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Sorry mate, I don't have anything to add to what I said in the linked thread and posts.
Never had any more misfire codes but also never used the CRC treatment again.
Maybe Trainingdragon can try one of these treatments you never know it might just cure whatever problem is causing his codes, a long shot I know but worth a try and nothing to lose.
Also maybe his problems are wholly or partly caused by dirty/partly blocked fuel injectors and he could try a dose of fuel system/injector cleaner such as BG 44K, Redline SI-1 or Techron? Again nothing to lose.
…except he’d have to run the engine quite a bit for one of those cleaners to maybe do something. Like Mr. Dragon, I’d be reluctant to do that with the way it’s running.
…except he’d have to run the engine quite a bit for one of those cleaners to maybe do something. Like Mr. Dragon, I’d be reluctant to do that with the way it’s running.
Thanks everyone. Unfortunately I did a search in my area and there doesn't seem to be any Jag repair places (Indys). The nearest Jag dealer is about 20 miles away. With that in mind it would have to be towed but I'm not giving in yet. I think the part that has me a bit baffled is that I didn't have these issues before I took on the coolant pipe job and also cleaned the valves while I was in there. It might be just a coinicidence but makes you think hmmmm, what did I do wrong or forget to connect or damage while I was doing the job. The only mod was to remove the symposer which doesn't seem to have caused anybody else any issues. So coinicidence??? Hard to say. I still think I messed something up but maybe not and it's something else. My buddy was wondering if this is what happens when you have the car sitting for several weeks with the battery disconnected maybe creating ECU issues but I doubt it.
My next step is to pull it all apart again when I get all the new gaskets, took a good hard look around, and then carefully put it all back together and see if that changes anything using brand new gaskets for the intake, throttle body and supercharger lid.
Aboiut the P1315 code and why we all jumped on that. It does NOT indicate that the cats are damaged (yet!) it indicates that if the current conditions causing the check engine light to flash continues the cat will be ruined. There is just too much variation to say exactly when you will cross over into cat damage. A short period of the flashing light and you will be OK.
I look at that code as a flashing red light to STOP what your doing and fix the car.
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What area of CA are you in? Then we could give you some suggestions for trusted independent mechanics, if you don't already have one. I know I have one that I trust very much located in Dublin CA.
Thanks for your thoughts on P1315. I can agree. I guess the tough question is how long do I consider running and driving the car to see if it clears on its own if I can't find any other reason for it.
Wayne B, I live in Santa Clarita, CA. I couldn't find any Indy's in my area. There are shops that "say" they work on Jag but they also work on almost any car so I'm not sure how good they are specific issues like this. I'm sure there are Indys in the San Fernando Valley and LA but that's at least 20-30 miles minimum which I just might have to consider if I can't fix this on my own. If you or anyone else is aware of any good Indy's in the Santa Clarita area, please share.
So a little update. I pulled out my older scan tool "Actron" and it picked up some codes. Odd that my fancier AUTEL didn't. So here are the codes: P0300, P0306, P0302, P0307, P1315. All about misfires. So any thoughts how I could end up with this with the coolant pipe replacement job? And any thoughts how to trouble shoot this? Car was running perfect before I started the job so must be something associated with what I did.
Afternoon, sounds like I'm in a similar situation. After sitting for 5 months of cold chicago winter, my 2016 f type s manual with 29k miles has had the original coolant pipes replaced, along with water pump, thermostat and spark plugs while in there..I replaced the spark plugs (oem) figuring it would help start fresh with the ALSO added velocity ap stage 2 tune, pulley and mina intake. First time starting and driving was this morning hoping to feel the increased power..drive was cut short with check engine light on and flashing codes p0304 p0305 p0306 and p1315..feels like car is definitely misfiring and power loss so I turned the car around and parked it. Have no idea what to check now after checking vacuum lines and electrical connectors all seems solid along with checking intake was all tightened up no leaks..no idea.
If the motor is spun even a little bit backwards apparently the timing chain on the fuel pumps can jump time. If the motor is spun backwards more than even a little it can jump time on the valve train too.
I was at lunch with my off again/on again boss at Bentley's Marine today. This year I'm only delivering boats to the marinas. As I've mentioned in my stereo build log, he was JLR master level tech and then service manager for a couple years. He quit in 2014 to start Bentley's Marine and Electronics.
I mentioned the ongoing thread and he asked what were the codes so I showed him the screen shots posted. He said some guy asked about rotation method and I said that was me. He asked what was the response and I said I think he rotated it back and forth with a wrench to close the valves he was cleaning. He said I bet the fuel pumps jumped time. He called his Level 4 tech buddy at my dealership and asked if he was remembering that correctly and the tech added the valve train timing as a possibility as well.
Got home and re-read the response and I see OP said he rotated the motor clockwise, which I believe is correct so, I don't know. Still think it's a strong possibility that the fuel pumps timing is off given he smells unburned fuel.
This is all good to know, thanks. Sounds like @Ksducati didn't turn the crank or clean his intake valves, so hopefully this is not a timing issue. So back to the detective game:
Some more possibilities - swap coil packs on the affected cylinders? I found some posts on other model forums where any coolant getting near the plugs or coil packs results in a misfire on that cylinder.
Can you guys check your PCV hoses on both sides for cracks or blockages? Pics are from @mwinner
I have put a page out to @jahummer who has done this job many times...
Catching up on all the posts which are greatly appreciated. So I am 99% sure I ONLY rotated the motor clockwise (standing in front facing the motor) which I would think should be fine. I didn't rock it back/forth. I'm far from an expert but I recall it's best to only rotate a motor in the direction it would normally rotate otherwise you might affect the rings on the pistons. So the subject of fuel pumps timing and valve train timing is new. I want to learn more about that. It seems so hard to believe that simply rotating the motor could have this level of impact but maybe it does. I mentioned this to my car buddy and he was shocked to hear that the fuel pumps might be affected by this rotation?? I'll read over the reference to this but now I'm wondering how this is designed where fuel pump timing is an issue here? Or valve train timing. AND, how would I check and/or fix it ??
So I read through the link to a technical manual that shows the high pressure fuel pumps but I really didn't understand what to do with that info. It looks like the high pressure fuel pumps are driven mechanically from the crank with an auxiliary drive chain. I'm assuming that's not the actual timing chain. I'm not sure I see how I could have messed that up by doing what I did but maybe I don't understand how the system works and as I mentioned above, how to check it and fix it if I messed it up??
This is all good to know, thanks. Sounds like @Ksducati didn't turn the crank or clean his intake valves, so hopefully this is not a timing issue. So back to the detective game:
Some more possibilities - swap coil packs on the affected cylinders? I found some posts on other model forums where any coolant getting near the plugs or coil packs results in a misfire on that cylinder.
Can you guys check your PCV hoses on both sides for cracks or blockages? Pics are from @mwinner
I have put a page out to @jahummer who has done this job many times...
Morning, when installing the vap lower pulley I kept the crank shaft as still as possible. Should the motor be rotated manually to fix a fuel/timing issue? Shoot I never heard anything about this before tackling the projects 😭. I'm not entirely sure what's needed to be done here with rotating the engine..? Just trying to soak it all in not positive what is meant here. I did check both driver and passenger side pcv hoses which are solid. Heading to garage now to swap coils-thank you for the update!!
@Ksducati No worries with the lower pulley install. It is turning the crank backwards to close valves for cleaning that could cause this. That's a lot more movement than what the lower pulley removal and install entails. I think you and @Trainingdragon can cross that one off the list of suspects.
@Ksducati No worries with the lower pulley install. It is turning the crank backwards to close valves for cleaning that could cause this. That's a lot more movement than what the lower pulley removal and install entails. I think you and @Trainingdragon can cross that one off the list of suspects.
phewww, sounded a bit serious hahaa, maaan fingers crossed. taking a look at coils now on the drivers side bank. I know a bit of coolant spilled out when removing the top two side coolant connectors off sc lid, thought I cleaned it up good enough but will take a look🤞
