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How do you pressure test the system without the supercharger in place considering that coolant lines run into the supercharger?
Very valid concern, since I wouldn't even attempt to pressurize it until assembled.
I'm not familiar with the technique being mentioned, but you could try capping other lines. Alternatively you could assemble the Y on a bench, cap it, then use the pressure tester to determine if the aluminum has any pinhole leaks. I've done the bench test technique on other water pipes when repairing them.
The 3 pipes you’ve listed are plastic as that’s all JLR offer. I’d highly advise replacing with aluminum as discussed in this thread unless you intended to do this full service every 40-50K miles.
My engine was just replaced (2019 F Pace SVR) under warranty I might luckily add. The corresponding updated aluminum pipes/Jaguar PNs on my invoice were AJ814312 (Y Pipe Outlet) and AJ814311 Crossover pipe. Those appear to be superceded PNs but the engineering PNs are different on the casting as everyone here has showed.
@dmchao Your 2019 must have had the newer plastic pipes then? Can you describe what happened to your F-Pace SVR that resulted in the head gasket failure and warped block?
There is another photo-documented failure of the newer plastic pipes with degradation at the O-ring collar (same as the old style) on the UK forum:
Those photos are super unfortunate. To me, with the amount of temp cycling, without knowing more I'd just venture a guess those are cold shots or material issues. Requires x ray and more analysis to diagnose properly.
I had those updated plastic pipes in my 2019, when the motor was replaced, they authorized replacing them with the OEM Aluminum pipes and were fully covered. I opted to pay out of pocket for a replacement of the rear coolant manifold while the engine was out, which made the labor about nothing since it had 40k miles on it.
To be honest, no idea. I bought it used and I venture a guess the previous owner overheated it or someone who took delivery of it did. I drove it for 500 miles, it turned to Winter here in Wisconsin and with the low temps I think more coolant could enter the chamber. My cylinder 6 and 7 were both scuffed and the block flatness was out by a few thousanths of an inch. My coolant temp gauge never moved in my ownership, only a slow consumption of coolant which originally presented itself as a leak in the intercooler pump and hose connnectors. The combustion gas was likely overpressuring the system. It kept on pushing coolant level up when I would crack the overflow cap after a 24 hour cold soak, which in my experience almost always means combustion gas. The dealers kept telling me it was just air in the system, and I bled it myself several times as well as had them use vacuum fillers, so I kept pushing them to do a chemical test which came back positive right away.
Yep! CPO until end of March 2025. It was fortunate timing for me, just got the car back Friday and it's going back tomorrow to fix some broken clips that they missed. I smell a whiff of coolant so I am chasing that down before I let this job order go complete
They've been very helpful, I expected more pushback but other than it being a big job and taking a month to test/validate/order parts/replace. I didn't even have to call in any favors - I used to work with the current Director of SVO.
I think it's safe to say the newer plastic pipes are not the panacea for this issue many had thought.
That's correct. The updated plastic pipes were used on mine in warranty and they only lasted a couple of years. They fail where they connect to alloy block, plastic just can't take the heat.
I'll share some of our experience/progress. The job isn't completed, since I need some VC related parts. That's called foreshadowing.
-Supercharger was very stuck, so I used an engine hoist to put tension on it while hitting with a dead blow. This broke the seal.
-The supercharger sound insulation underneath collects/holds water and that rusts out the valve cover bolt heads. I removed the insulation.
-The valve cover bolt heads are captured, so unfortunately the VC has to be removed to replace them.
-I have no idea how anyone would ever pull that Y-pipe or snout with the SC still installed on the car.
-The #6 intake valves were extremely dirty, along with visible oil pooling at the back of the SC. Looks like that's where the air pushes the oil vapor. Other cylinders were very marginal compared to #6.
@CarlB Thank you for the updates - glad you could still remove the bolts before total disintegration. Can you let us know the part numbers for the VC bolts, etc? How many miles? Are you going to clean the intake valves or just leave them? That is really interesting about number 6 - any theories?
The SC oil volume is a mystery to me - I have never been able to get more than 50 mL out and this is much less than the stated volume (150mL). Even when turned upside down GFP was only able to get 85 mL:
Sorry for all the questions but I am saddling up to do this in the near future.
That foam is a terrible thing - not a problem after driving as the engine is hot and probably dries it out over a few hours - but a parked car with a cold engine in the rain or after a wash basically "bastes" the VC bolts (and injectors) with water.
@CarlB Thank you for the updates - glad you could still remove the bolts before total disintegration. Can you let us know the part numbers for the VC bolts, etc? How many miles? Are you going to clean the intake valves or just leave them? That is really interesting about number 6 - any theories?
The SC oil volume is a mystery to me - I have never been able to get more than 50 mL out and this is much less than the stated volume (150mL). Even when turned upside down GFP was only able to get 85 mL:
Sorry for all the questions but I am saddling up to do this in the near future.
That foam is a terrible thing - not a problem after driving as the engine is hot and probably dries it out over a few hours - but a parked car with a cold engine in the rain or after a wash basically "bastes" the VC bolts (and injectors) with water.
I'll be walnut blasting the valves while the SC is removed.My theory is that it works like most plenums and the rear wall is where heavier/denser things collect. So the oil is collecting back there, it was so thick over the #6 bolt to the head you couldn't see it without wiping out all of the caked on oil. We've owned the car since last year, so I don't know the oil or driving habits of the previous owner. It's possible he was "gentle" and didn't burn off the intake valve oil with hard driving. It's also possible that these engines just end up with deposits no matter the driving behavior or oil selection.
EDIT: Further foam rambling
I wanted to expand on that sound insulation that created the water holding around the valve cover bolts underneath the supercharger. Imagine a synthetic foam, that is completely encapsulated by a vacuum sealed plastic bag. Normally this would be entirely waterproof. Water might get trapped between the plastic bag and the bolt, but it shouldn't be holding a lot of water.
Unfortunately on these specific foam/bag insulation they are very thin outer plastic and tear or get small openings, so now imagine a plastic bag full of foam. Now imagine pouring water into it. It's going to hold and trap some of it, as the bag still seals on the majority of the foam. Imagine you put a dish sponge under your supercharger.
I'll take some photos of the deceased and removed foam insulation later. It's raining and I don't want to walk out to the shop this second.
Thank you very much for the insulation information, never heard of it before. When I get time to change my pipes I will check and remove it too. Maybe we get a bit more engine noise then? That would be a plus for me.
I have to say I am a bit nervous, I really really really don't want to deal with rusted bolts and injectors so hope mine will be better...
Also regarding the bank 6 cylinder - when I was researching valves cleaners here on the forum, I think I red somewhere that around bank 6 there is a PCV outlet or something similar, so that could be it. But take it with a grain of salt, just a hint to investigate further.
Thank you very much for the insulation information, never heard of it before. When I get time to change my pipes I will check and remove it too. Maybe we get a bit more engine noise then? That would be a plus for me.
I have to say I am a bit nervous, I really really really don't want to deal with rusted bolts and injectors so hope mine will be better...
Also regarding the bank 6 cylinder - when I was researching valves cleaners here on the forum, I think I red somewhere that around bank 6 there is a PCV outlet or something similar, so that could be it. But take it with a grain of salt, just a hint to investigate further.
Once this project is over, I'll probably start figuring out a good solution for a catch can.
The SC alignment pins get corroded. Clean them up and use anti-seize on them so the SC won't be stuck if you need to remove it in the future.
All the SC engines that I have removed the blower on have had an insulation pad under the blower of some kind.
Yes I have never got the published fluid volume out of SC's either. It's always less and I have never had any leaks so I guess that just what happens with time and use. It certainly looks and smells terrible after it's used. A fluid change is a good thing to do for sure.
If you want a catch can do some searches as there has been a number of them installed on F-Types.
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Damn that foam - so more like "sous vide" than "basting" the VC bolts and surrounds
Regarding the catch can, the design of the interior of the can to capture vapor makes a difference. But I wonder if we really need it as the low and high pressure oil separators seem to be doing a pretty good job:
I've never seen corrosion on the mating surface of the intakes, looks like it creeped past the gaskets. Common for the foam to deteriorate and it's sole purpose is for noise, but I've never seen it cause any rust even after hundreds of thousands of miles and frequent engine washes. Could be mistaken but leads me to think this may have been sitting in water frequently and for some time. Perhaps the supercharger was removed and the crush gaskets not replaced as required?
I've never seen corrosion on the mating surface of the intakes, looks like it creeped past the gaskets. Common for the foam to deteriorate and it's sole purpose is for noise, but I've never seen it cause any rust even after hundreds of thousands of miles and frequent engine washes. Could be mistaken but leads me to think this may have been sitting in water frequently and for some time. Perhaps the supercharger was removed and the crush gaskets not replaced as required?
I'm not the only one that has lost valve cover bolts to this terrible design.
The cold V holds water with the hood vents and foam under the SC and between the SC and charge coolers. The intake port gasket isn't going to love that and I can't imagine I'm the first. The most likely scenario is most owners haven't dug into it.
@CarlB please let us know how to car behaves without the insulation (I guess noise levels....).
Am I correct, that only one side of the foam has been torn? If so, can you see difference between both banks regarding rust?
