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Perhaps, but he misidentifies the wiring as "sensors" and the technician appeared to be using an adjustable wrench on the LF ball joint. I can't give him full marks.
One thing I suggest if you get a shop to do this is to remove and refit the rear hatch cover panels (where the rear strut tops are) yourself, as it's fairly labour intensive and you will save a bundle in labour costs.
I "sort of" did that - I didn't remove the panels for fear of breaking clips and/or causing rattles, instead I removed the hatch floor covers and a couple of christmas tree plugs in each panel, and that gave me enough room to lift the sides of the panels, reach underneath and pull out the polyurethane? styrofoam? padding pieces which fit over the strut top nuts.
Only one slight glitch - those padding pieces are fairly fragile and a little difficult to remove, and I broke one in half getting it out - but the two pieces went back in no worries and no-one but I (and now you!) will ever know that piece is broken.
I’m all for extreme lowering, but anything beyond the standard H&R lowering is counter-productive.
I can tell you from experience, our 7/8" drop springs are as far as it is possible to go and still hit stock caster adjustment. Anything beyond that and geo changes quite a bit.