Given that removal of 2 bolts is the reason for the supercharger removal, I wonder if the advent of cheap orthroscopic cameras can help here? A camera image + appropriate tool may make this job a possibility? I’m thinking of a socket plus several extensions and universal joints. If anyone figures this out, please let us know the magic recipe.

 

I’ll report back once I’ve had another go at it. From memory there’s not enough clearance in there to get any sort of tool, to remove the two screws. Then there’s the issue of the length of the screws plus whatever bits are being used to remove them.

 

We are making a mountain out of this mole-hill. You do not need any cameras to see the bolts. You will see the bolts that need to be removed with a naked eye. Water pump and throttle body come off and the rest are simple mechanic steps.

 

Back to the extended warranty issue: Be sure to read the warranty closley. I purchased an aftermarket warranty. Paid top dollar for it too. Was told that everything but tires, wipers, brake pads, etc were covered. Old plastic pipes went bad and leaked. Warranty company refused to pay. They stated only mechanical and electrical items were covered in the contract. Since the pipes were neither, no coverage. Turned them into the State Attorny General. LOST. Turned the warranty back in and received about half my money back Enough to pay for the repair. I'll take the rest of the chances myself.

 

Pipes, hoses, gaskets, seals, etc. are almost never covered in any aftermarket warranty. They’re considered consumable maintenance items. if you think about it, it makes sense.

 

This is not a warranty, it's an insurance policy.

 

I was expecting a couple of hours to get the blower off so that's good news

It can here too - but usually a strongly-worded letter from me that includes copy/pasted relevant legislation, along with a call from the Department of Fair Trading about a week after the letter was received, is enough to turn 99% of businesses around. I just had a Garmin bike computer die after 2.5 years... I emailed the shop, they said the warranty had expired, I sent back a very polite email with a copy/paste of the relevant legislation (saving the strong words for if they said no), they put a new one in the post the next day. Most retail staff don't know the law, they just know what the manufacturers put on the box.

I'd put in much more energy for a $20k engine than I would for a $50 pair of shoes... at some point it becomes not worth it, but surely a blown engine would be worth a few emails and phone calls.

 

Bought the kit not long after they became available anticipating on day having to replace the original plastic pipes (early production) on our 2017 f type r). The day finally arrived for the swap and it ended with surprising results. The aluminum pipes fit ( installed with Jaguar o rings instead of the ones included with the pipes) and everything seemed to be going ok but then the connector to the overflow tank proved to be a different size than the one machined in the aluminum pipe. No easy, reliable solution came to mind and then the system with additional coolant added a leak began in the still unpressurized joint where the y pipe entered the engine. I told the mechanic to install the later Jaguar production plastic pipes instead which he did and everything worked as it should have. The original seamed pipes did not crumble or shatter when removed, and the car has always lived in the heat of central Florida with the engine cover always on.

 

I suspect that you may have bought the first generation of the metal pipes; there was a second and improved (more precise) version which my JLR dealer installed on my F-Type with no issues at all - and they also used OEM 0-rings instead of those supplied with the pipes.

 

Hi everyone,

Long time lurker, first time posting! I love this forum and I've learned so much from this group. Thank you ALL for your contributions.

I've been following this thread very closely for a few months. I finally pulled the trigger on the Euroamp kit and brought it to a local indy (I've not used this place before). They quoted 14hrs of labor and $3300 total to install the aluminum kit. I asked if they had considered trying to do the job without removing the s/c, but they were insistent it had to be done this way. They are a reputable place, but I'm going to look elsewhere. I think that's too much for this work.

 

I don't think it's possible to replace the pipes without removing the supercharger, and you'll probably want to replace a few other wear items while there too.

 

Several people have done it, and there's even a video of it somewhere on this forum. I looked at the motor and don't see why it couldn't be done without removing the S/C. Yes, some tight spots but looks doable.

 

Cool, can you point me to the video? When I took mine apart, I thought the screws that hold down the lower end of the pipe wouldn't be accessible because the pipe itself sort of gets in the way, but maybe I'm wrong and just removing the throttle body is sufficient to access them. Would love to see how the pros do it.

 

I just tried but the video was too large. Go through this thread, you'll find several.

 

I did, and I did not see any videos showing the screws being removed without removing the supercharger. I've also searched elsewhere on google and found nothing other than a few references that it can be done however no detailed instructions on how to.

In the near future I intend to try this method and post the results here, to confirm for certain whether this's fiction or fact.

 

Here, it's not a video of the job but more a walk-through:

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeIII

Page 12, post 236

 

FWIW, I called around as I need the same work performed and was quoted $2.5k for the supercharger removal method. I will be replacing along with the coolant pipes, tstat, waterpump, update supercharger bushing, and oil cooler gaskets.

 

I am seriously considering hiring a camera techi and paying my mechanic to do a step by step instruction on how to do this procedure without removing the supercharger. My mechanic, at a JLR dealership, has done this, as I have stated many times, well over twenty times. There have been no issues with doing it this way. My car and several of my friends have all had it done this way well over a year ago.

Please take a moment to read Post 420 carefully. But please do not tell me that it cannot be done for it can be done.

 

Digging around a little further, found someone who has done the pipe replacement without removing the complete supercharger, HOWEVER he did have to remove the supercharger snout AND water pump, throttle body and everything else. The snout was completely blocking the screws, with it removed, there was better but still challenging access to the 2 screws. BUT the effort to remove the snout COULD be more challenging than just removing the entire supercharger plus you don't have to remove the water pump IF you remove the supercharger. SO in conclusion, by doing more work and removing more parts, there is a way to do it, the screws are still difficult to remove this way.

As I've said before I can have everything, including the supercharger out of the car in about 30 minutes doing it the JLR way, but I will try the alternative sometime soon.

 

I genuinely wish I had the skill/knowledge to remove the supercharger so quickly / easily. (Not being funny here, a genuine 'hats off' to your abilities). It would save having to hand over £1500 to my garage. It looks complicated and like I could easily damage something trying to do it with hand tools (and no lift).