I got warning in the message center - Stability control not available drive with care and emergency brake assist not available. Those messages went away when I turned the car off and restarted, but I noticed the door speakers now sound blown on the drivers door. Related? How do I remove the speaker covers on the drivers door without damaging them. Do I need to remove the door card?

The warning in the message center is probably a wiring issue. The front end has been removed twice in the last year. I’m thinking a wiring harness should have zigged when it zagged and is probably now frayed.

 

The battery should be the first suspect - make sure it’s fully charged. If the car still has the original battery, it’s living on borrowed time.

 

X2 on the battery. Low voltage could have 'corrupted' the settings.

Once you replace that, I'd verify that the sound system settings are where you want them for the best sound without distortion. (For 'vert owners SEARCHING, remember too that top-down settings need to be verified as well)


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To fully inspect the speakers & wiring, remove the door card. Here's the minute-long instructions

 

+3. Check the battery and clean the terminal clamps first before tearing into the car.

 

+4 battery and connections first and always.

 

Both batteries were just replaced. Terminals look new(clean). Car has only been reanimated for a week now after a year slumber. Batteries were replaced, although I was against replacing the secondary battery.

 

So, assure that the new battery is charged (30 - 45 minute daytime trip). Then disconnect the ground connection to the car body (in the boot/trunk).

15 minutes later, reconnect the battery, initialize the auto-up windows, and tell us how you get on.

 

These cars like fully charged batteries. New batteries are almost never, repeat, never fully charged at installation. The fact that the battery is new makes it even more likely that the battery charge is suspect, so first fully charge it, and then do the hard reset (disconnect, wait 30 seconds at least, reconnect).

 

I’ve driven the car for 600 miles on the new batteries. I just had the motor replaced, had the car back for a week. The batteries were replaced with the motor. I didn’t replace the batteries and now I am getting this error message

 

Any update on what might be causing this?

We had an interesting event driving last evening, at around 50mph, the car displayed an error that the traction control was unavailable and that we should drive with care. It jerked a little bit as that was happening, maybe the traction control coming off? The infotainment system went fully black. Gearbox started flashing in Drive and didn't want to seem to go. I've put her in neutral and then back into Drive and she started going.

We stopped and fully restarted the car. All seemed good, no errors and the infotainment system came back up. Drove fine afterwards, also this morning, no errors, no apparent issues with the battery (these cars have sensors for that right? Should alert if the charge is low).

Any thoughts? It wasn't a nice experience, especially that we just bought the car around a week ago.

 

Check your battery connections. I have had similar problems and figured out that my positive cable connection to the battery repeatedly gets loose. No matter how much I tighten it, it seems to loosen up about once a year and the first thing I notice is the head unit screen goes blank for a micro second and if your driving at night the headlights do the same thing. Good luck

 

Thanks a lot! I will check when I get home. You are talking about the battery in the trunk, right?

Now that you mention headlights, I did see them flash when it happened, so it might have been that it fully lost electricity for a second.

Do you know if the V6 S has two batteries? We have start-stop and I've heard somebody say that there is a second battery for that system. Sorry for the noob question, are they both located in the trunk?

 

Yes, the main battery in the trunk. What year is your car? I believe the second batteries were no longer installed as of the 2016 models (mine does not have one) and I believe the only function of the second battery when equipped was to operate the auto stop/start function.

 

Sorry Wrong thread I think?
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It's registered in 2015, but it should be the 2016 model, I checked the VIN and the 10th letter is G, which I understand stands for MY16.

 

Oh and BTW, another dead give away that its a bad battery connection issue is that your window auto up/down programming will stop working. Once you tighten the battery, you can reset that.

 

Not a great video for removal of the door card as all it shows is where the screws are. To remove the door card do not lift up but first grab the top rear with one hand and support the bottom middle with the other. Using your hand at the top pull the door card towards you bit by bit thus releasing all the clips. If you pull up the top metal clips stay on the door card and come off the door but you want them to release from the door card and stay on the car hence the pull towards you parallel with the ground. When you get close to unclipping the front beware that there might be a clip inside the tweeter housing so gently pull in that area whilst fully supporting the door card. Whilst supporting the door card you now have open/close cable to release plus wiring loom plug and socket. It all is really easy to do and done in a couple of minutes.

 

I had similar issues but it was caused by the negative ground in the trunk floor to battery negative terminal.

 

Do you remember what went wrong and how did you fix it?

 

I disconnected the ground from floorings and reconnected by tightening as much as possible. It fixed the problem. I also checked all negative grounds on car to make sure they were tight and no corrosion.