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@CarlB please let us know how to car behaves without the insulation (I guess noise levels....).
Am I correct, that only one side of the foam has been torn? If so, can you see difference between both banks regarding rust?
I haven't had the insulation for a few years. As I said above it's for noise only.
I'm not the only one that has lost valve cover bolts to this terrible design.
The cold V holds water with the hood vents and foam under the SC and between the SC and charge coolers. The intake port gasket isn't going to love that and I can't imagine I'm the first. The most likely scenario is most owners haven't dug into it.
I don't disagree but I've seen quite a few of these without corrosion. I've submerged mine numerous times for washing and it looks brand new. That corrosion on yours looks like salt creep or highly acidic water. You'll need to thoroughly remove that corrosion and make certain the mating surfaces are true.
@CarlB please let us know how to car behaves without the insulation (I guess noise levels....).
Am I correct, that only one side of the foam has been torn? If so, can you see difference between both banks regarding rust?
Both sides were FUBAR. Even if they weren't I would remove them.
Regarding NVH. It didn't make any sense to me at first why fomoco/jlr would be putting sound insulation there, when the engine cover is what would be suppressing the bulk of noise. It also didn't make sense why specifically they seemed to be targeting the valvetrain. It sorta clicked though, my theory is that this is to prevent the valvetrain and other engine noises from resonating inside the supercharger. This is because the supercharger is directly piped into the symposer system. Any unwanted notes would be sent to the cabin via that symposer tube.
Luckily my symposer was already blocked off, but I'll be entirely deleting it while the SC is removed. Last year it was a week 1 ownership mod for us to block it.
Both sides were FUBAR. Even if they weren't I would remove them.
Regarding NVH. It didn't make any sense to me at first why fomoco/jlr would be putting sound insulation there, when the engine cover is what would be suppressing the bulk of noise. It also didn't make sense why specifically they seemed to be targeting the valvetrain. It sorta clicked though, my theory is that this is to prevent the valvetrain and other engine noises from resonating inside the supercharger. This is because the supercharger is directly piped into the symposer system. Any unwanted notes would be sent to the cabin via that symposer tube.
Luckily my symposer was already blocked off, but I'll be entirely deleting it while the SC is removed. Last year it was a week 1 ownership mod for us to block it.
Nice theory, I did delete that crap too. I also run the car without the engine cover. I like engine noise, if nice
Can you hear any difference comparing having the insulation?
Not really, but it's additive. Eliminate each part of the noise mitigation such as engine cover, coil covers, bonnet insulation etc and you will slowly hear more engine noise, purge, valves, injectors and supercharger whine, etc.
The rear coolant crossover pipe on our 2016 with 46k miles appears to have been seeping. I would smell some faint coolant notes when stopping in our garage.
It looks similar to the original clam-shell design of the old-style plastic front pipes. Basically two parts glued together? Which aluminum rear pipe will you choose to replace the leaking plastic one @CarlB?
@CarlB and @jahummer Which kit do you recommend with the necessary parts, or just order individually? There are a lot of choices on eBay. Getting the right size washers seems to be critical for a successful swap-out.
It looks similar to the original clam-shell design of the old-style plastic front pipes. Basically two parts glued together? Which aluminum rear pipe will you choose to replace the leaking plastic one @CarlB?
@CarlB and @jahummer Which kit do you recommend with the necessary parts, or just order individually? There are a lot of choices on eBay. Getting the right size washers seems to be critical for a successful swap-out.
I bought the OEM JLR parts for the y pipe. Euro-Amp kit for the rear, thermostat housing and miscellaneous other parts as well.
@JagCode3 All genuine parts for mine. I had aftermarket alloys fitted 2 years ago but they weren’t the best fit and had to be modified. They were working fine, just switched to the JLR ones when I found them available. The rear crossover on mine had done 100k miles and wasn’t leaking but I replaced it for peace of mind.
@JagCode3 wanted to hear a bit from my side on the effectiveness of Oil Catch Cans.
I found that the Left Hand Side (PCV) circuit with Oil Catch Can did not collect any oil/gas/moisture.
While the Right Hand Side circuit with Oil Catch Can did regularly capture oil/gas/moisture.
This was on a 2017 V6.
@CarlB I had very similar rust/corrosion on my intake runners... I just did my Y-pipe + S/C coupler and also ripped out the noise suppression pads and covers... resulting in some additional engine noise which is not bad.
I did publish a video a while back on the CatchCan. I also inspected my intake valves and they were in pretty good shape, so i think my RHS catch can is working for me.
I just did the y pipe replacement on my 2014 US XKR and used the RKX Tech kit. I can confirm that by removing the throttle body, water pump and idler a few hoses I was able to replace without removing the SC. To get the old pipe out I had to cut the RHS foot off the pipe. Al pipe went in with a little jiggling but I was unable to remove it. Bolts were placed in their holes using a magnet then lightly snugged using various 1/4” extensions and universal joints, flexible drivers and a T27 until final torquing when I switched to the T30. The T27 allowed the tool to be slightly off center and cocked while still turning the bolt. I spent a lot of time kneeing on my engine and peering down dark holes with one eye. About 8 hours. Next time do it in 2. Dealer quoted me $8,000!!!!!!
however, I cannot for the life of me figure out the order of assembly of the new brass nipple, o ring, and plastic retainer clip that does into the water pump. Can anyone enlighten me?
I just did the y pipe replacement on my 2014 US XKR and used the RKX Tech kit. I can confirm that by removing the throttle body, water pump and idler a few hoses I was able to replace without removing the SC. To get the old pipe out I had to cut the RHS foot off the pipe. Al pipe went in with a little jiggling but I was unable to remove it. Bolts were placed in their holes using a magnet then lightly snugged using various 1/4” extensions and universal joints, flexible drivers and a T27 until final torquing when I switched to the T30. The T27 allowed the tool to be slightly off center and cocked while still turning the bolt. I spent a lot of time kneeing on my engine and peering down dark holes with one eye. About 8 hours. Next time do it in 2. Dealer quoted me $8,000!!!!!!
however, I cannot for the life of me figure out the order of assembly of the new brass nipple, o ring, and plastic retainer clip that does into the water pump. Can anyone enlighten me?
Those parts come with new water pump and new hose. There are aftermarket parts available but they don’t fit well.
Congrats on figuring out how to R&R the lower y pipe but as you found it took hours longer and way more effort than just removing the supercharger plus you had to remove the water pump, serpentine belt, fan pulley, etc.
Also note for anyone else, the genuine JLR alloy pipe’s much larger than the aftermarket pipe and can NOT be done this way….I tried.
Borrowed the idea from @HermanWiegman for blocking the firewall sound port. Unfortunately a Laphroiag cork was too small.
Originally Posted by flightlead404
I just did the y pipe replacement on my 2014 US XKR and used the RKX Tech kit. I can confirm that by removing the throttle body, water pump and idler a few hoses I was able to replace without removing the SC. To get the old pipe out I had to cut the RHS foot off the pipe. Al pipe went in with a little jiggling but I was unable to remove it. Bolts were placed in their holes using a magnet then lightly snugged using various 1/4” extensions and universal joints, flexible drivers and a T27 until final torquing when I switched to the T30. The T27 allowed the tool to be slightly off center and cocked while still turning the bolt. I spent a lot of time kneeing on my engine and peering down dark holes with one eye. About 8 hours. Next time do it in 2. Dealer quoted me $8,000!!!!!!
however, I cannot for the life of me figure out the order of assembly of the new brass nipple, o ring, and plastic retainer clip that does into the water pump. Can anyone enlighten me?
Part 3 of the Onca Engineering YouTube video covers that nipple/plastic installation process.
Hi, I just installed the alloy Euro amp set and deleted the bad insulation and symposer on my 14FV6S.
Also had some rusty bolts on the cover exchanged.
After the installation I have the Engine Control Warning light on and can not reset this by disconnecting the battery 😔.
The car runs fine although I had to top the cooling level 2x…(the small pipe between oil cooler/waterpump had a bit of a loose fitting to my taste and hope it is not leaking 🫣.
my questions:
Is the engine warning light normal and should I have it (OBD) resetted?
Is it normal that I need to top the cw a few times?
I just saw this today and everyone of us Jag guys should be jumping for joy!!
The aftermarket has finally redone the terrible plastic cooling tubes at the front of the engine. They look great and at $250 for both. I think a pretty fair price too. Al. Cooling Pipes
Says for 2013 and up only? Not sure why the earlier 5.0L's are not included?
These are new and untried so caution is urged!
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I just saw this today and everyone of us Jag guys should be jumping for joy!!
The aftermarket has finally redone the terrible plastic cooling tubes at the front of the engine. They look great and at $250 for both. I think a pretty fair price too. Al. Cooling Pipes
Says for 2013 and up only? Not sure why the earlier 5.0L's are not included?
These are new and untried so caution is urged!
.
.
.
These have been out for some time now-
-front flange crossover for S/C
-oil cooler pipe- make sure to use 2 o-orings fitting into WP and 1 on Oil Cooler Block.
-Also Rear crossover heater pipe is. Is offered in Allowy with sensor.
-Purchase the GEBA made in Germany with an Alloy impeller as this will not be subject to failure from astringent coolants and chemicals.
- there is also a New Alloy elbow that is fitted between the thermostat pipe
you can also find these for the AJ133 5.0 engine
order 2 additional o-rings 2 for the fittment into the WP and 1 for the oil cooler brick
