New users can’t PM until they have 5 or perhaps 10 posts.

 

Can he explain why the super charger's removed as it is clearly in your pic? Why would he change the pipes under the supercharger first and then remove the supercharger?

This isn't the first time I've heard the pipes can be done this way, but those who've claimed to have done so have never been able to provide pics or instructions. Having removed the supercharger twice now myself, I'm experienced and skeptical this method's possible. I tried getting to the 2 screws and could not get to them. There's great pics above of the supercharger off showing the lower pipe and screws and their locations. Even with the water pump out of the way it would be nearly impossible to get them out and probably even more difficult to replace them, let alone inserting the aluminum pipes. I can confirm however the supercharger and all related bits can be removed in less than an hour, but putting it all back together takes quite a bit longer.

 

After just 2 weeks, now the "Y"'s leaking at the base, I reckon the other 2 O rings have failed as expected #&@!*&%#$
The pipes were flush to the block so it's surprising how much coolant can seep out.

I'll have another attempt at removing it with the supercharger in place but I doubt I'll be any more successful this time either.

 

Confirming leak-free o-rings at the base is my biggest concern with this project and the aluminum pipes. My car has the 2nd-gen Jag plastic pipes, and for now, I'll stick with that. If it isn't broke and all.

And am I the only one that cringes at pics with the intakes open and not stuffed with rags? I'd be petrified I'd drop something into the engine in this condition...

 

@jahummer sorry to hear of your woes. Thank you for the warning though. I was about to get my garage to install the after-market Al pipes, and now will search for Viton o-rings before it is done. Having trouble finding the right sizes so I'm going to order the Jaguar OEM plastic pipes to compare them with, to get the right kind of o-ring tolerance with the female holes in the top of the block. I noticed on the pipes I was supplied (RKX) that the o-rings felt quite soft and were stretched some 20% to fit in their grooves on the pipes. I've read in various places that o-rings should not be stretched beyond 5% or it weakens the o-ring.

 

I think they remove just the front SC snout before attempting to change the front cooling pipes?
.
.
.

 

+1!!!! I was going to change my pipes proactively to the aluminum pipes but now not only am I going to wait but when the leaking starts I'll go with updated JLR plastic pipes. Also can anyone verify this statement by clubairth1 "I think they remove just the front SC snout before attempting to change the front cooling pipes?"?

 

Main dealer replaced pipes in warranty with the new updated design but they failed after just over 2 years. Literally disintegrated to dust.

 

This video shows the new style pipes with the bases of the Y-pipe starting to disintegrate.

 

I've watched that video a couple of times. In my opinion, the plastic pipes he pulled don't look bad at all. The damage he shows (below) is not really evidence of "disintegration". It looks like mechanical damage to me, from someone pulling apart that joint and breaking it in the process. The clean edge here is evidence of this type of failure. Had the plastic embrittled and disintegrated, it would not hold that clean of an edge. And note, that's not the base of the Y-pipe. The Y-pipe base looks ok in his video; this damage is to the upper pipe, where it connects to the lower.

The rest of the pipe ends look pretty good, actually. Other than this video, there's not a lot of reports of the new-style pipes failing. Many, many cars have one-piece cast plastic pipes as part of their cooling systems, including some Toyota engines I'm still running that are 35+ years old and several hundred thousand miles. Properly cast plastic is just fine in this application.

Just my opinion.

 

@diablo2112 that's a good point. And my use of the word 'disintegrate' was on reflection not a good choice. My concern about the plastic pipes is that I've heard forum members say the new style pipes (without the weak weld seams) have also failed in their cars. I'd like to know what the best thing to do is so interested in how this thread develops. Replace my existing pipes with the new Jaguar pipes, or use after-market Al with Viton seals. It feels like either is a risk at the moment!

 

jahummer .... what year is your car and when were the pipes replaced.

 

[QUOTE=jahummer;2718406]Can he explain why the super charger's removed as it is clearly in your pic? Why would he change the pipes under the supercharger first and then remove the supercharger?


The supercharger was never removed on my car... It's a Jaguar shop and the supercharger is NOT from my car. If you review the video I provided in my original post you can see exactly how the replacement was made.

 

FYI, George’s video is on p 12 of this thread…
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...2/#post2628955

 

It’s a 2015, pipes replaced 2019 due to leaking seams. The new ones started leaking at the joints and shortly after crumbled apart like wet crackers.

 

The new style pipes fail ,it was pissing on the pulley ,then the pulley siezed,and wrapped the belt up, those no question, put the metal and stop the gamble

 

So very thoughtful of you DJS..... unlike me who was making him go look for it....

 

Has Jaguar produced a new style crossover pipe for the V8 (ie without seams) and if so does anyone know the part number please? Going to have to get mine done before someone comes out with an Ali alternative sadly, but don't want to put the seam welded pipe in if I can avoid it. thanks

 

My 2024 R f-type does not have the seams.

 

Just a bit late? JLR updated the design nearly 10 years ago, however even the new plastic pipes will fail which's why this thread's about the aluminum versions available for a few years now....