My passenger side molding is separated from the body right at the door. When looking for a new one, I see the part number has updated 3 times. So I am guessing this is an issue with our cars and am wondering if anyone else had had this issue?

 

The newest revisions do it as well. My 2024 has already had it happen. I had decided to swap the trims anyway, but my recommendation if you want to keep the same color is to use a high-strength auto adhesive where it is separated (talk to a body shop) rather than replacing, as they're just put together with 3m double-sided emblem tape from factory.

 

PO looks to have used double sided tape, so guess I will get a used one and try a stronger tape.

Thanks 71Camaro!!

 

You have a picture?

 

You'll want to probably use a two-part trim adhesive that body shops use to stick it back together. Longer work times mean stronger bonds, but also mean trying to figure out how to keep it in place and stationary while the adhesive hardens.
Something like a 3m panel-bonding adhesive will never come apart, but takes twenty-four hours to harden completely. Also, any flexibility provided by the tape (it should be like 2mm thick) will be negated and gone, which may or may not be a good thing.

 

Part of my side window trim was lifting and the guidance I got here was to use a GEL formula of superglue. Standard superglue is rather runny and the gel stays in place a bit better. If you are in any sort of warm climate, or if the car is parked in the sun, most tapes will heat up and the adhesive will let go.
Working inside, in about 60 degree garage, I took green painter's tape and put it all around the edges on the car where I was going to be working. Gently using one of those plastic trim tools, I pried up the moulding at the corner, enough to get the tapered tip of the gel glue bottle in to place a few drops. I gently pressed the trim down to spread it and then used more green tape on top to hold the trim down. Worked perfectly.

 

A common sense DIY on this is probably the way to go for sure. If nothing changes with the part/process applied by the dealer then you’ll just be right back where you started eventually (which equals complete waste of time). Might as well try and solve the issue in practical terms yourself for sure.

 

Not sure I would do that, seems you would have a heck of a time trying to remove it.

 

Yeah I know, but I want black instead of chrome anyway. But I just found out that all the black ones are Santini black and I have Narvik. So one day soon I will remove the trim, paint and then ????

 

Ah, okay, I see.

Santini black? Are you sure?

My 2024 R is black packed and I don’t think that is the case. Doesn’t Santini black have like a flake in it?

 

Well, I called the dealer and when he asked my color and I told him, he said that his system should it as Santini. Now he might have looked at just my year, so I will call him again and I very much hope that they have a Narvik black one.

 

I guess then, like most other things, you have to decide what to do considering your plans for the car. With superglue, it has been reported that acetone or isopropyl alcohol will dissolve or loosen it.
Since I have no plans to do anything with the trim on this car, it needs to stay put. There's also RV sealant/adhesive that could be used, to remove that requires either solvents and/or a heat gun.

 

It doesn't matter in this case, you're not gluing it to the car, the moulding is two-piece, and the portion it is separating from is bolted to the car in four locations at the base of the quarter window and I think fourteen locations across the top. The glue is only adhering to the plastic portion of the moulding used as a bolt-through mount. This is why it separates and lifts- the bottom portion that bolts to the car can't move, and the visible portion is only adhered with the 3M tape and flexes, and, with the heat and vibration and its natural inclination to straighten, separates. the parts aren't serviceable separately, they're a single item but have that manufacturing weakness. While superglue may work, I'm still going to stick to my recommendation of either procuring a two-part epoxy that is industrial strength (plastic trim repair/panel bond/etc.) or have a body shop perform the work using a similar material. That will be the strongest bond, it won't separate, and it isn't supposed to separate, anyway.

All the black moldings are the same basic, high-gloss and non-metallic black. They probably aren't a match for any factory paint code, since they're comparable in appearance to the piano black around the shifter. The only automotive black I've seen that comes close is Audi Brilliant black which is literally just binder and a single black mixing tint.

 

Yeah, on my car they remind me of piano black as 71Camero is saying. Exactly. I personally don’t think they would need to match exactly a black paint on the car to look good, just my opinion.

 

Agreed, think they're supposed to contrast just a bit regardless of black or bright.

I went the other way, I think bright looks better so swapped from black to aluminum, along with the grille trim/fender vents/a lot of interior trim.