that my situation is exactly the same as his with that separated hose. Begs that question is it broken or separated by design? Either way, all of my hoses appear to be good especially considering the smoke tester.

Robrt8, yes I finally sorted out the intake gasket issue and found that they are indeed different part numbers. I brought my old part to the dealer and was able to match up a gasket perfectly so I should be good with intake gaskets.

So now I'm beginning to wonder if removing the symposer is causing my issues??? That's the only real change I've made. That being said, so many people of have done it successfully without running into what I'm running into.

I appreciate the continued feedback as maybe we can all sort this out together and learn from it? I'm totally ok eating humble pie if I messed something up, I just want to get this baby going again.

 

Also I noticed in one of the photos on the link (which are great btw) there was a note that pointed to the small port on the symposer tuning valve that stated "what to do with this" and I didn't see a response to that question unless I missed it.

 

I also saw the comment/question about the throttle body gasket. I didn't replace that as it seemed in good condition and I didn't see anyone else replacing that. In fact a lot of folks seemed to re-use all the metal gaskets. With that in mind, the intake gaskets are both new but installed twice now. Also, I didn't replace the supercharger lid gasket since I didn't see anyone else doing it, it seemed in great shape, and they are quite expensive. So in short, I "believe" those gaskets are good but???? I'm struggling to think that's the issue?

 

Does anyone know if a positive pressure smoke test can detect a vacuum leak at the new intake gaskets? Would it have to be done after the throttle body to get past the flap which is normally closed when the engine is off, but what about getting past the rotor chamber and that second flap?

 

So maybe I'll revisit the symposer delete. In my case I removed the symposer, blocked off the hole in the back of the supercharger with a designed block off plate, kept the metal bracket that held it along with the little electrical connection to the device that activated the symposer. This way I didn't have an open electrical connection. I used a small rubber cap (came with the kit) to plug the small tube/port coming off of the device with the electrical connector. Is there any chance that could be my problem and maybe I did that wrong?