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Just had mine done and the upper coolant pipe bolt was a little off and had to be enlarged. It appears as the hole was oblong and was just too small to allow the bolt to fit through it. I had the mechanic open it up a little to fit.
I may need to partially retract this recommendation. I read through the entire policy after it was sent over and it says repairs due to "operating the vehicle in an overheated condition" are not covered. This seems like a good way to avoid paying for any coolant related issues. It is my understanding that the overheating warning doesn't come on fast enough to avoid overheating damage, correct? Wouldn't you get a coolant low warning much faster?
I may need to partially retract this recommendation. I read through the entire policy after it was sent over and it says repairs due to "operating the vehicle in an overheated condition" are not covered. This seems like a good way to avoid paying for any coolant related issues. It is my understanding that the overheating warning doesn't come on fast enough to avoid overheating damage, correct? Wouldn't you get a coolant low warning much faster?
Low coolant and overheating don’t necessarily go hand in hand.
As for vehicle repair insurance policies, they’re written very carefully to provide the writer with as many loopholes and conditions to protect them from having pay for claims. If there’s a way to get out of paying, they’ll find it. It’s typically much less costly to take the money you’d for the contract and save it for future repairs.
I may need to partially retract this recommendation. I read through the entire policy after it was sent over and it says repairs due to "operating the vehicle in an overheated condition" are not covered. This seems like a good way to avoid paying for any coolant related issues. It is my understanding that the overheating warning doesn't come on fast enough to avoid overheating damage, correct? Wouldn't you get a coolant low warning much faster?
buy a $40 OBD2 monitor and leave it plugged in all the time. Most allow you to set up a warning signal if coolant temp goes over a certain amount so you can just stuff it below your dash. I have one in both my 5.0 engine JLRs until I do the aluminum cooling pipe job
buy a $40 OBD2 monitor and leave it plugged in all the time. Most allow you to set up a warning signal if coolant temp goes over a certain amount so you can just stuff it below your dash. I have one in both my 5.0 engine JLRs until I do the aluminum cooling pipe job
How does this work better than the built-in temp monitoring and how does it notify you? I'm interested in this alternative.
Last edited by Brian McCann; Mar 21, 2024 at 01:18 PM.
Low coolant and overheating don’t necessarily go hand in hand.
As for vehicle repair insurance policies, they’re written very carefully to provide the writer with as many loopholes and conditions to protect them from having pay for claims. If there’s a way to get out of paying, they’ll find it. It’s typically much less costly to take the money you’d for the contract and save it for future repairs.
How would this not go hand in hand? Without coolant the natural result would be overheating, no?
Your car does not have a temperature gauge even though it is labeled as such?
What Jaguar has done is to "damp" the movement of the needle so it does not move over a wide range of engine temperatures. We have had forum member's plot the actual engine temperature .VS. the needle position.
By the time the needle reacts the engine is well past over heating. What a number of us do (as Silvertonesx24 mentions) is to run Torque Pro (Android App) which does output a true and accurate coolant temperature in real time. This is a must for me!
Also note what Carbuff2 says!! The F-Type is known to drain the battery if a OBDII dongle is left connected all the time.
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Your car does not have a temperature gauge even though it is labeled as such?
What Jaguar has done is to "damp" the movement of the needle so it does not move over a wide range of engine temperatures. We have had forum member's plot the actual engine temperature .VS. the needle position.
By the time the needle reacts the engine is well past over heating. What a number of us do (as Silvertonesx24 mentions) is to run Torque Pro (Android App) which does output a true and accurate coolant temperature in real time. This is a must for me!
Also note what Carbuff2 says!! The F-Type is known to drain the battery if a OBDII dongle is left connected all the time.
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Okay so you plug the OBDII dongle in every time you use the car or what?
Okay but in the context I was talking about the coolant leak would cause overheating, which would potentially not be covered by a warranty. I'm not sure what the relevance of what you're saying is.
Jahummer's comments are most relevant. Overheating can be the result of many things besides a leak. Low coolant, faulty thermostat, faulty fans, broken fan belt, ambient temperature, and the list can go on.
Jahummer's comments are most relevant. Overheating can be the result of many things besides a leak. Low coolant, faulty thermostat, faulty fans, broken fan belt, ambient temperature, and the list can go on.
I think we're talking about two different things. I simply commented that I would be worried about warranty covering leaking coolant pipes because this would result in an "overheating condition". It's obvious that other failure modes could result in overheating but I don't understand how that changes the fact that a warranty would still not cover these damages. That's all I was trying to say.
A significant coolant leak would lead to the engine overheating, but the onboard warnings are quite slow in alerting the driver and damage may have already occurred by that point.
I was saying overheating which in your case would still not be covered by insurance, could happen even without a leak.
Brian current drain is why I use and recommend the ODBLink MX+.
It powers up and down automatically so does not use power when the car is off. I have not found another adapter that does this. It is a bit expensive at $140 but that one can be left in all the time.
Do watch what Carbuff2 mentions as that is unique to the F-Type.
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My Autel X60 works fine and shuts down a few seconds after I shut my engine off. It is plugged in to the OBD connector on my 2012 XF at all times except when I connect my SDD or Foxwell NT510 Elite. I monitor Engine Coolant Temperature, Engine Oil Temperature and Battery Voltage continuously;
I am considering an extended warranty like Car Shield to help cover the potential of coolant pipe failure repair. Anyone else?
Fac'try classed the coolant pipes as "maintenance" items, similar to belts, oil, and filters... so probably no use having a warranty.. regardless of the underwriter.
Were it otherwise, some might fnd a way to insure against fuel level dropping below "FULL".... or old folks going wrinkly.
Just a note?
All my plastic cooling pipes and water pump were replaced free under my factory warranty?
Per CARFAX, the entire 4.2L V8 in my XJ8-L was replaced, outright, not long-block or such, under factory warranty.
Part of why I bought it, used, given the motor had by then but half the mileage on it as the chassis had.
Can't be certain, but destructive overheat off the back of failed plastic cooling pipes is the most logical culprit.
So yah.. guess I benefit from warrantied plastic as well, if only indirectly?
That said, I also modified mine to remove that odd short hose off the thermostat - the one with the several molded-in tight bends in it.
The new one is a simple wide curve of ignorant stock braid-in tubing that runs slightly uphill to the header tank via a ciurved relief cut into the cosmetic upper cover panel.
No more below-header-inlet-level air trap.
In other news.. with machining and casting experience, but NOT "3D printing" nor the CAD/CAM to manage it... .. every time I look at fabbing a metal replacement for the front Wye water-pump outlet manifold on my non-supercharged X350 4.2 OR the L320 5.0 NA?
I come back to it making more sense to WRAP a stock plastic-molded front Wye manifold with resin-saturated Nomex ribbon and cure it - as seam reinforcement - instead.
Even so, the darned TIPS would still deteriorate, as they are wont do, and out of eyeshot as well. Not enough gain to be had with that approach. The TIPS are where metal is needed the most.
Lazy, Iyam, so I just sorted out a way to replace the as-issued ones more easily, rapidly, ergo "often", and carry a spare in the motorcar. They don't eat much.