The bit itself's 6 inches, the extension's another 7. IF you know of something 15 inches or longer, point me in that direction, it might help. Haven't found anything longer other than a long reach TORX screwdriver. But the problem still is the bit either hits the cylinder heads, the supercharger snout, get's stuck in the tight gaps, can't really get a long straight bit in at a 45 degree angle with everything in the way.

 

Well, my mechanic uses Snap-On . You know, the one that mechanics blame when they charge you $150 an hour. So, if you try them just remember to take along a lot of money.

Harbor Freight might have longer ones or perhaps you know a mechanic that can loan you one.

On a side note and not meaning to get personal, do you take your engine apart and put it back together just for grins or do you just like punishment?

 

I do use Snap-On occasionally and my neighbor has a Cornwell Tools truck and I have a lot of mechanic friends, so I'll ask around to see what I can find. I've tried Amazon, which should have EVERYTHING and they didn't have anything longer than 150mm (6-inches same as mine). Milwaukee very common around here, and they didn't have anything longer than 6-inches either. Tried a long reach screwdriver but it either can't fit or the handle gets in the way. I don't have a bit longer because until now I've never had need for one.

As I've mentioned, I've worked on all of my vehicles for years and so it's quite easy for me to take things apart and put them back together and quickly. Especially helps to have the right tools as well as I've learned over the years.

 

Here is a set that is 12" long? Screw driver handles so might not work? Cheap enough to try?
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@GeorgeIII Went to visit my friend at the main dealer. He uses Matco and Snap-On. Longest he has is 6-inches. Double checked mine and it's actually 8-inches not including a 6-inch extension. He said good luck finding anything longer. Checked with Snap-On and they don't have anything longer than 6-inches.

 

I would buy those cheap 12" long Torx screw drivers I posted above and then cut off the screw driver handle off and weld a cheap HF 1/4" adapter on it? Heck you could just grind the end of the steel rod square and put a vice-grip on it?
The set of 6 is only $22.
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Jahummer,

I am afraid I can't help you right now but will contact my mechanic in a few days and ask specifically what tool and brand he used.

 

I've thought about doing just that!

 

Here ya go buddy

 

Many thanks. Looks like a Gearwrench screwdriver? How long is it?

 

The torx piece still looks to be 6” (if the tape is at the end) that is then attached to an adapter. Your issue is still with the adapter hitting if I understood your problem

 

How are yall having trouble? It is very easy with that setup.

 

Bit the bullet today
After reading all of the forums and consulting with the service manager of my Greenville jaguar dealership, I bit the bullet and paid $3000 for new Jaguar coolant pipes and a new water pump to be replaced before failure at 35,000 miles. Their experience that the seam welded plastic pipes would fail by about 75,000 miles if not sooner convinced me. Mine showed some crusting from early seepage. New pipes do not have molding seams.

 

I did what Jaguar recommends today. Bit the bullet today
After reading all of the forums and consulting with the service manager of my Greenville jaguar dealership, I bit the bullet and paid $3000 for new Jaguar coolant pipes and a new water pump to be replaced before failure at 35,000 miles. Their experience that the seam welded plastic pipes would fail by about 75,000 miles if not sooner convinced me. Mine showed some crusting from early seepage. New pipes do not have molding seams.

 

Wow.... three thousand?

Rather outrageous I would say.....

 

I really hope so!

Personally I'm having a tough time (so far) getting anyone to give me a quote for this job.
Messaged about 5 or 6 local shops that specialize in either Jags, JLRs, or Euros in general.
Haven't tried contacting a dealer yet since I'm expecting them to be the most expen$ive of all (and also some less-than-stellar past experiences).
It's been almost a week and the only reply I've gotten was from a place that purports to specialize in Land/Range Rovers.
Sadly they told me that they "can't work on Jags because of software differences" (I told them exactly what I wanted them to do). I would've preferred that they just tell me they didn't want to do it.

By the way, has anyone fitted this particular kit from EuroAMP? Looks pretty good on the surface.
JAGUAR LAND ROVER COOLING SYSTEM UPGRADE KIT V3 3.0L V6 SUPERCHARGED ENGINE

 

Not really for dealer rates.

 

Yes, very really.... I paid $330 at dealership to replace with metal pipes.... which I provided which cost me $99.00 at the time.

Water pump at Euro is around $60 and the water pump comes off when you replace the plastic coolant pipes so should be no up charge there.

So, in my book $3000.00 to replace plastic pipes with some other plastic pipes is in fact absolutely outrageous and even after that you still have plastic parts.

 

Luc that is a very complete kit! I have used Euro-Amp several times too and have been satisfied.
The only red flag is the solid SC coupler?
We have a thread by GaiaXF-V8S on using the Eaton brand solid coupler and why theirs is the best. Maybe take a look at that thread? I changed my mind I now have the Eaton part waiting to be installed.
Eaton Solid Coupler

I am usually not much for video's but do watch the one Eaton released in the above thread as it shows exactly what the problem is and totally convinced me to get one. Amazing amount of counterfeit parts out there too!

Note the V6 and V8 engines use different couplers. Both are listed in the above thread.
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Though you do realise most failures of these plastic pipes occur where they attach on the engine, not at the seams. Happened to me 3 times which's why I switched back to aluminum as JLR had originally designed.