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Why would you be faster replacing a coolant pipe? The purpose of replacing the plastic sandwich pipe with aluminium is to mitigate the pipe cracking and causing coolant loss/potential damage to the engine.
The JLR TOPIx Workshop Manual states s/c removal to replace the lower pipe - step #7. I'm curious how your mechanic replaced the lower coolant outlet pipe (aka the "Y" pipe) without the removal of the s/c.
Why would you be faster replacing a coolant pipe? The purpose of replacing the plastic sandwich pipe with aluminium is to mitigate the pipe cracking and causing coolant loss/potential damage to the engine.
The JLR TOPIx Workshop Manual states s/c removal to replace the lower pipe - step #7. I'm curious how your mechanic replaced the lower coolant outlet pipe (aka the "Y" pipe) without the removal of the s/c.
Exact same question I asked, I can't see how it is possible without removing the SC.
Why would you be faster replacing a coolant pipe? The purpose of replacing the plastic sandwich pipe with aluminium is to mitigate the pipe cracking and causing coolant loss/potential damage to the engine.
Hilarious, it’s called taking the ****. Slap yourself 5 times
Hilarious, it’s called taking the ****. Slap yourself 5 times
With all the other stuff people post on these groups, how do you decided what is tongue in cheek or not? Sticking a smilie at the end of the sentence helps with context. ;-)
There will be people out there that assume polishing the pipes improves with heat dissipation - it does not. Bumpy metal has a greater surface area. People often replace parts and expect the car to perform better.
Audi I never saw your question answered?
The small transfer tube that you posted now available in Aluminum. Goes from the back of the water pump to the oil cooler brick. So yes the water pump must be removed to install this tube. Usually your in there doing both big pipes as well as the water pump so everything is already dis-assembled.
You can see the tube in the above pictures too?
I have labeled it in the picture below.
@GeorgeIII I am not suggesting he did not figure out a way to do this. Perhaps he removed the water pump (which can be done without removing the supercharger, and somehow gained access to the two torx bolts that hold the lower Y-pipe in. As referenced above. And then was able to some how remove it at some weird angle.
But as someone who has done this work myself, I cannot see how it would be possible to access the Y-pipe torx bolts that sits directly next to the oil cooler without removing the super charger. Unless he is saying, he didn't remove it from the car and just lifted the front of it up enough to get to the Y-Pipe. That is semantics as he still has to partially remove it (or lift it up) to get to the pipe.
In addition, in an effort to reseat the Y-pipe and properly torque to the 10nm requirements, no way to get a torque wrench in there. But perhaps he didn't torque them down. I cannot tell from your picture, but are you positive the lower Y- Pipe was removed? Also his time stamp of 1 hour of labor, that too send a red flag to me. But I would love to be pleasantly surprised and be wrong in this situation......
@GeorgeIII I am not suggesting he did not figure out a way to do this. Perhaps he removed the water pump (which can be done without removing the supercharger, and somehow gained access to the two torx bolts that hold the lower Y-pipe in. As referenced above. And then was able to some how remove it at some weird angle.
But as someone who has done this work myself, I cannot see how it would be possible to access the Y-pipe torx bolts that sits directly next to the oil cooler without removing the super charger. Unless he is saying, he didn't remove it from the car and just lifted the front of it up enough to get to the Y-Pipe. That is semantics as he still has to partially remove it (or lift it up) to get to the pipe.
In addition, in an effort to reseat the Y-pipe and properly torque to the 10nm requirements, no way to get a torque wrench in there. But perhaps he didn't torque them down. I cannot tell from your picture, but are you positive the lower Y- Pipe was removed? Also his time stamp of 1 hour of labor, that too send a red flag to me. But I would love to be pleasantly surprised and be wrong in this situation......
My money is on the mechanic having replaced only the upper cross-over pipe (the one plainly visible top/front of the engine) and the heater/manifold pipe at the rear of the engine, I reckon these could be done in an hour by an experienced mechanic.
My money is on the mechanic having replaced only the upper cross-over pipe (the one plainly visible top/front of the engine) and the heater/manifold pipe at the rear of the engine, I reckon these could be done in an hour by an experienced mechanic.
I could see that, BUT the only way to get the pipes is as a kit, so if true, that is some shady stuff. I have seen where people "lift" the SC up to be able to pull the snout off, without technically removing it from the car, but its all the same work, so maybe that is what he is saying. I am still very curious. Regardless, 1 hour, not likely.
Just a note to inform that I am still here and kicking. I was unable to meet with my mechanic the past two days but am planning on doing so this weekend after which I will try to give you a blow by blow account of how the procedure was carried out.
To MaxD. When I said I was not faster due to the replacement of the pipes I thought that was a rather obvious facetious statement. I thought it might make one smile. In other words, not to be taken literally. I only look stupid.....
Yep, in a couple of those pics he is holding the infamous lower cross-over pipe or Y-pipe, can you ask him how he managed to get it out and fit a new one without removing the SC?
Edit - in a few of those pics I'm seeing the SC coolant jackets off the car!
As promised, here I am with a short video made by my mechanic today. I hope this goes a long way in explaining how he went about doing this and as some have speculated, the water pump comes off. The two problem bolts on the bottom are German torqued, as he likes to say, and he has never had a problem. He also stated that on some stock plastic pipes he just cuts the plastic part in two making it easier to get off. On the time taken to do the job he said mine took him about 1 hour twenty-minutes.
As promised, here I am with a short video made by my mechanic today. I hope this goes a long way in explaining how he went about doing this and as some have speculated, the water pump comes off. The two problem bolts on the bottom are German torqued, as he likes to say, and he has never had a problem. He also stated that on some stock plastic pipes he just cuts the plastic part in two making it easier to get off. On the time taken to do the job he said mine took him about 1 hour twenty-minutes.
Makes sense George, going in through the gap created once the coolant pump is removed. Must still be very difficult though, I have trouble visualising how he has enough room to get the new Y-pipe in place and properly seated.
Also, can you explain the SC coolant / heat exchanger (ie the top of the SC that you see from the engine bay) in your earlier pics? Is that from your car, in which case why did he take it off, or is it from someone else's car?
Hi,
this is really Magic in my view! The hole due to the missing water pump is not really the biggest. When making out you can cut the old Y pipe, but the new must also completely back in. How to then still connect the pipe to the top? Already brutal that this really goes. Congratulations, what a mechanic, all respect. I would never have believed it, but it is actually so. Thank you for this helpful information.
