2017 R P2404 code/exhaust tone
All,
I recently pick my car up from the body shop after 23k of damage from a deer running into the driver side bumper/headlight. From there the car was towed to a PPF shop to have a full body xpel application.
Once the car was home, I took the car part to check all the shop work. Car drove strong but I did notice the exhaust did not sound the same at mid-range. In sport or at high throttle it sounds normal. Today when driving home the check engine light illuminated. The code is P2404. I understand from this forum that the cause could be vapor canister/purge valve.
My question would that make the exhaust sound off? I also checked the valves on the velocity exhaust, and they move with gentle force but what amount of force is normal? Has anyone ever lubricated the valves and what should be used to accomplish the job? I am leaning towards the valves or valve sticking due to the car sitting for 3 months or a small vacuum leak.
I will by the vapor canister to get rid of the check engine light, but I do not believe that it is the cause for the car sound being less aggressive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Philip
I recently pick my car up from the body shop after 23k of damage from a deer running into the driver side bumper/headlight. From there the car was towed to a PPF shop to have a full body xpel application.
Once the car was home, I took the car part to check all the shop work. Car drove strong but I did notice the exhaust did not sound the same at mid-range. In sport or at high throttle it sounds normal. Today when driving home the check engine light illuminated. The code is P2404. I understand from this forum that the cause could be vapor canister/purge valve.
My question would that make the exhaust sound off? I also checked the valves on the velocity exhaust, and they move with gentle force but what amount of force is normal? Has anyone ever lubricated the valves and what should be used to accomplish the job? I am leaning towards the valves or valve sticking due to the car sitting for 3 months or a small vacuum leak.
I will by the vapor canister to get rid of the check engine light, but I do not believe that it is the cause for the car sound being less aggressive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Philip
Last edited by pab74; Sep 26, 2022 at 05:30 PM.
With the OEM exhaust, engine vacuum (or an electric vacuum pump on early cars like mine) is used to close the valves, they're normally open. So a vacuum leak would make them not close completely (or at all). I'm assuming the VAP exhausts work the same way.
I've not seen a way to lubricate the valves on early OEM exhausts like mine, but folks have talked about it, so presumably there's a way. Replacing the exhaust is the dealer solution, as the valves can't be replaced. But a number of folks here have VAP exhausts, so hopefully they can comment.
I've not seen a way to lubricate the valves on early OEM exhausts like mine, but folks have talked about it, so presumably there's a way. Replacing the exhaust is the dealer solution, as the valves can't be replaced. But a number of folks here have VAP exhausts, so hopefully they can comment.
DJS,
Thanks for the info. Do you think a sticking valve would throw the code? The valves from observation are very similiar to OEM although i have read that they are of better quality.
Philip
Thanks for the info. Do you think a sticking valve would throw the code? The valves from observation are very similiar to OEM although i have read that they are of better quality.
Philip
No, no chance they’d throw a code. Here’s how active exhaust worked originally, with the electric vacuum pump. Yours uses engine vacuum, I think. (My vacuum pump sounds like a buzzing heat shield.)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szc3vze5ol...haust.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szc3vze5ol...haust.pdf?dl=0
Joe778,
Apologize for the late response. The vapor canister sits on top of the fuel tank. Access is gained from removing the seats, interior trim behind the seats, rear audio components, and a backing plate.
In other words, a straight disaster of a job
I had to work last weekend so did not get a chance to work on the car. All parts are in so after this weekend I will be able to post an update. I did not order the evap canister however I have all new vacuum lines, purge valve and will be removing the vacuum pump and routing a vacuum line in accordance with the TSB
More to follow
Philip
Apologize for the late response. The vapor canister sits on top of the fuel tank. Access is gained from removing the seats, interior trim behind the seats, rear audio components, and a backing plate.
In other words, a straight disaster of a job
I had to work last weekend so did not get a chance to work on the car. All parts are in so after this weekend I will be able to post an update. I did not order the evap canister however I have all new vacuum lines, purge valve and will be removing the vacuum pump and routing a vacuum line in accordance with the TSB
More to follow
Philip
Thanks Philip! That level of work would explain why the estimate from the dealership was so high. I'm still planning on replacing it myself. Very interested in how it goes for you. Also, here's a video you may be interested in on freeing up seized valves on a V6 F Type. May not be exactly what you're looking for; but though I'd share.
Joe
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