So I certainly like the idea of the metal parts over plastic and most of them seem to fit just fine. It's only the metal coupler that goes from the oil cooler to the back of the water pump that seemed to have a loose fit. That's the only one that I'm going to back to plastic (factory). Certainly good and fair questions though as most people might say stick with factory but I would say not necessarily when it's a flawed design.

 

My fear regards keeping the plastic pipes was that there have been instances where ALL the coolant pukes out suddenly. The temp gauge doesn't react fast enough, then you need to replace/rebuild the engine! This can happen both with the old flanged plastic and the newer seamless bits.

Our indie shop did a thorough test after AL - pipe fitment. He insisted on using JLR o-rings, too. (The factory pipes were not available when we did ours)

@Turko If you want the contact info for our guy, send me a PM.

 

Your car, your choice. My choice is ALWAYS metal over plastic! ALWAYS!
It's just common sense and if you look at what's happened Jaguar agrees with this. They started with metal pipes. Then went to plastic and had all kinds of problems then at this late date went back to metal once more.

Why did Jaguar even change all this? Well we don't know as it was a business decision.
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I did the conversion for my peace off mind and it worked, since I lost the fear of loosing a “fatal” amount of coolent. And yes, it is possible that there can be a leakage at some time, but that could never lead to a fatal cw problem anymore.
The gaskets I used where all JLR’s and the only alloy part I did not use is the linkage from waterpump —> oil cooler, because of the “loose” fitment.

Is it a DIY job? Yes but not the easiest one and my advise in this would be to take your time. I am no car mechanic but have some technical skills. It took me 1 year of preparation to finally take the step to do the upgrade because I am in the camp of: if it ain’t broke don’t fix it….
The preparation (Many thanks for this Forum and it’s members) was crucial for me…Glad I did it although it took 2 times to take of the supercharger 🫣

Regarding the symposer delete… I did it and the car runs a sort of smoother, but I am thinking of replacing it again. There is more supercharger wine but I did like the “brutal” noise it gave….

 

Seeing your pictures of the control panel/dash, I'm curious what year your F Type is?. I don't have anything like those screens on my 2016. Bearly

 

It's like a 2019/2020+, the redesign got the screen upgrades as well as exterior changes.

 

So a little update. Car's back together and filled with coolant ready to bleed/burp the system. When I started it I noticed the car's running rough, check engine light is on. Let it run for a few minutes and didn't get better. Any suggestion how to troubleshoot?

 

pull the codes, buy an OBDII reader or bring it to an indy Jag mechanic or the dealer.

 

Just ran the codes with my AUTEL. the only code is a fault on the BCM which led to a code of U2300-62 Central Configuration. I can't be sure if that was there before or not since I didn't do a scan before I started the job. I'm about to research what that is but I was wondering if anyone else has run into an issue like this especially with this job. I'm pretty maticulous but I guess it's possible a connector didn't get reconnected but to be honest that would be hard to miss. Just started it a few times and still same issue, running rough and check engine light on.

 

So after researching the only code that popped up it seems completely unrelated so I'm trying to figure what happened. So no real codes but check engine light and running rough at idle, almost seems like it might be running rich but hard to tell. Curious of anyone who has done the coolant job and knows all that had to be disconnected and reconnected if something stands out that might be causing this. Oh and the only thing I changed was that I removed the symposer and blocked it off. I kept the bracket and electrical connector and reconnected that to avoid any symposer codes. I can't imgaine removing the symposer would cause this??

Any thoughts, greatly appreciated. I'm hoping not to have it towed to an Indy shop or dealer.

 

very quick googlefu shows this could be software related fault, would need updating.

 

Interesting but seems a little odd that the issue is associated with me doing the coolant pipe job. It ran fine before. I'm kind of thinking it's something I might have done but I was really maticulous and even had to do the job twice since I had a leak under the supercharger. I really don't want to pull it all apart a third time. Still hoping someone knows exactly what might have happened???? A bit frustrating since it seems so many people do this job with no issues.

 

So a little update. I pulled out my older scan tool "Actron" and it picked up some codes. Odd that my fancier AUTEL didn't. So here are the codes: P0300, P0306, P0302, P0307, P1315. All about misfires. So any thoughts how I could end up with this with the coolant pipe replacement job? And any thoughts how to trouble shoot this? Car was running perfect before I started the job so must be something associated with what I did.

 

Simplest answer is usually correct, something was left unconnected.

We bought the '17 XE off of a Mercedes mechanic who took it in on trade for an ML350. The XE had the Y pipe failure and the PO had lost faith in JLR. Mechanic did a pretty decent job except he didn't fully attach the vacuum line at the back of the drivers side head. Kept giving us a random misfire and rough idle. Gage had me spray MAF cleaner around the engine and the idle raised when I sprayed it in that area. Went looking around and there she was. Seated the hose until it clicked and everything was fine.

 

Simplest answer is usually correct….+1

I had also engine an fault after the coolant pipe jobs and that had to do with the temperature.(P0016/18 codes)
It took me 3 days to find out the 2 connectors from the symposer (which I deleted) was an exact match with the coolant cross-over temparature sensor…🙈
Switched them and everything was fine again…..

 

Thanks guys as this is helpful to give me specific things to look for. Very interesting though Robrt8 about the vacum connector at the back of the drivers side head, I don't recall anything there or anything I disconnected. The only one I recall in that area would be the vacum line at the back of the Superchargers on the drivers side.

pascal, interesting point about the coolant connector as I remember a video on that I think from Onca engineering. I was very careful to note which one went where but I guess it's possible that I swapped them?? Doubtful though. I'm also not getting any coolant errors only misfires.

I'll start digging into some of these and thanks.

I appreciate all the feedback and continued feedback. This job was a bit more challenging than I thought.

 

pascal, with your situation, was the car running rough, check engine light and misfires?

 

My apologies, hose may indeed be attached to the SC. Anyway, good to check all the connections.

 

Got it thanks. So I just checked it and it's seating completely (the supercharger pipe on the back so I should be good with that.

So I also just checked the electrical connectors for the coolant crossover pipe and sypmposer. The connecter on the crossover pipe has a small plastic retainer clip that connects to a hole in the crossover pipe in a perfect spot. With that in mind it seems hard to believe that I have those 2 connectors swapped.

 

So one addtional thought. I had the battery disconnected for about 3 weeks doing the job. I wonder if there's an issue with that where the battery being disconnected for that long can do something to the computer(s) affecting parameters?? I thought I saw a comment somewhere that a disconnected battery could require programming if disconnected for an extended period of time. Seems really odd but anything is possible I suppose.