This is the first time I read something about ordering 2 extra O Rings for the fittment into the waterpump and oil cooler brick 😡.
We changed all the plastic stuff for this Euro-Amp Kit and now it is leaking. I bought 1 new OEM O ring but the fittment of the alloy part seemed somewhat loose on the oil brick.
I hoped all would ‘settle’ but unfortunately it leakes and the SC have to be removed again.
The original plastic engine cooler pipe has a tighter fittment.

so…should I use 2 O rings on both sides or how should it be mounted without leaking?

tnx

 

Order the genuine alloy parts from JLR. Fitment’s perfect and much better quality, and won’t Ever leak.

 

Regarding the aluminum cooling parts from Jaguar Land Rover, would you please be able to provide the necessary part numbers for us who do not know the actual part numbers when ordering from the Jaguar parts department. Thank you kindly

 

Yes they’re in my post above #595

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...258775/page30/

EDIT:

LR186859
LR186917

 

Bravo to you. You've obviously done your research. This should help many of the message board members.
Roberto

 

Got it !
Thank you very much for this information.

 

To be clear, these are for the V8. At some point, I’ll want to dig up the ones for the V6.

 

That's a question I have been asking for months - do these LR part number parts also fit the V6? - and it seems likely they do but I am yet to see a definitive yes or no answer.

 

They fit the V6 and V8 - all JLR models

 

They fit the V6 and V8 - all JLR models

 

So just the rear pipe is different?

 

Seems so.
I presume you are talking about the heater manifold pipe across the back of the heads, where the V6 version has longer "legs" than the V8 version.

 

Correct, the rear/back of the pipe ends up in identical positions relative to the firewall. The V6 is shorter, so the pipe is "longer" to accommodate.

 

Basically. The V6 & V8 blocks are the same length but the V6 heads are 2 cylinders shorter in the rear so the V6 manifold pipe has longer "leg" to reach the heads (and 2 additional mounting holes on each leg to keep it from bending down due to the longer "legs").

The original rear pipe was replaced around 80K miles due to seam seep but not leaking. The replacement lasted over 100K miles and was not leaking but I replaced it with genuine since I had the heads torn down.

I've not bee impressed with the quality of aftermarket parts and how often they don't fit correctly or prematurely fail, even the alloy ones.

 

Would you have the JLR part number for the rear heater manifold pipe? And does anyone have a favorite Jag dealer to order the parts from?

 

I haven't seen an official JLR alloy crossover pipe. Only plastic.

 

I track F Type S sales on BaT and just had an interesting discussion about the aluminum pipes experiencing galvanic corrosion. Here are quotes from that.

"michael211: You don’t want the aluminum coolant pipes. You want the updated factory pipes made without seams. The problem with the original polymer “plastic” pipes wasn’t the material. It was that they were made in sectioned halves and then bonded with seams. These seams is where they will eventually leak. The updated factory replacement is made from the same material but without seams. The aluminum replacements degrade on the ends (galvanic corrosion) because the coolant in these engines acts as a conductive electrolyte. I.e., these pipes were made from polymers in the first place for a reason, not just to save some money."

And this when I asked the poster for his source.

"michael211: My source is a Jaguar Master Tech with 35 years experience. I recently had the job done on my car, and he advised me not to go with the aluminum pipes for the reasons I mentioned. A friend who is a metallurgical engineer verified the science behind my tech’s explanation. My tech also said they’re already seeing corrosion problems with the aluminum pipes. I’ll see if I can get a copy of a JLR Tech Bulletin from him to verify. If I can, I’ll send it to you."

And here is a link to the auction

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/20...convertible-8/

What do we think about this?

 

The thought here is that dissimilar metals cause galvanic corrosion, and that coolant is an electrolyte that can speed up galvanic corrosion - while technically true its not really applicable: in the real world I'd still like to hear what actual issues they are seeing in the field. Without sufficient data its kind of conjecture no? There is a reason JLR had aluminum pipes in early AJ133, went to plastic, revved it twice, then ended back with Aluminum castings in 2024 for top trims.

There is steel componentry within the AJ133 but I believe the mating metals are also aluminum. Instant galvanic corrosion isn't a thing, and the parts are separated by o rings. It's nothing groundbreaking or crazy in terms of engine design.
I designed the Ford F150 EcoBoost through 5.0 NA cooling systems back in the day. I'd prefer to see JLR's high temp test data over 60k miles to determine why they did what they did, but alas that seems difficult to get on a forum.

It's worth nothing the ends of the revised plastic single seam resins are also dissolving, per JaHummer's pic earlier in the thread. One day I'll just submit these parts to a materials lab for confirmation on composition.

 

@Michael211 @dmchao

First of all, the statement JLR solved the crossover pipe failure by removing seams is false, there's tons of empirical data which proves even the new revised updated redesigned plastic genuine pipes fail by disintegrating due to heat. I have personal experience with this, I've even seen older seamed pipes NOT leak from the seams but fail at their bases just as the latest new versions do. Another example regarding seams, the rear plastic seamed crossover on mine did 100K miles and was NOT leaking when I removed it.

The statement about galvanic corrosion's also false as the points where the pipes join are both aluminum alloy. Additionally if the correct engine coolant's used (DexCool) it's actually engineered to prevent corrosion.