2017 F Type S AWD bought used with 35.8k miles on it. 2 owner car. Its been doing ok I think it had the snaps and pops programmed out of it. But not a big issue I love the car just the same.

Was going to do the Y pipe upgrade and rear heater manifold replaced with aluminum along with switching out the supercharger coupler and adding a metal thermostat, new water pump with aluminum water pump to oil cooler pipe. Holy crap getting the thermostat off is a bear...and the auxiliary belt is no fun either.

And then I saw it. Front timing chain cover leaking oil on the left side of the engine.... a pretty nasty leak been there a long time a lot of caked on dried nasty oil... So you can try and do just the timing chain cover without taking the valve gasket... forget about it they coincide at the front of the engine so your doing BOTH.

Got those off today 6/15/25 and luckily the timing chains on both sides are tight as can be after being off for 48 hours - I think that is a good sign. Hopefully I get everything sealed up oil wise and coolant wise and we will be good to go!

Loth

 

ok so my 35.8k mile 2017 Ftype S AWD "Lemon Law" Car is nearing completion. For a 3 owner Ftype nearly out of break-in...

We switched out the old supercharger for a new refurbished one with fresh oil and new Eaton solid coupler from Quality Superchargers. I put on new pressure sensor and electronic actuator as well. The old one had a small clunk in the coupler but not nearly as bad as ive seen at this mileage. The metal Y pipe and the rear heater manifold both switched to aluminum - the old ones surprisingly looked new but were initial 2-piece pipes - they had to be factory. New water pump and aluminum connector to the oil cooler. New metal thermostat and a new rubber coolant pipe with brass connector to water pump. The upper left timing chain cover was removed and resealed and we did the right one as well. As taking this off disturbs the valve cover gasket we also did those. as this was the AWD version there was almost no V corrosion. All 6 injectors were removed without breaking them - all tips were cleaned, and a new injector kit was applied with proper tools (there are specific tools and time frames regarding this kit and replacement into the engine!). 6 new OEM spark plugs. New belts both auxiliary and supercharger belt.

Still to come before i get the car back - refill the coolant, front differential change with 330mL of 750B, rear differential with 1.3L 720 for the rear diff. Jaguar OEM transfer case oil change hopefully without stripping the bolts into the frame :O.

 

Man that is a thorough and in depth set of repairs!
You should be good to go for a long time.

The ONLY thing I can think of is maybe replace the heater bleed screw with the Brass version?
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Not a lot of miles, but I’d inspect engine mounts if accessible.

 

I do feel low down in the RPM there is a significant amount of vibration in the car. There is a rattle in the dash going 70mph in 8th gear will only go away if I'm in 7th based off the RPM. Wonder if that is engine mount vibration causing that dash vibration. I know its significant.

Loth

 

For the Ftype S which has a rear LSD, not the open in the base Ftype and not the E-diff in the R...it was only 860-880 mL of Castrol 720 diff oil, not 1300 mL. The 1.3L of 720 is in the E-diff aka Ftype R.

 

So I'm getting a warning on my dash that says "Check fuel cap filler". Code in my OBD is "P0442". Does the car have a specific fuel cap sensor or is it generic for a P0442 code to come up like that?

 

Usually the gas cap.

Check the seal inside it, also verify that there are no knicks or scrapes on the sealing surface of the filler.

Google provided this:
Common Causes:

• Fuel Cap: A loose, damaged, or improperly sealing fuel cap is a frequent culprit.

• EVAP System Components: Leaks can also occur in the fuel lines, vapor lines, charcoal canister, purge valve, vent valve, or other parts of the EVAP system.
• Leak Detection Pump (LDP): The LDP, which helps detect leaks, could be malfunctioning.