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Thank you... I ask because I am looking to add a fixed SVR style carbon fiber wing from Paramount Performance.
I will need to permanently disable the spoiler and am hoping to not receive error codes or be DSC / speed limited. So far, cutting the rod seems to be the only flawless way to get this accomplished because the motor remains operable. The spoiler just doesn't raise.
However, I did see that the Jaguar OEM add-on spoiler is an entire kit that has an electronic unit that replaces the motor (see link Step 5 / Part E). The motor leads plug into it, but it then requires an SDD update which I assume keeps the system from throwing codes or limiting DSC / speed limits. I don't know if this part is available on it's own and if the dealer could program it.
Question for those who have disabled the spoiler....
If you have to raise the spoiler to access the spoiler motor, how do you get the spoiler back down after you have disabled it?
Yep, that was the head scratcher for me as well.
The secret is to unplug the electrical connector with the spoiler fully lowered, and the easiest way to do that is to take the spoiler right off, see post # 133 in this thread for how to do that: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post1614196
This modification does what I wanted it to do, which was to disable the auto deployment feature at 70 mph, but I’ve discovered that it still does not give me full control of the spoiler as I would have liked. After studying the wiring diagram (kindly supplied by my dealer) I decided to add a switch to the spoiler inhibit relay circuit. You can find this circuit in the fuse block located on the left side of the driver’s footwell under a carpet flap that serves as a door. The switch was added to the yellow wire as shown in the attached .jpeg of the wiring diagram. By cutting the wire and splicing in an extra length of wire to each end I was able to route the wires under the carpeting at the firewall and fish them up to the console where I mounted the (SPST) switch. When I want the spoiler active the switch is closed (red) and visa-versa. What I discovered is that once the car is moving the switch mode I selected remains. In other words I can’t lower the spoiler if it has been deployed by opening the switch, and I can’t raise it say at 80 mph by closing the switch. My guess is that Jaguar software intervenes as this relay may be part of the manual raise circuit which verifies that the car is in park before it will allow the “manual spoiler raise switch” to be useable. It was a 50/50 chance between the yellow wire and the gray-violet wire feeding spoiler up relay (R300). In hindsight I would choose the GY-VT wire and see if the software module continues to send a raise signal as soon as the 70 mph is reached. In any case that is where it is for now and so far has not generated any alarm codes, so I’m goodAs far as the use of the spoiler goes, it is clearly not needed at speeds under100 mph. Jaguar has determined that 135 mph is their comfort envelope before they impose performance limits, so for me it is just a matter of selecting the mode for the type of driving I intend before I fire it up. Hope this is helpful and look forward to any feedback.
This modification does what I wanted it to do, which was to disable the auto deployment feature at 70 mph, but I’ve discovered that it still does not give me full control of the spoiler as I would have liked. After studying the wiring diagram (kindly supplied by my dealer) I decided to add a switch to the spoiler inhibit relay circuit. You can find this circuit in the fuse block located on the left side of the driver’s footwell under a carpet flap that serves as a door. The switch was added to the yellow wire as shown in the attached .jpeg of the wiring diagram. By cutting the wire and splicing in an extra length of wire to each end I was able to route the wires under the carpeting at the firewall and fish them up to the console where I mounted the (SPST) switch. When I want the spoiler active the switch is closed (red) and visa-versa. What I discovered is that once the car is moving the switch mode I selected remains. In other words I can’t lower the spoiler if it has been deployed by opening the switch, and I can’t raise it say at 80 mph by closing the switch. My guess is that Jaguar software intervenes as this relay may be part of the manual raise circuit which verifies that the car is in park before it will allow the “manual spoiler raise switch” to be useable. It was a 50/50 chance between the yellow wire and the gray-violet wire feeding spoiler up relay (R300). In hindsight I would choose the GY-VT wire and see if the software module continues to send a raise signal as soon as the 70 mph is reached. In any case that is where it is for now and so far has not generated any alarm codes, so I’m goodAs far as the use of the spoiler goes, it is clearly not needed at speeds under 100 mph. Jaguar has determined that 135 mph is their comfort envelope before they impose performance limits, so for me it is just a matter of selecting the mode for the type of driving I intend before I fire it up. Hope this is helpful and any feedback welcome.
I tried to post with pictures but it didn't go through. Maybe the files were too big??, so see following posts for the pics.
I may have to rethink of doing something different OzXFR. As you know, I used your method and it works great on the street! But as I stated before, at around 110mph the auto wing light comes on and automatically turns on my TCS which is a problem on track since some of the back straights you hitting 120ish. Also, once the TCS is kicked back on, you can not turn it back off without turning the car off and back on again.
This modification does what I wanted it to do, which was to disable the auto deployment feature at 70 mph, but I’ve discovered that it still does not give me full control of the spoiler as I would have liked. After studying the wiring diagram (kindly supplied by my dealer) I decided to add a switch to the spoiler inhibit relay circuit. You can find this circuit in the fuse block located on the left side of the driver’s footwell under a carpet flap that serves as a door. The switch was added to the yellow wire as shown in the attached .jpeg of the wiring diagram. By cutting the wire and splicing in an extra length of wire to each end I was able to route the wires under the carpeting at the firewall and fish them up to the console where I mounted the (SPST) switch. When I want the spoiler active the switch is closed (red) and visa-versa. What I discovered is that once the car is moving the switch mode I selected remains. In other words I can’t lower the spoiler if it has been deployed by opening the switch, and I can’t raise it say at 80 mph by closing the switch. My guess is that Jaguar software intervenes as this relay may be part of the manual raise circuit which verifies that the car is in park before it will allow the “manual spoiler raise switch” to be useable. It was a 50/50 chance between the yellow wire and the gray-violet wire feeding spoiler up relay (R300). In hindsight I would choose the GY-VT wire and see if the software module continues to send a raise signal as soon as the 70 mph is reached. In any case that is where it is for now and so far has not generated any alarm codes, so I’m goodAs far as the use of the spoiler goes, it is clearly not needed at speeds under 100 mph. Jaguar has determined that 135 mph is their comfort envelope before they impose performance limits, so for me it is just a matter of selecting the mode for the type of driving I intend before I fire it up. Hope this is helpful and any feedback welcome.
I tried to post with pictures but it didn't go through. Maybe the files were too big??, so see following posts for the pics.
03-02-2018 10:45 PM
Have you contemplated testing the GY-VT circuit to see if that delivers the more complete control you were seeking?
I think I'll wait until I've thoroughly tested what I have. I found out yesterday that if the switch is open (spoiler off) and I've been running above 70 and decide I want the spoiler up I just need to reduce speed to below 50 close the switch and resume 70 or above. I plan to try different combinations, but so far it works for me. Will let you know any other discoveries.
I think I'll wait until I've thoroughly tested what I have. I found out yesterday that if the switch is open (spoiler off) and I've been running above 70 and decide I want the spoiler up I just need to reduce speed to below 50 close the switch and resume 70 or above. I plan to try different combinations, but so far it works for me. Will let you know any other discoveries.
Well done!
For the most part of the past winter, I have been contemplating the same schematic.
My current Plan A is to splice into connector C34M by buying one male and one female part and making a small intelligent unit that lies in between - it would open and close the two spoiler position sensors in reaction to the motor signal.
Alas, Jaguar seems not to want to part with such connectors, as opposed to other car manufacturers, where they would be available as spare parts.
Thus Plan B: Cut one of the motor signals, and tap the other one, also tap the 2 pairs of leads of the spoiler position sensor switches (assuming that they close on position reached, I still need to check this first) and just close them when needed.
Still waiting for confirmation that the connectors are definitely not available from somewhere. They are located in the luggage compartment on the extreme left up against the side.
As an aside, I have successfully done something similar with the active exhaust, the neigbours are happy now: By shorting Pin 9 to ground on connector C34P (luggage compartment), the exhaust flaps are closed and the silence is golden.
Even on a cold start, the flaps close very quickly as pressure builds.
I used a 12V 433MHz wireless remote switch unit modified to switch to ground and used the ignition 12V (available in the luggage compartment) to power the receiver - no drain on the battery when car ist turned off. Just turn on the Jag by pressing Start without foot on the brake, switch the wireless to "CLOSE" (it defaults "OPEN"), start the car. While driving, you can close the exhaust any time, such as in an underground parking garage. The little remote is currently "lying" on the console. I bought the switch from an Amazonian Chinaman for $15.99.
But your pictures have shown me the way to go: I will mount two switches (for exhaust and for spoiler) in the console like you have done and lay a thin multipole cable (who knows what else may come along) from the luggage compartment to the front.
They actually also refer to simple disconnection of the C34M Plug/Socket pair and include diagram of the location.
To really get at it with enough freedom to unplug the connector, you need to remove the bottom, the front-middle and then the left felt panels in the luggage compartment, which entails pulling 4 plastic stoppers which might break, finagling out the middle panel (watch out: thin electric cable attached for the trunk lighting) and then comes the left panel: It is tucked in under the rubber trunk seal and is difficult to get out.
Alas, Jaguar seems not to want to part with such connectors, as opposed to other car manufacturers, where they would be available as spare parts.
I bet Jaguar will sell the connectors as part of the wiring harness!! ($$$$$)
For sure Jaguar don't make electrical connectors, so they will be available from somewhere if you can identify them - maybe look for some kind of identifying mark on them that maybe indicates the manufacturer.
Here's a place that carries all kinds of automotive connectors:
Well done!
For the most part of the past winter, I have been contemplating the same schematic.
My current Plan A is to splice into connector C34M by buying one male and one female part and making a small intelligent unit that lies in between - it would open and close the two spoiler position sensors in reaction to the motor signal.
Alas, Jaguar seems not to want to part with such connectors, as opposed to other car manufacturers, where they would be available as spare parts.
Thus Plan B: Cut one of the motor signals, and tap the other one, also tap the 2 pairs of leads of the spoiler position sensor switches (assuming that they close on position reached, I still need to check this first) and just close them when needed.
Still waiting for confirmation that the connectors are definitely not available from somewhere. They are located in the luggage compartment on the extreme left up against the side.
As an aside, I have successfully done something similar with the active exhaust, the neigbours are happy now: By shorting Pin 9 to ground on connector C34P (luggage compartment), the exhaust flaps are closed and the silence is golden.
Even on a cold start, the flaps close very quickly as pressure builds.
I used a 12V 433MHz wireless remote switch unit modified to switch to ground and used the ignition 12V (available in the luggage compartment) to power the receiver - no drain on the battery when car ist turned off. Just turn on the Jag by pressing Start without foot on the brake, switch the wireless to "CLOSE" (it defaults "OPEN"), start the car. While driving, you can close the exhaust any time, such as in an underground parking garage. The little remote is currently "lying" on the console. I bought the switch from an Amazonian Chinaman for $15.99.
But your pictures have shown me the way to go: I will mount two switches (for exhaust and for spoiler) in the console like you have done and lay a thin multipole cable (who knows what else may come along) from the luggage compartment to the front.
I like your plan. Be interested to see how it acts. The connectors are most likely made by a known supplier like Molex or other, you might look for a brand marking. Just a word of caution as you locate your switches on the console. The aluminum surround is supported and located by a 2" wide tab at the center (it shows in my pic), so you'll have to center your switches between the existing start switch, 12V receptacle and the this center tab to avoid interference.
I bet Jaguar will sell the connectors as part of the wiring harness!! ($$$$$)
Yes, you are right.
My dealer told me that's the way to go - buy the complete harness.
I already had an experience with that:
A pedestrian impact sensor on the front of the car was inactive a year ago - the fault was due to a mangled connector, mangled by the dealer who fitted the black radiator screen (aftermarket). To fix it, they had to scavenge parts from some other stuff they had from scrapped cars - the little metal tongues in the connectors. Or they solder and insulate - he was very reluctant say more.
Thanks! Now that is a fascinating site. I will see if they ship to Europe. But although they have one connector that looks 90% similar, they haven't got the right one. The search continues...
So much effort to remove a Sales Feature. It might not provide an Owner Benefit in your home market, but I’m left wondering what other element of the car’s design you would be willing to try circumventing based on an inability to easily alter it?
So much effort to remove a Sales Feature. It might not provide an Owner Benefit in your home market, but I’m left wondering what other element of the car’s design you would be willing to try circumventing based on an inability to easily alter it?
“The exhaust is too loud” Oh, wait...🙄
Probably everything is fair game. As a motorhead I find it fun to do small projects on my cars if it makes something work better for me. I also have a Lotus and Lotus Talk has the same discussions going on. I'm sure the Jag engineers had a lot of fun and discussion on how each feature was going to be presented and knew that they couldn't please everyone. The F-Type is nearly perfect and I love it. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/i...cons/icon7.gif
Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spoiler disabled without cutting any rods or cables, and can be re-enabled if I want in 20 minutes or so (now that I know what to do).
Step 1 - raise the spoiler and remove the two black plastic covers on the underside where the "arms" are (a gentle push from the side, inside to out, with a trim removal tool and they pop off).
This reveals two spoiler lid mounting bolts each side, Torx T30.
Step 2 - lower the spoiler all the way.
Step 3 - raise the hatch.
Step 4 - remove the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch that sit directly under those spoiler lid mounting bolts, oval shaped with cross-hatching. I first thought they were for nothing but water drainage, but noooo, removing them gives you access to the spoiler lid mounting bolts with the spoiler in the closed position - that bit is vital.
They are not at all easy to remove, I did it by using a thin plastic trim removal tool to lever up the rubber edges all the way around, sort of "untucking" them from where they are tucked in all around the mounting holes. Only then could I get a trim removal tool in and under, create a gap, then pull them down and off using my fingers.
Step 5 - remove the four T30 bolts holding the spoiler lid on, and remove the spoiler lid (carefully!).
Step 6 - close the hatch.
Step 7 - remove the spoiler mechanism black plastic cover, around 12 "star security" 5 point TS27 screws. Once you have removed those screws grab the spoiler "arms" and tug upwards, and the whole thing lifts off, held on by some wiring.
Step 8 - disconnect the spoiler power plug, a grey/white plug a bit left of centre. I just left it loose in the cavity, no tape or zip tie, it wasn't going anywhere and it wasn't going to rattle.
Step 9 - check that the spoiler no longer works. Turn the ignition on and use the spoiler button - it should light up but do nothing, and you should get a message in the message centre between the speedo & tacho saying something like "spoiler inoperative".
Step 10 - refit the spoiler arms / black cover.
Step 11 - raise the hatch, and refit the spoiler lid (the four T30 bolts). The two plastic covers that previously went over these under the spoiler are now surplus to requirements. Before you tighten those bolts right up check the fit of the spoiler, by lowering the hatch, and adjust the fit as necessary. Fact is, per the repair manual this whole procedure is purely for aligning/adjusting the fit of the spoiler!
Step 12 - refit the two plastic covers on the underside of the hatch. Again not easy, I found the best way was to angle each of them in on one side, press that side until you got a faint click, then push the other side in, then thump it tight with a closed hand. Then using the trim removal tool tuck the rubber surrounds back.
Step 13 - go for a spirited drive and grin at the fact that the pesky spoiler no longer raises it's ugly head!
So just resurrecting an old post on disabling the rear spoiler, just wondering would it just not be simpler to just disconnect the rods that make the spoiler work on the mechanism from the attachment points , then the rods would still work but not actually do anything then no issues
Last edited by powerhouse; 05-24-2019 at 07:24 PM.
So just resurrecting an old post on disabling the rear spoiler, just wondering would it just not be simpler to just disconnect the rods that make the spoiler work on the mechanism from the attachment points , then the rods would still work but not actually do anything then no issues
Pretty sure that idea has been covered before and it was found there was no way to disconnect the rods without cutting them, so some have done just that!
Can understand the benefit of the spoiler at high speeds, but if it were really needed at the speed it raises currently, one would really question the aero of the car...
It (imo) feels silly the spoiler going up at only 70mph already.
And it sure looks like silly driving at such "speed" on freeways, surrounded by all sorts of vehicles that can make do without spoiler.
Would be nice to be able to manually keep the spoiler down - via the existing spoiler button - as long as that action would be still automatically overruled at a speed the spoiler is really needed.
03-02-2018, 09:19 AM
and insulate - he was very reluctant say more.
