Has anyone else experience with drag racing the F-Type? What are recommended settings. I'd like to have a go up at Sonoma raceway in a few weeks. My car is lowered 1.5" and on fairly new Michelin Pilot SS.

Since I'm in a vert do you know if a roll bar is required for these kind of drags? I have a snell (Bell) helmet but no roll bar. Anyone else fit a roll bar in their vert?

Obviously, Dynamic mode, Sport shift.

TracDSC or Traction off?

Anything else I should know? I've never drag raced before.

 

If you wait for the light to turn GREEN, you've waited too long...

 

I believe the technique to increase torque converter stall speed is to hold the brake and apply light throttle just before releasing the brake and then modulating throttle to avoid wheel spin. Do a couple burnouts before the run to get your tires hot & sticky.

 

I believe this is how you gain 'launch control' on the V6 but it doesn't exist on my V8. God knows I've tried...

 

Talk to LoveMonet - she'll be able to advise you on what to wear...

 

That's right, I forgot about that. Max torque not needed on the 8 to get to the traction limit on takeoff. Might be needed, though, with the AWD R.

 

Just read the rules...for all 11-13s cars, convertibles need a roll bar. Seems I would't be allowed to compete since the F-type I believe is a 12s car...



Anyone any experience with drag racing? shift?

 

Yes, 11.8 for the V8R and 12.0 for the V8S: Jaguar 0-60 Times & Jaguar Quarter Mile Times

 

I'm pretty sure the loops behind our head on the vert counts. In any case I've seen a ton of videos on V8S's running the quarter mile with no special bars.

 

11.861 for the stock V8S on factory tires: Stock 2014 Jaguar F-Type V8 S 1/4 mile Drag Racing timeslip specs 0-60 - DragTimes.com

11.792 for the stock V8R (this was shift's car): Stock 2015 Jaguar F-Type R 1/4 mile trap speeds 0-60 - DragTimes.com

Best time on Dragtimes for the F Type is 11.69 from a V8S with a tune.

 

Wow. There're so much to say here, but I'll give it a try. I'm writing this as if you are stepping on the starting line for the first time.

Keep it simple:

--Read up on the basics of drag racing before you go. Many good primers on the net (including using a safety-rated helmet and racing etiquette);

--For your first few runs, get used to the whole process; Don't try to do too much; Your Jag will do all the heavy lifting; It's auto is very responsive unlike a dual-clutch trans which usually hesitates every so slightly off the line; You press down and it just plain takes off (but you already know that, heh);

--Keep the car in Drive (D)--no sequential stuff or paddles;

--Keep all traction devices on--they may interfere, but at least you won't run the risk of going sideways into your opponent;

--Staging is in two parts: Pre-stage (the first yellow light) and below the pre-staging light, a Staging light (the second yellow light); You are ready to race (but don't go yet) once you and your opponent have staged (both yellow staging lights are activated).

--After you stage, keep your foot lightly on the brake; Forget power-braking stuff too, at least for now;

--The signal to go/race is given once you receive a green light from the Staging Lights (aka as the "Tree," a mechanism that activates a series of three yellow lights that work their way down to "Green," one light at a time;

--There are loads of info out there on how to cut a tree; Try to do your best to leave the line when the last of the three yellow lights comes on--the green light is next to come on;

--Once you receive the green light (the light will light up for your opponent as well), GO! But, be sure to modulate the throttle--if you simply mash the gas, you'll stay in one place and go nowhere (at least until you let up on the gas);

--At the end of the drag strip is a series of lines that designate the end of the 1/8 or 1/4 mile. Once you cross the finish line, let up on the gas and don't jam on the binders--just gently ease into the brakes and move to the right and off the strip; You'll find an access road where those who have just finished racing are returning; Be sure to look for those cars who have finished;

--Practice may not always make perfect, but it will certainly help you. After a run or two, you'll get the hang of it. Good luck!

 

Technically per NHRA rules convertibles need a roll BAR at 13.49 or faster which your Jag is clearly capable of.
I went with WaltB and his V8S was running close to 12.0. -- this was at an NHRA track that banned me for running under 11.50 on my other street car.

So...depending on the track they may or may not let you off. I would just go for it.

As far as technique -- if you can't get the tires to STICK then you need to keep the trac control on. My Pirellis smoke under any torque -- I'm not sure how good the Michelins will be. I wouldn't go out on my first few runs without TC on personally. Keep it in S and let the computer shift!

 

Excellent summary

Only thing I would add is that if you are on street tires and after low ET, go easy on the burnouts. With street rubber once the get over heated you will loose traction not gain it. If you are there for ***** and giggles then go for it :-)

 

You going to the Wed Night Drag thing at Sonoma? From my sense of things, if you show up in a brand new, modern factory car they will let you run. The roll bar/etc. is for guys trying to build out a 1980s car--they want to make sure those cars have enough safety equipment.

Will you be do the bracket racing thing? Or just want to see how fast your car is? If you are not doing that bracket racing thing, then reaction time doesn't really matter. You can just sit there for 5 seconds and your overall time will be 16 seconds. But the time slip will break things down to show you the real time (11.xxx + the 5 seconds you just sat there). So don't get too worried about reaction time if you just want to see how fast your car is.

Recommendations...

1. fuel, maybe 1/4 tank...
2. tire pressure...maybe try low 30s. factory 36spi is definitely too high. I think I ran 33psi but should have probably gone down to maybe 31 or 32.
3. leave the suspension is normal mode. theory is it'll allow the car to squat a little.
4. go around the water box...not needed for our street tires
5. you can do a quick spin of the tire to get rid of debris, but it's not for heat/traction...street tires don't need it and will actually hurt
6. I was in dynamic mode + sport (w/ suspension set to normal). don't think you want it in TracDSC or off, because that'll make launching more difficult.

For the F-Type, w/ so much torque and no launch control...the key is trying to get a good launch. If you just floor it, tires will spin and you will go no where and your times will be bad. It needs to be a good, gradual power. Heck, if I go back I might try to see if starting in 2nd gear helps. My 1st run I did a pretty good launch. But after that it was difficult for me to repeat. Possibly because the tires got too hot(?).

But otherwise it's pretty straight forward. Show up, line up in the inspection line. A guy will come by and tech inspect you (car is so new they will just OK it). Then drive to the drag strip area in the proper lane (for our class of vehicles...I think I was in the fun street class, or something like that). Then just follow the worker's instructions.

 

To re-iterate what others have said...try to practice launching before going if you can. It's harder than it sounds to get a good launch w/o all the torque just spinning the wheels. It sounds/looks cool, but is slow. You want that boring launch where traction is at 100% used, no more, no less.

 

The point on the rollbar is a good one. You may not be able to run at all without a bar, or the "starter" (the track official at the starting line) may give you one run and go from there.

Since this is your first time at the track, I wouldn't worry about doing burnouts. As you progress, you can look into them. There's distinct advantages doing burnouts on drag slicks and street slicks--lesser so (and in some cases, much less) on OEM performance tires, depending on the make-up of their rubber compound. So again I suggest you forget the burnout for now.

Oh, and be sure to go around the water pit when the starter motions you to approach the staging area/starting line. The water pit is used for racing slicks only; street tires pick up the water between their treads and deposit water on the starting line. Starters hate that, not to mention other racers.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Its not my first time to a track, just the first time doing drag racing. Shift, I'm quite interested in their 'racing the police' thing they have going on. Can't wait to cook me some bacon with the V8

 

The one time I went for it from the lights in the V8R (test drives should be thorough...), I let it start to roll after releasing the brakes, then fed the throttle in all the way to the floor. No wheel spin, but it reached 100 almost as fast as my bike.

 

I'd like to hear what success people have had setting up the launch on the AWD version. AWD sucks up a whole lot of initial torque and this is the most difficult vehicle I have had figuring out how to stage correctly.

By the way; at Sonoma Raceway, they are sticklers for the roll bar rules. I have watched them wave off the Convertible Jaguars for not having an official NHRA approved & currently licensed roll bar. I think NHRA rules say you can't run faster than around 13+ seconds in a convertible without the inspected/approved roll-bar. Considering that we just had a guy crash and kill himself tonight WITH the correct roll-bar, you are not going to get a 'free wave off' run at their track. Sacramento is much easier on bending the rules than Sonoma, Ca.

 

My suggestion would be that if it's your first time going, don't run immediately. Park your car and watch for a few minutes. Everything said above is great advice.
This got me thinking of when I used to go to LACR on friday nights down in southern cal. Then I realized, that was 20 years ago. S**t. I'm old.