F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

Aluminum Cooling Pipes - Finally!!

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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 07:32 AM
  #141  
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Now that is beyond COOL!!!
I must not buy. I must not buy.

Umm-How much did it cost?

I think I see the phone as 816-529-6089
Web site;
Mirror Polishing
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.
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Last edited by clubairth1; Oct 11, 2022 at 07:35 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 08:48 AM
  #142  
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Yeah, I was kidding about the name of the company and phone number - it's plastered all over the pictures. Ha-ha! I'd want to know if they can do them in bright blue or red. Although, I think the lower one which connects in front of the oil cooler is really hard to see in a fully-assembled engine, so maybe just do the top one? It's been so long since my engine has been fully assembled that I can even remember, offhand.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 09:51 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by 355rockit
The mechanic also mentioned that he had to use shorter bolt on one of the tubes since the original one for the plastic tube was too long for the new aluminum pipe to properly secure it.
Here is a pic of the oem plastic pipe and bolt in which oem bolt is too long for matched aluminum tube and shorter bolt was used per the mechanic. (sorry ..bolt is upside down in pic.)


 

Last edited by 355rockit; Oct 11, 2022 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 05:09 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Now that is beyond COOL!!!
I must not buy. I must not buy.

Umm-How much did it cost?

I think I see the phone as 816-529-6089
Web site;
Mirror Polishing
.
.
.
There are a lot of different options as far as looks go. We can do fully polished, prep and then do color for a matte look or prep for color for a shinier look, etc. Shoot us over photos of the condition of your pipes to: sales@mirrorfinishpolishing.com
 
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Old Oct 12, 2022 | 05:10 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Reaxions
Yeah, I was kidding about the name of the company and phone number - it's plastered all over the pictures. Ha-ha! I'd want to know if they can do them in bright blue or red. Although, I think the lower one which connects in front of the oil cooler is really hard to see in a fully-assembled engine, so maybe just do the top one? It's been so long since my engine has been fully assembled that I can even remember, offhand.
We can do a lot of different looks but it's all in the prep and such. Shoot us over photos to: sales@mirrorfinishpolishing.com and I can get you to where you need to be.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2022 | 04:13 PM
  #146  
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 12:28 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by Reaxions
You should've bribed them to remove the stupid symposer.
Put a rubber plug in it, it's easy! I did and it works great.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2022 | 03:11 PM
  #148  
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Mine's been dissected and destroyed in the name of science.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 06:10 AM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by Thunder Dump
It was later than that. My MY18 built in March 2017 had the old pipes. I believe the redesigned pipes became standard with the later builds of MY18 and newer.
I've yet to find the redesigned one-piece rear pipes. I've found a MY19 pipe - still the old sandwich design. Same part number as a 2013 (DX23-18N348-AD).
 
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 06:28 AM
  #150  
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Yes it's not clear that rear water manifold was or has been redesigned because it still looks to have the ultra-sonically welded plastic seams?
.
.
.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 10:43 AM
  #151  
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Rear water manifold links for the UK owners & information for everyone else.

LR122710
£102 - https://britcar.com/product.php/628918 (genuine)
£79 - https://britcar.com/product.php/654478 (aftermarket)

AJ814007
£94 - https://britcar.com/product.php/579846 (genuine)
£54 - https://britcar.com/product.php/690617 (aftermarket)
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 11:27 AM
  #152  
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I plan on tackling this job over the holidays along with replacing the SC coupler and changing the SC oil. I believe I have all the parts and gaskets (throttle body, intake x 2, water pump) and figure I will need some RTV (SC snout) and coolant to top off after any leaks. Is there anything I might be missing that I should get before starting? Drives me crazy having to stop in the middle of a job to run to the auto parts store. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 01:04 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by BarneysFType
... Is there anything I might be missing that I should get before starting? ......
A case of beer for backup.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 01:05 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
A case of beer for backup.
Do you think I am some sort of amateur, good sir?!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 01:09 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by BarneysFType
Do you think I am some sort of amateur, good sir?!
Just wanted to make sure
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 03:11 PM
  #156  
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Are you replacing the V6 s/c coupler with the uprated part or have you found the equivalent for the V8?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2022 | 03:16 PM
  #157  
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Max, I have the V6 so it is the updated, solid piece coupler for the Eaton TVS 1320. Part number EAT-361506.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 09:46 AM
  #158  
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Just a note?
Jaguar has a very specific product called out for the snout being attached to the blower. Now I can't say if RTV will work BUT for the cost of a tube of magic goo I would use what's called for?
Loctite 515-About $15-$20 at most places. I do find it a couple of dollars cheaper on EBay for it does vary.
Loctite 515
.
.
.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2022 | 06:57 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Just a note?
Jaguar has a very specific product called out for the snout being attached to the blower. Now I can't say if RTV will work BUT for the cost of a tube of magic goo I would use what's called for?
Loctite 515-About $15-$20 at most places. I do find it a couple of dollars cheaper on EBay for it does vary.
When I took mine apart, I noticed the dealership that previously replaced the coupler had definitely used an RTV of some sort to seal the snout and it seems to have worked just fine. Anyway, I agree that Loctite 515 would be a better choice, or 518, which SCOL suggests. Looking at the specs on the Loctite website, there doesn't seem to be much difference between the two. I'm sure either one will do.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2022 | 08:03 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
Just a note?
Jaguar has a very specific product called out for the snout being attached to the blower. Now I can't say if RTV will work BUT for the cost of a tube of magic goo I would use what's called for?
Loctite 515-About $15-$20 at most places. I do find it a couple of dollars cheaper on EBay for it does vary.
Loctite 515
.
.
.

Thank you, clubairth1. I had not looked that closely at the spec. I will definitely be going with the specified "magic goo". Thanks again!


 
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