When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 2013 XJ 3.0l has that piece that is blocked off. At first I thought I thought I had overlooked a hose while replacing the SC and then noticed that it was solid inside. Perhaps looking for this model and year coupled help you.
I just got an email about an update on this thread, so didn't read through the whole thing, but SCOL 100% recommends the Loctite 598 Black (34018) for the snout. So much so that they sent me a tube of it with my snout, after they attached my new Griptec pulley about a week ago.
Being an auto enthusiast myself, I've been a forum lurker for a while. Today I realized... hmm maybe I should actually say something. I do work for EuroAMP so therefor if anybody has questions about the pipes or any other parts we sell, I'd be more than happy to help.
Staying on topic, we now have a lot of the pipes in stock. They're packaged well (we had a small batch that came scratched but that's been sorted) and are very well manufactured. So far, we've sold about 50 of these and not a single customer has complained. We've used them on our own cars and they've given us no issues, just peace of mind.
The crux of doing the swap is the supercharger removal, but actually taking these parts on and off is a cakewalk.
Again, let me know if you have questions, want to talk about Jags/Rovers or need help. We have a lot of experience with these cars.
Christian
Christian,
I would like to thank you for the kit that I ordered from you (ORDER #1249);
Order confirmed on 30th December (late Christmas present to myself!) and received on my doorstep 5th January in the UK - That, is brilliant.
Considering the 'dither' time for our government to add it's nonsensical, extortionate VAT and Import duty charges, and the added fact that we were in the middle of the Royal mail's postal strike, amased!
So, thank you, I look forward to installing this little lot later in the year.
My only question at the moment is the sensor in the Thermostat housing.
I checked the fitment listing and I see it's compatible with the 15 V8R, but from memory I don't recall seeing this connector in the existing housing? I may be wrong of course.
However some tips I have come across that may be helpful for others looking to do the same thing with replacing their plastic lower Y pipe and upper coolant pipes with aluminum. First and foremost, I would HIGHLY recommend getting them from @EuroAMP I purchased through their ebay store, but you can buy them directly off their website as well. If planning to do the water pump at the same time (mine was already replaced while under warranty) they offer a complete kit. The reason I recommend them is they only carry the newer style aluminum pipe design that does not use the coupler that sits between the lower Y pipe and upper coolant pipe. Their customer service is excellent and from speaking with a few other forum members, not all the casts are created equally. Some of the aluminum casted pipes do not allow the upper coolant bolt holes to line up correctly. I have measured the ones provided by EuroAMP and they match.
Another tip I have learned through this process is around the lower Y pipe installation. When I first installed it, I was quick to just get it in, so the coolant overflowing from the block (yes I did a partial drain) stopped, however I noticed that the Y pipe did not appear to be seated properly. As their was no coolant leaking out, I left it as is for the time being as I am still in the process of getting the SC put back together. Today however I went and unbolted and reseated the Y-pipe again, making sure to rock it slightly back and forth, to force a better seal and sure enough, it sat further into the block then originally. I know the torque specs only require 10nm, however I over torqued them slightly to make sure again the rubber o-rings sealed in place, then backed out to re-torque to the right specs.
Lastly, for the upper pipe. Measure your bolt hole locations against the stock plastic one ahead of time. That last thing you want is to be stuck unable to reinstall or only get one of the mounting bolts in. I would also highly recommend adding an ever so slight bit of silicone grease to the o-ring to ensure a tight fit and seated into the lower Y-pipe correctly. It made life easier as some have mentioned they could not get it to seat properly. I believe the o-rings are meant to be a tight fit for a reason, to avoid leaks. I would also recommend doing a pressure test on the entire system to check for leaks ahead of adding coolant back into the system and then I would recommend a coolant vacuum kit to replace the coolant to help bleed the system. It is not required, but helpful to ensure any air is pushed out.
I have no doubt metal should be better than plastic, but from what I read the new cars have revised pipes, no? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was that the original pipes on the older cars had a seam in them, and that this was ultimately leading to failure. The suggestion seems to be that the newer pipes that are all one piece now should not have the issue?
I have no doubt metal should be better than plastic, but from what I read the new cars have revised pipes, no? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was that the original pipes on the older cars had a seam in them, and that this was ultimately leading to failure. The suggestion seems to be that the newer pipes that are all one piece now should not have the issue?
Is this about right?
In the near term I would agree. In the long term I think it’s more likely the plastic with age will become brittle and regardless of the design potentially have issues. The aluminum versions are more likely to last and not have that problem. Many are doing it “while already in there” or have an issue versus doing it just because.
No. O-ring in first then the grey plastic retainer. Then push the grey plastic back flush against the metal surface and the brass part should go in. Pull the collar out a bit so it grabs the brass tube good.
At least that was how I remember it. Been a while.
Yes while the improved plastic pipes are a bit better I have a 2014 XJR with the later version and they have already leaked and have been replaced under factory warranty.
The first generation Aluminum pipe's from Jaguar (With the added small coupler) are completely obsolete at this point and you can't get any of those parts anymore. Yes Jaguar started with Al. then went to really bad plastic and then went to not as bad plastic! A strange progression for sure!
Thank you very much for the feedback about the bolt holes. This is a critical bit of knowledge! I have the Al. pipes and have not installed them yet. Don't remember where I purchased them except I jumped on them WAY to early!! I paid about $215 for the pair and now they are all over for about $65 a pair! I just assumed they were all made by the same vendor but I guess not?
.
.
.
@clubairth1 I just broke this as well, does the rubber o-ring go on the brass fitting prior to being inserted into the retaining clip?
The shop that installed my aluminum pipes on my '15R said that the plastic retainer that came with the brass elbow didn't fit properly and kept popping out under pressure. They ended up using the original OEM plastic retainer clip which held well.
I have no doubt metal should be better than plastic, but from what I read the new cars have revised pipes, no? I thought I read somewhere that the issue was that the original pipes on the older cars had a seam in them, and that this was ultimately leading to failure. The suggestion seems to be that the newer pipes that are all one piece now should not have the issue?
Is this about right?
Yes on seem failure.
No on what I saw..the part that got inserted into the tubing and such, the "male" part of the coolant tubes on a 2016 with 55k was perhaps 1cm shorter than it should have been. Those plastic pieces were in the block in coolant pathways that my mechanic did a lot of work to clear out....
So something to think about. I went metal. Not sure if the "new" plastic material will do the above or not....but another reason to change out the older tubes.
The SC came off, so did all the S/C stuff too...solid piece, lube/fluid, etc.
New belt.
New thermostat. New water pump. New rear heater tube...the euroamp kit is what I used too..the max/biggest kit. I don't want to deal with this again for a long time..
The shop that installed my aluminum pipes on my '15R said that the plastic retainer that came with the brass elbow didn't fit properly and kept popping out under pressure. They ended up using the original OEM plastic retainer clip which held well.
@355rockit I just put the car back together today and bled the system and took it for a spirited drive. So far, so good. Another forum member suggested to slightly pull back the gray retainer clip and then push it completely back in, which is what I did and it sat completely flush to the water pump housing. I also applied a very small amount of silicone spray to the o-rings on both the upper and lower pipes and unlike others, they sat completely flush into the block and the upper pipe into the Y pipe. So far, no leaks (outside of when I was bleeding the system). brass elbow at the moment, appears to be okay as well.
Just had the work completed by an independent as the price was too good to refuse & tackle myself. Also had the s/c belt changed & new NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs fitted plus an engine oil change.
However, I can confirm which parts are not suitable for a V8R 2016MY:
AJ814048: Revised thermostat outlet
- This part number is for the V6, not V8. The correct one is: AJ812887
- On the 2016MY, the outlet is apparently metal, so the Indy didn't replace it. I haven't been able to find one for sale though...
LR055301: Coolant expansion tank bleed screw (brass)
- The thread is a different size, so doesn't fit. :-(
Just had the work completed by an independent as the price was too good to refuse & tackle myself. Also had the s/c belt changed & new NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs fitted plus an engine oil change.
However, I can confirm which parts are not suitable for a V8R 2016MY:
AJ814048: Revised thermostat outlet
- This part number is for the V6, not V8. The correct one is: AJ812887
- On the 2016MY, the outlet is apparently metal, so the Indy didn't replace it. I haven't been able to find one for sale though...
LR055301: Coolant expansion tank bleed screw (brass)
- The thread is a different size, so doesn't fit. :-(
that small brass screw is not for the expansion tank. That’s what I thought too. I confirmed with Euro Amp it’s meant to replace the coolant bleeder screw in the block. I’m not exactly sure where that is. I just didn’t use it. I wonder though if this is meant to go underneath for the drain plug? I stopped trying to figure it out. Once they confirmed it’s not for the expansion tank.
that small brass screw is not for the expansion tank. That’s what I thought too. I confirmed with Euro Amp it’s meant to replace the coolant bleeder screw in the block. I’m not exactly sure where that is. I just didn’t use it. I wonder though if this is meant to go underneath for the drain plug? I stopped trying to figure it out. Once they confirmed it’s not for the expansion tank.
Without the benefit of seeing it, is it meant to replace the plastic coolant bleed screw in the pipe on the very top left (U.S. passenger-side) of the engine?
Without the benefit of seeing it, is it meant to replace the plastic coolant bleed screw in the pipe on the very top left (U.S. passenger-side) of the engine?
that sounds like what they were saying. Do you have a picture.
