Hello all. Guess I should start with a re-introduction. When I joined this forum, some 5 years ago, I owned a custom car shop called University Classics and Custom Creations...hence the UC3. I have since sold the shop and only rebuild vehicles as a hobby. While I have rebuilt many Jaguars over the years, including a couple XFs recently (one for my CPA and one for my mom) I have wanted an F-Type since I first heard them growl.

Fast forward until last week. I had been watching a non-run and drive 2014 S V8 with 29k miles on IAAI's auction site. It was scheduled to go through on Wednesday and suddenly on Tuesday it changed to a run and drive. Consequently the bidding took off as I continued to monitor. I joined the fray as the bidding went live and miraculously my final bid before I dropped out won. So, I was the new proud papa of an S V8

Online auction pics...






I quickly arrange for delivery from TX to my home in AL. I get a call from the driver when he arrives for pickup late on Thursday afternoon informing me there is no key with her. Well, after lighting up IAAI on Friday morning, they "find" the key in the office. Fortunately the driver has not left yet and goes by to retrieve the key to my new beasty.

She arrives in Birmingham on Sat morning early and I have a rollback waiting to remove her from the carrier and deposit her lifeless body into my garage. I have a new battery waiting for her and hope I will not need to administer CPR. First off, I notice there is no possible way it can be a "Run and Drive" because the front left lower control arm is broken and the spindle in sitting on the wheel. So much for the "Drive" part. I installed the new battery and very little happens. I get some lights, but no ACC and no attempt to start. So much for the "Run" part of the equation...

...to be continued...

 

I wish you the best of luck in this rebuild. I'd check with the basics like the fuses to determine if they are the cause of the no start.

Another obstacle you may run into is Jaguar selling you the body parts you'll need. Jaguar is very particular about selling replacement body parts and typically will not sell to a non JLR certified aluminum shop.

 

...continuing the saga.

I performed a VIN check online and found a plethora of high quality pictures taken of her when she was for sale in Jackson MS. These even included a pic of the original sticker so I have a full list of options.



Saturday I started the disassembly process. Removing the lower rocker cover was simple enough, but the bolts are all loose...indicating someone has been in here before...presumably the body shop where the estimate was given. Up until this point I had been questioning why they totalled this car with such low mileage and in such clean shape. and whatever they found caused them to total out the vehicle. As I removed the front left fender, suddenly everything begins to make sense as the ABS Pump/Module fell out. Apparently when the lower control arm failed...



...it allowed the tire/wheel to swing back and make significant contact with the ABS module breaking the mounts and driving it back into a pinch seam causing an internal short in the module.





I was able to cut and separate the individual wires to a point they were no longer causing a direct sort in the system, locate and replace the 30 AMP fuse which was blown, and then attempt to push the blinking start button. The beast immediately came to life and settled into a nice smooth idle.

Understanding I have plenty of sub-system errors from traction control to electronic differential, but she is alive.

I have located and purchased a matching ABS pump/module, the mounting brackets, and the associated wiring harness. They will be here by weekend.

Here is the left side disassembled. The great news is no structural damage. Everything is straight and all the damage is apparently cosmetic and/or bolt-on mechanical (lower control arm and ABS.)

 

Thanks for the reply. When I get ready to have the rear quarter replaced, it will be done so by a JLR certified shop. Everything else is bolt on. I have the lower rocker cover ordered, both retaining clips, new hinges for the door, and a new left fender. I have yet to locate a door, but if I have too, I will order a new shell from Jaguar. Everything including the door handle is still fully functional on this one. I just need the raw shell.

 

So, as you may have noticed, I have not one but two broken wheels. I like to be a bit different so I ordered a new set of 4 custom drilled aftermarkets in lieu of purchasing two replacements. These are the new wheels I have on order and yes, they will clear the performance front brakes.

Due to the black vents and trim on this V8-S, I opted for the black wheels with the machined faces.

 

Great project I look forward to following your progress!

 

Look forward to following this as well. Can't quite make out the custom wheel manufacturer. Can you post the wheel info, mfr., size, forged or cast, offsets, etc? It's good info for forum to have as wheels are always topic of discussion. Looks like your going to need new rubber too? Happy rebuilding!

 

Sure...even including a photoshopped pic until I get them installed. You are also correct on the needing new rubber. I ordered her a new set of shoes in the form of Kumho Ecsta PS91's.

The company is GWG Wheels out of New York. I called and spoke to a guy there (happened to be the owner who was very knowledgeable) and the ones I really wanted would not clear the front rotors without spacers. These 20" staggered Razors will clear. I ordered 9" front and 10.5" rear with different offsets. They are custom drilled so expect a couple day delay for manufacturing. They were fairly inexpensive too, so we shall see how they hold up. I needed something under her so I could move her around during repairs and the full set of these was less $ than one new factory wheel.

 

I like the look of them on the satellite grey. Didn't think I would. Nice photoshop work!

 

Thank you. I think I am going to really like them. I am ordering blacked out parts to replace all the chrome with the exception of the exhaust tips. I am also planning to have the tail lights blacked out. It should look sweet...

 

Was able to get a little progress today. I disassembled the entire front to ensure nothing else was damaged. I found one broken bracket and have ordered it. I am also replacing the small winglets and the lower air dams because someone curbed her multiple times.

 

I am loving this thread! I can't wait to see this cat come back to life.

 

Robert,
I see there is a big ding/crease along the left edge of the hood, how do you propose to fix that?
I have read that it is damn near impossible to "panel beat" aluminium, so is a new hood your only choice or do you have something else planned?

 

That is a seriously good question....and to be quite honest, I am not quite sure at this point. Replacing the entire hood is an option, but I will be taking her over to my body guys for the repair and paint in a couple weeks once I get everything else finished. I will be leaving that decision up to them, and you guys will know as soon as I do

 

Yes a new hood would be ~$1,470.15, seems reasonable. They also don't have to panel beat it, to make it look right. Just bondo over it, shape it, sand, prime, paint, from the outside will look perfect, underneath you will be able to see it's not perfect.

 

Robert,

I'm posting mainly so the thread 'bookmarks' for me.

Is there no comeback for the auction site misrepresenting the vehicle as 'run and drive' or is it not worth the bother to pursue?

Good luck - although you won't need it as you look to be well on top of the repair process.

Graham

 

There really isn't. In the fine print on the auction contract it very clearly states the buyer is responsible for inspecting the vehicle and it is really getting to be a buyer be very ware at these insurance auctions. It seems IAAI is the worst. They state the status is only for reference. Now to be a "Run and Drive" it also states the vehicle has to start and move forward at least 6" on its own power, which we know in this example is simply not possible. This F-Type was in TX and while they encourage (and even advertise for remote inspection services) it is not really feasible.

I have been in a Corvette rebuilding mood for the past couple years and was looking for either another Vette or F-Type. The week previous to purchasing this F-Type I placed an online bid on a specific Grand Sport convertible and when the pre-bid closed my upper bid was $8k higher than current bid. It went to local bidding and sold to a local buyer for $4k LESS than my upper bid. They made excuses about technical glitches etc, but the more likely truth is the local auctioneer got slipped a couple notes to sell it locally and ignore the online bids. Now I am glad because I have had many Corvettes and I get the opportunity to rebuild an F-Type.

Oddly enough, one also has to also be careful who the seller is in these auctions. There are some people that buy the wrecked vehicles, perform basic repairs, add less damaged panels to cover significant structural damage, and even swap the low mileage original engine for high mileage engines and then run them back through the auction to make a profit without having to actually go through the process of rebuilding the vehicle correctly, get it inspected by the State and receive a clear rebuilt title (what I do). I have a friend who has been buying and selling salvage vehicles for close to 20 years. He is really good at spotting the BS and doing the research necessary to see if it has gone through an auction previously. He saved me from purchasing a presumably low mileage minimally damaged F-Type that had 6 months previously gone through with more substantial damage and more miles.

This F-Type was purchased directly from State Farm as the seller at its first run through the auction. While IAAI misrepresented it, State Farm benefited because they received more $$ for the vehicle because of it and therefore they have no incentive to make adjustments.

I am satisfied with the purchase even though I will have to spend more money on parts I was not anticipating purchasing (ABS system and harness) I purchased a vehicle that is exactly what it says it is, 29k miles and all original mechanically with no structural damage...and you guys get to sit back and watch the progress. So I will stop and move on with the fun stuff...

Oh, one more tidbit of information. I am getting married in 2 months so progress might slowdown as I get busy planning for it and paying for the honeymoon...or...it might speed up really quickly and I use this F-Type as the vehicle to depart from the wedding...only time will tell because I currently feel like

 

For those of you interested, here are a couple before and after of previous builds...

 

Great thread and great job Robert. Looking forward to following your progress!
How does the underside look? Reason I ask is that I've worked on a few cars that were purchased from insurance auctions and the underside of all of them was ****ed in one way or another, since they don't really care at the auction and move the cars around constantly using a forklift... hope yours is in good shape.

 

Great read. Looks like you are fully capable to handle the challenge. Since all new Jags are aluminum,(actually have been for over ten years) looks like we will all have to learn how to deal with these cars as they depreciate down into the hobbyist price range.