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I plasti dip the leaper a while back. the letters were PITA to do properly so I left them as-is. This thread got me motivated to remove the JAGUAR badge since it looked odd w/ the white leaper. Still debating if I want to also remove F-TYPE and R...probably just leave them for now, or maybe try to black them out to add some contrast. from day one I don't understand why they weren't blacked out w/ the black pack option.
I plasti dip the leaper a while back. the letters were PITA to do properly so I left them as-is. This thread got me motivated to remove the JAGUAR badge since it looked odd w/ the white leaper. Still debating if I want to also remove F-TYPE and R...probably just leave them for now, or maybe try to black them out to add some contrast. from day one I don't understand why they weren't blacked out w/ the black pack option.
dude you should black out that leaper. I saw a blacked out leaper on an xfr a few weeks ago. looked tight. would go well with your dark tint rear window.
So uhh... How does one go about debadging?
I dislike the s badge. The fruity colors are not suitable for my Italian girl.
Strong dental floss. Work it under the badge as close to the bodywork as possible. Do not succumb to the temptation to pry it off after you are halfway though. After the badge is removed, soak the remaining foam rubber and adhesive with mineral spirits and patiently work the rest of it loose as it dissolves. Then clean with soap and water, dry thouroughly and rewax the area. The minerals spirits will not damage the clearcoat, but will remove wax and maybe some sealants as well.
Note: do not remove the leaper as you will expose positioning dimples in the sheetmetal. (unless you plan on putting another back on).
After the badge is removed, soak the remaining foam rubber and adhesive with mineral spirits and patiently work the rest of it loose as it dissolves. Then clean with soap and water, dry thouroughly and rewax the area. The minerals spirits will not damage the clearcoat, but will remove wax and maybe some sealants as well.
Thanks!
Any alternative for mineral spirits or recommended brand? (Honestly the first I hear of such a thing)
Thanks!
Any alternative for mineral spirits or recommended brand? (Honestly the first I hear of such a thing)
Any hardware store will have it. They'll have it in pint or quart cans. It's also perfect for degreasing parts since it has a high flash point (not a fire hazard) and is low in volatile emissions and nasty carcinogens. Opposite gasoline in those 3 regards.
Whenever I see a debaged car I always assume someone bough the base model and didn't want anyone to know
Don't mind the blacked out ones though. But I won't be doing anything to change my perfect car.
I obviously don't know about such perceptions and practices in Oz, but in the U.S., it's generally the opposite--someone bought the most expensive and powerful version, and doesn't want people to notice that or to appear pretentious.
I've tended to leave things completely stock on the exterior.
I obviously don't know about such perceptions and practices in Oz, but in the U.S., it's generally the opposite--someone bought the most expensive and powerful version, and doesn't want people to notice that or to appear pretentious.
I've tended to leave things completely stock on the exterior.
I suspect 99% of the debaged 3&4 series BMW's here are 4cylinder 318is or diesels etc
The 318 hasn't been sold in this country since the 80's, and diesels are a rarity in any make or model, no doubt because of our relatively cheap gasoline. We're just starting to see them, and the type that purchases a BMW diesel is very proud of that.
I'm fully American, and I can't wrap my head around the debadging thing....I agree that most debadged cars make me think the car was wrecked and then repaired or the lower model.
