Hi @Trainingdragon

If it is just the small connector pipe, you might be able to get that by removing the water pump only. I know on the V6 that is possible as when I had the first low coolant notice I took a guess it was the water pump. I pulled it and renewed that connector and gaskets along with the pump. Then when the leak continued I faced the fact it was deeper and then removed the SC to replace the Y-pipe.

If I suspected the connector was leaking on our V6, I would definitely go through the water pump before pulling the SC. Doesn't help if the cooler is leaking.

Best,

 

Hey man, I agree with you completely. I paused at that spot for quite a while trying to get that rubber o-ring/seal "just right" (so I think) while sliding the water pump into it..then pulling it off and redoing it..seemed like a bad design like you said and figured there would be a better way to connect/create that seal. I was tempted to put some rtv type gasket sealer on the inside of that water pump outlet to oil cooler inlet helping that rubber seal..but also like you said haven't heard anybody talking about it so I figured there must not be much pressure and the seal is likely good enough. Though I haven't got to the stages of actually driving the car much and getting it hot/cold I hope that WHEN my car comes back from the shop that it's all good😭🤣. I remember starting the motor up and getting a flashlight and looking above oil cooler below sc for any coolant leaking. Glad you brought this up-I really did pause here for a while wondering hoping I just over thought this portion of the project and that the seal would be okay.

As for mine, No update yet...other than yes..car is still at the shop for head removal to get the broken injector out. All injectors will be replaced along with new timing chains tensioner /guide.. I'll update ya hopefully by the end of next week-can't imagine it would be longer as they've had it for nearly 2 weeks😑

 

Thanks guys. I'm thinking I'll do a pressure test to see if I can see where the leak is coming from before I take anything apart but it's so tough to see in there even with a boroscope camera. I probably won't work on it this weekend as I'm on other projects but probably next weekend. For now, once again, she just sits in the garage. If it does turn out to be the seal in that little coolant adapter pipe, then maybe I need to hire a space shuttle mechanic who will bring out his micrometer for placing the seals?? Also I noticed that it doesn't take much force at all to bend or even dent that small coolant pipe coming out of the oil cooler. Incredibly soft metal.

Ksducati, hoping for the best on yours and definitely keep us posted.

 

DON'T be tempted to use the 'normal' RTV.

Instead, use a non-hardening sealer that allows disassembly in the future, like Hylomar Blue.


Specifications:

• Non setting jointing compound
• Resistant to oils, lubricants and fuels
• Resistant to high temperatures

 

I'm tempted to want to consider a sealer but those o-ring style bushings don't seem like they would do well with sealer. I'm going to start tearing into it next weekend. Can't believe I'm pulling the supercharger for the 5th time now.

Just curious, are the small bolts used for the oil cooler and coolant pipes etc. one time use bolts (stretch to yield) or are they re-usable?

 

For all who has helped myself along with Trainingdragon, thank you all so much for all the input help and guidance. I was referred to this specific thread by a member who said my problems sounded a lot like Trainingdragon issues..and they were exactly that. I LEFT A RAG in the intake..BLOCKING the poor driver side bank from being able to breath/function properly. GEEZ how annoying and careless. I really can't believe I actually let this happen. Like Trainingdragon I was doing preventative maintenance and changing out the coolant pipes and must have also left a rag inside..working in a half lit garage without a ton of space along with long hours and no days off at my actual job for overtime I was also tired when doing this project.
It really is a fairly straight forward process and relatively "fun" or at least satisfying to complete (if you don't leave a rag in the manifold). Very doable for all wondering if they should attempt it. Take your time, don't rush and absolutely do your best to pay attention. I've been thinking it over a million times how I let this happen and just can't come up with a good explanation. Trainingdragon and I caused ourselves lots of headache and heartache but thanks all for the input and thank you Trainingdragon for allowing me to join your thread. I can't believe we both did the same thing and am very glad I was referred to this specific thread. I still have to contend with the injector issue which I rushed to this incorrect conclusion of might as well do these as it can't hurt..anyways thank you all and I should be back on the road soon🤞
Kevin

 

Ksducati, I can truly say I feel your pain and this experience has certainly humbled me. Sadly I don't feel quite so alone on this now. I'm glad for you and for me it was nothing major. Now I have this new issue that I haven't had time to look at where I'm leaking a lot of coolant under the supercharger. Could be the oil cooler, gasket, or the small pipe and seals between the oil cooler and water pump. All of that is brand new Jaguar parts including the gaskets and grommet style o-rings. I hope to get started on it this weekend but with no real visual access it's going to be tough to determine what the issue is other than remove everything, replace seals/gaskets and try again???

Just curious if anyone has any generic thoughts on what might have leaked? And if there is some NASA technique to installing the coolant connector pipe along with those o-rings?

 

lol damn.

guess we need to add a checklist of our equipment before sealing her up!

"# 10 socket?" Check.
"shim tool?" Check.
"10 rags?" ****!

 

yes maybe. What did you use a shim tool for?

 

i didn't, had my tech do this job. was just a joke

was not a cheap job but i don't have much patience and peace of mind and all that.

 

oh gotcha. The way things have gone for me on this job I started oh crap, maybe that's what I did wrong with the coolant issue LOL. Yes I can understand about the patience thing. You do need a lot of patience for this work. it's not really that bad, but there's apparently plenty that can go wrong.

 

I have been looking through the forums before making my purchase. Being that your vehicle has 92,000 miles , would you say it’s wise to buy one with 100,000 miles, car fax seems clean and shows most work being done at JLR.

 

So I got it all apart yesterday and really can't find a smoking gun. Could honestly be anything. So I'm not sure what I really need to replace at this point other than everything???? Here's some pictures.

 

I noticed some coolant actually on the sides of the oil cooler so I'm wondering if it's possible the body of the oil cooler is faulty? Seems highly unlikely but possible I suppose? It's a brand new oil cooler.

 

If you have service records then there should be no real reason not to pull the trigger. Be prepared to spend on some preventative maintenance.

 

Well if it was a bad product odds are it would fail sooner rather then later..food for thought.

 

Evoex, that's what I was thinking. I just called where I bought it and they will consider replacing it after I fill out some info for them. So I might get a replacement of the oil cooler. My plan is to replace it, the gasket below it and the o-rings for the coolant adapter pipe to the water pump. I also think I will use gasket sealer around the ports for the oil cooler. It's quite possible that metal gasket isn't holding a good seal, which is odd since that's the design and didn't have any issues from the factory, however I've seen multiple videos of mechanics recommending sealer. I can see why. There's not a lot of torque for the oil cooler bolts and you have oil and coolant trying to be sealed by that metal gasket. Seems like a likely failure point??? Also, the way the coolant adapter pipe fits behind the water pump that seems like a likely failure point as well since there doesn't seem to be much pressure for that rubber seal and its an odd fit. To me, too many failure points in the design but maybe I'm just not the best judge. Seems like so many people did this job with no issues???

 

Did you replace the plastic pipe from the back of the water pump to the oil cooler with the aluminium version?

 

I actually did but noticed that for some reason it was a really loose fit so I ended up installed a brand new plastic one which seemed like a tighter fit. I couldn't figure out why it was a bit loose as it looked exactly the same as the plastic one.

 

Just a quick question on the subject, I recently got a 2016, manual, which had its coolant pipes changed by a reputed shop. Seller said, its been more than a year and no leaks, however, the coolant reservoir is a tad under MIN level. I don't know if it was at MAX when it was worked on. My question is can I top up with distilled water? Thank you!