Hello All,

Looking for insight from anyone that knows the compatibility of 3.0 across models (XF etc..) and what additional work or accessory swap is needed for each.

I will be replacing the 3.0 in my 2016 F-Type 6MT RWD. Motor ingested water and bent a rod, all accessories are good. Looking for easiest compatible swap compared to cost.

Thanks in advance!

 

Hi there,

We are currently going through the same process of swapping an AJ126 into our F-Type v6 manual, glad we joined the club. From my understanding, all the AJ126 long blocks are similar other than the earlier cars do not have the variable oil pump connector which is found on the driver side of the block, near the harmonic balancing / crank pulley. If I understood correctly, model year 2016+ all had variable oil pump so a V6 from any of the JLR products should work. Confirm the connector is on the side of the block before purchasing anything. Used pricing is around $7k-$10k but thats ebay pricing, ideally you'd purchase something with a warranty just in case. Swap the pans around if they're different on other JLR products, check a rod bearing for piece of mind, and then send it.

Have you thought of possibly rebuilding the engine? As long as the crank and cylinder bore did not grenade themselves, in which case, it might be salvageable. Rods seem to be cheap enough and a used JLR crank looks to be about $1k

 

Thanks natguar! Very helpful, I appreciate the response and thanks for the pic, this plug is located behind the AC compressor correct?

As for compatibility, from what you've learned, does the type of drive matter... RWD/AWD, or is this when the pan needs to be swapped?
Is it a safe assumption to say the more the differences in models, the more accessories will need to be swapped? But as long as the variable oil pump exists, it is compatible with accessory swap?
Know of any other accessory differences on the 2016+ 3.0 that might create problems?
Also any insight on easiest way to pull motor.... from above, or below w/ cradle, detach tranny or keep attached?

I have not thought about a rebuild as replacement seems to be quicker / easier path. However, if the cost delta makes sense, I will certainly consider it. I would also need to find a good rebuild shop in MN to do the work... if anyone has a good recommendation. I could take on the rebuild, but being the first time with a JLR motor would want to make sure it's done right.

Much appreciated!

 

I think it's difficult getting parts from JLR for a rebuild, so that may be something to bear in mind.

 

Shameless plug but we're going through this right now and are documenting it on YouTube ( ). I'll have a new video up perhaps tonight of the engine coming out the bottom

but also WatchJRGo had a pretty quick video series on pulling out the AJ126 from the bottom:
Reading through the JLR workshop manual, they actually show the engine coming out the top but I have no idea how one would reach the header to cat bolts as the bolts are opposite of each other, so one head it pointed up and the other down. IF you have a lift handy, out the bottom with a Harbor Freight lift cart is the move.

Yes, you are correct about the plug for the oil pump. From my limited knowledge on JLR's AJ126 but reading the workshop, I believe all the engine blocks have the same mounts for accessories. Things do change a bit if you have the hydraulic power steering or electric power steering but it just how the accessory belt is routed and tensioners for it. As @scm mentioned, things can be tricky to source as JLR will not sell rod bearings, main bearings, or other pieces like that. I've searched around on Land Rover websites but gave up simply due to the situation with our AJ126 engine block. IF the engine was salvageable, we were going to let the engine builder take care of tolerancing new rod bearings and main bearings...all depends if you trust the shop and if it's worth it.

Time wise, a used engine or one from Tapa (https://text-a-part-auto-jaguar.business.site/?hl=en-US) could be the move as well. Depends on your budget and time. We're doing a used engine and will inspect the rod bearings before installing the engine.

 

If the engine assembly is being replaced, usually the 7th alpha numeric digit in the VIN can be used to determine the compatibility of the used engine.

The sump is different between the RWD and AWD.

 

It's easier to remove the engine/gearbox assembly from the bottom as this is how the vehicle is assembled at the factory.

Here is an AJ126 with its gearbox attached removed from the bottom of an X351 with the suspension cradle:




Finding a used engine from a reputable seller can be very challenging as there are some less than reputable people wanting cashier's cheques, etc.

 

NBCat,

All interchanges that I've seen reference the 8th digit to determine exact interchange, does the 7th also apply? Do you know of a website or source that has this search / interchange avaiable?

 

NBCat,

My 7th digit is F, and my 8th digit is C. Buying a wrecked donor is also a viable option if engines are bringing 7-10k as i will also get parts as well. However in this case the VIN is really the only thing i can go off of. Trying to determine if regardless of the accessories, with the 2016+ AJ126 long blocks being the same, if i will be able to make it work. Ideally an exact accessory match would be preferred, but probably not realistic.

 

The info I found has digits 6 & 7 as the Body Code, though none in my list end F (mine's 1A: "3 dr coupe", 5A is "2 dr convertible"). Digit 8 is the emission, C is "V8 emission L" (whatever that means). Mine is E: "V8 emission C (5.0 AJ133 V8 S/C Petrol)").

 

Yes, you are correct. I thought I had typed 8th not 7th.

Thank you for pointing it out!

 

My sixth and seventh is "6F" and my eighth "C" and it's a 2016, 6MT, 3.0, RWD. Searching for information on compatible motors across all JLR product lines and the amount of accessory swap (if any) based on each.

Any insight would be helpful. Thanks!

 

I would agree this looks like an easier way to remove. Looks like car was raised, verses the motor dropped in this pic.

 

Not shameless at all, I'll be following.

 

Hey,

Quick update! So an 2016 XJL engine has a different throttle body connector on it and the rear brackets (above the sound enhancer / coolant crossover) has different piece bolted to it. With all that said, you should be good with a 2016 XJL engine

 

God to know, this helps
Thanks natguar!

 

Swap in the V8 and have the first V8 6MT F Type

 

Make sure the gearbox can take it!

 

I have considered it, and also looked into it deep enough to learn the clutch may be the biggest challenge. The electronics are next but can be done.

Something to consider.

 

Yeah, definitely. Mines holding up well with a stage 2 VAP tune (450hp). I haven't done the stage 3 for concern of the transmission. I'm pretty sure the torque limit is like 350ft lb which is already matched by the stage 1.